Insulated vs. Electro-Frog with DCC

[Anonymous]

2 part question actually.

1, When utilizing DCC, is an insulated frog more or less desirable than "Insulfrog"?

2, Same as above, except in reversing loop or wye arrangment?

TXS, Rey.

[nfmisso]

See:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
http://www.dcctrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm

and most important:
http://www.digitalcommandcontrol.com/Peco_Track.htm

With Electrofrog you will have to cut a gap immediately past the frog on both rails that go through the frog, and jumper around it.

With Insulfrog you will not have to do anything.

For reverse loops, you need a seperate block, which should be entirely indepent of the turnout. Both rails have to be gapped on both ends of the reversing block.

[BR60103]

The consideration with Electrofrog and DCC is that both points are the same polarity and metal wheels that are slightly under gauge can touch the open point and the stock rail next to it and cause a short. On a DC layout you just give the loco a nudge and carry on (if it even came to a stop) while on a DCC layout it's "Who shut the system down?"
The electrofrog is good because it has rail all the way through.
You still need special wiring for reverse loops and wyes -- the same gaps will work with Insulfrog that you use for electro.

[Pennsy58]

I use insulfrog turnouts. Atlas and Peco. Have not had any problems even with wyes. Yes on reverse loops you need to isolate the power to the loop and wire in a reversing module.
The only problem I have read about is that the frog itself is dead so potentially an engine could loose power when moving slowly over the frog. Have not expirienced this problem myslef though. As a caution, any older engine I have I added power pickup from both trucks just in case.

[Anonymous]

I have installed over 40 Peco Insulfrog turnouts on my DCC layout. I have not had a single problem. They were very easy to install as I did not have to make any modifications to them prior to installation. I highly recommend them.

[Anonymous]

I see the issues with the Electro-frog now.

I'm certainly open to the insulfrog, however, I bought a variety of eletro-frog turnoughts last night for measurement (all my local shop 60 miles away had...) ((in a snow and ice storm at that!)). I sure like the look of the electro-frog!!!

So in my browsing today, I looked at a number of sites and it seems cutting a few rail gaps and putting in a few jumper wires are all that needs to be done.

Okay, so does anyone have a really easy diagram of where to gap and how to jumper??? I looked at Loys Toys, and, well, I'm embarrased to say that it's not as easy for me to understand as I had hoped it would be...[:I]

E-mail me if you have something and THANKS!

[BR60103]

The simplest direction is to put a gap in both rails at the frog and then run a feeder to the next rail. This will work, but is more work than you need to do.
If you have a series of turnouts going in one direction, you only need gaps at the end of the series. You need gaps between turnouts where the frogs point at each other. You need a gap if you have a turnout where there is a feed past the frog end, even if it is a long way away. (One turnout in an oval requires a gap.)
Options: you can have your sidings so that they go dead when you throw the switch against them or you can put a gap in and then feed the siding. If they are dead, your locos will lose power & lights & sound when you store them there. You may want to do this sometimes.
If you have a passing siding, I suggest putting gaps right by the switches and then powering the siding and mainline between them.
Gaps should be placed as close to the frog as possible so that you don't put metal wheeled cars over the gap.
(This should generate another 300 posts telling me my smokebox is full of ashes.)

[Anonymous]

I understand your pain. My dealer had a lost shipment, so I am missing 300 feet of N Scale Flex!

It cannot be overstated.... http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

Complete diagrams, and a definate wealth of information...