What to use for layout board/surface?

[Roadtrp]

I'm a complete beginner, having received my first 'N' equipment at Christmas. I don't have a spare room for my layout, but I do have a loft-office with a 4' x 8' ledge off to one side that is about 38" above the floor. I figure that will make a great spot for my layout, but of course don't want to build directly on top of the finished wallboard surface.

What should I use for my surface? I thought about laying foam directly on top of the ledge, but wasn't sure how I would deal with the wiring. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Not knowing how much access you have around the 4'x8' i'd suggest you think about making the layout in modules. Say 2 sections of 4'x4'. In that way you could prewire or even premake the entire layout.

Alternatively you could opt for an as-usually-constructed eye-level layout with storage below.

Randy

[Roadtrp]

Modular sounds like a great idea. My wife has no problem with me building in our seldom-used formal dining room. She just wants some other place for the layout to be when finished so she can use the dining room during the holidays.

I only have access to the ledge on one (8') side. On two sides I would need an 8' ladder, and the fourth side (4') is against an outside wall making it inaccessible.

Would you just leave the wires beneath the foam, or pu***hem up into the foam for a flush surface with the ledge? Where can you buy the type of foam needed -- would Home Depot stock it?

Thanks -- I need all the help I can get!

[Jetrock]

It might be advisable to have some way to get access to the underside of the layout without flipping the whole thing on its side. Another issue is accessibility to the back half of the layout. These are both Murphy's Law type issues--problems invariably occur in the parts of the layout that are hardest to reach. A simple wooden frame of 1/2 pine would be stiff enough to support the foam and leave two inches to run wiring, although it still doesn't solve the access problem.

If the layout is intended to be removable, one thing you might consider is setting it up like a gigantic drawer, with legs on the front corners, so it can be rolled out for underside access. Reaching the far side would still be a pain in the neck, unless the final layout is a C-shaped arrangement (essentially that 4x8 with a 2-foot deep chunk taken out of the middle of the side nearest you.)

Apparently some Home Depots have the right foam and others don't. For layout bases the white stuff is okay, and most Home Depots have those--but the pink or blue kind (better for scenery) is harder to find.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

Apparently some Home Depots have the right foam and others don't. For layout bases the white stuff is okay,

NOT! Use only the EXTRUDED foam, the compressed bead stuff is much weaker, besides the shedding issue. Use 2" thick (it is okay to laminate thinner pieces, use Liquid Nails for Projects double check that it is foam compatible) extruded foam for your base.

You can run the wires on top (in grooves if you want), and just put scenery over them. The C- shape layout is a good idea. Try to keep all the switches within reach so that you can use manual throws - cheaper and more reliable than powered. Sliding the layout out like a drawer is an excellent suggestion. Some outside corner trim on the edge bottom edge of the foam is sufficient to protect it while sliding, similar trim on your wall board will protect it, and then add some material on both sides of the layout so it can slide off sideways.

I recommend Peco turnouts because of thier reliable operation, and built in spring that holds the points to one side or the other.

Aleene's Tacky Glue (Wal-mart craft section) is good for securing roadbed and track, use Woodland Scenics track nails, and canned goods to clamp in place overnight, then remove both. Tacky glue will hold everything in place, and still is flexible. Do NOT glue the turnouts.

Have fun.