I second Teditor's remarks. I have used ELO for years without trouble. probably because I use it the same way he does. Haven't stripped any Kato shells, so I can't comment on those.
Chances are you'll hear from a lot of people who swear by brake fluid. I have used that, too, but had more problems with it attacking the plastic.
I use ELO pretty well exclusively for stripping models, never use it on a Kato model, it certainly seems to react with the plastic they use.
I don't know about the shells you wish to strip, I have only ever had trouble with Kato and once with a Tyco Shark body that suffered minor crazing on the roof.
Biggest thing I find is to make sure and "NOT" soak the model, I place a small amount of ELO in a container, then I brush the ELO on with an old toothbrush, holding it over the container, allow it to sit for about a half hour, then brush off what will go with the toothbrush and water.
I feel this nuetralises the ELO so it doesn't attack the plastic.
After allowing the shell to dry somewhat, I repeat the exercise until I achieve the desired result. This may take a bit longer, but I feel it is a more controlled method than soaking the model in the ELO, you also use less ELO this way.
Make sure and wear protective gloves and eyewear and work in a well ventilated area, this is pretty potent stuff. There are some paints that it has difficulty with, but usually perseverance and patience will get the job done.
Teditor.
Teditor