Wheel Sets and Trucks

[Anonymous]

I know this question is most likely a matter of opinion but now that my layout is closer to being able to actually run a train on it I am looking at the "hand-me-down" rolling stock that I got from a friend back in the mid-80's when I was doing MRRing at that time. The Trucks and Wheelsets are plastic and from what I read here on the forum plastic wheels should not be used as it causes the track to get dirty faster.

1. When I start replacing the plastic wheels with metal, would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the plastic trucks with metal?

2. If I replace the trucks Is there a big enough advantage to go ahead and spend the little extra while I am replacing and buy roller bearing type?

3. And last but not least which manufacter would be a good choice, Kadee or ??

[IRONROOSTER]

1. I run both plastic and metal trucks and don't see any difference in S scale. One advantage of metal is that they weight more and the weight is lower. This means you don't have to add as much weight, but I don't think it is worth buying new trucks just to have metal ones.
2. I'm not aware of any trucks that are actually rollerbearing like they are in the real thing, for the model it is just appearance. However, sprung and equalized trucks are better than rigid ones so those would be worth buying if rigid is what you have. When I was starting out in HO I found that they tracked better over poor track as well as through turnouts.
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Snake

I know this question is most likely a matter of opinion but now that my layout is closer to being able to actually run a train on it I am looking at the "hand-me-down" rolling stock that I got from a friend back in the mid-80's when I was doing MRRing at that time. The Trucks and Wheelsets are plastic and from what I read here on the forum plastic wheels should not be used as it causes the track to get dirty faster.

1. When I start replacing the plastic wheels with metal, would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the plastic trucks with metal?

2. If I replace the trucks Is there a big enough advantage to go ahead and spend the little extra while I am replacing and buy roller bearing type?

3. And last but not least which manufacter would be a good choice, Kadee or ??

1) I would recommend that you replace the plastic wheel (wheelsets) with metal wheels, but you don't necessarily have to have metal truck sideframes. Most sideframes are made from a plastic called delrin which is slightly oily and self lubricating. Metal sideframes would require occasional lubrication to reduce friction.

2) I am not aware of any model trucks that have real roller bearings. Model trucks are all (plain/friction and roller bearing) made pretty much the same way. Just different designs. You can certainly upgrade your rolling stock with simulated roller bearing trucks if you wish. Its your railroad after all. As for me, I have been installing Kato trucks on all of my rolling stock with a few exceptions. Those with unique sideframes such as archbar and T-section. For those I am installing metal wheelsets from Reboxx (www.reboxx.com). I chose the Kato trucks due to their excellent rolling characteristics. (BTW: Kato trucks have metal wheels). In fact, they may roll too well! The easier a car will roll, the more cars your loco will be able to pull. There are other manufacturers of wheelsets and trucks you can choose also. This is what I chose.

3) Kadee is good. So is Northwest Shortline, Life Like P2K wheelsets, Atlas trucks/wheels, etc. I have a little of everything on my line, but all are metal wheels. However,as stated above, I like the Kato trucks. The Kato roller bearing trucks have rotating bearing caps which you might like if you want roller bearing trucks.

If I were you, I'd try sampling the different products - get a set of each, install them on your cars and try it out. Make your own evaluation and go which what you like the best.

You might want to get a coupler height gauge if you change trucks or wheels. You may need to adjust the car height. Also be aware that wheels come in different diameters (33" is common), which will also change the coupler height and could effect how the trucks rotate under the car.

Dale B.

[nfmisso]

In addition to Dale's fine suggestions, and assuming HO;

Different manufacturers make thier axles different length, measure the ones you take out, and try to match as best you can. A digital caliper like this one is perfect for this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47256

You should also pick up one of these:
http://www.reboxx.com/Tools.htm
or
an HO TRUCK TUNER Item Number: 82838 from http://www.micromark.com/
or similar.

and a NMRA GAGE (HO SCALE).

I found that I really like the semi-scale .088" tread wheels on cars where the wheels are visible. RP25 are .110", and scale is .064" which will not work on commercial track.

Athearn offers some very nice trucks with metal wheels too.

As Dale alluded to, you need a coupler gage, eitthe a Kadee 205 http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
or Micro Marks' COUPLER GAUGE FOR HO STANDARD GAUGE Item Number: 82824-HO .

A 3" difference in wheel diameter is approximately equivalent to half a knuckle height.

Typically, 70 ton and lighter cars have 33" wheels, 100 ton 36", 125 ton 38", autoracks 28", multi-unit double stack often have smaller wheels at the ends, and larger wheels on the shared truck. Passenger cars are typically 36".

The ribbed back wheels were gone by the late fifties, the flat back wheels started showing up in the '20's.

[Anonymous]

The only thing I could add to the above posts is: Since you are replacing wheelsets and perhaps trucks also consider replacing couplers as needed. I suggest Kadee #5 unless you have some specific application which prevents their usage.

Doing all this at one time may seem time consuming but in reality it will save time and aggrivation in the long run.

Good Luck

Randy

[rogerhensley]

There is a good page on Wheels - Metal or Plastic on the NMRA web site in the Beginner Pages at:
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/

That and the other info there is designed to help with questions like this. :-)

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all for the great replies!!

As I read the replies I see that I left out some important information. My layout is HO circa early '50s. I plan to have both freight and passenger.

The "hand-me-downs" I got from a friend back in the 80's may or may not be right for my current layout. For instance; he gave me a Santa Fe GP38-2 which I know is not the right era. However, for now it makes a great "track checker" as I lay new track. I haven't looked into all the rolling stock but I know a couple of them I will be able to use.

Kadee advertises "self centering" Is this the same as "equalized trucks"?

So Kadee's advertising that states "roller bearings" doesn't mean they have roller bearings - hmmmm, they just tricked a newbie [B)].

I didn't realize that different mfr made different axle lengths. Rather than "match as best you can" I think I'll just replace trucks at the same time so I know what I've got and that they're correct. My wife got me a 6" digital caliper from harbor frieght for my birthday this past July. It is an invaluable tool.

As I go through the rolling stock to check "circa operating dates" and replace wheels/trucks I do plan to replace all couplers with Kadee #5's. I bought a few of the couplers and a height gauge (#205) a couple months ago. I plan to move couplers from truck mount to body mount - is this a good idea? I agree with Randy, it may be a bit more time consuming but while I am working on a piece I might as well do it all - wheels/trucks, couplers, weight, detail, weather, etc.

The links provided are great. - my wallet thanks you [:D]. I just purchased the Reboxx Exxact Socket tool, should be here in a week or so.

I am an NMRA member and bought a Standards Gage when I started laying track a few months back. Thanks Roger for the NMRA beginners page link. I guess I should have looked [:I].

[rogerhensley]

***
I plan to move couplers from truck mount to body mount - is this a good idea? I agree with Randy, it may be a bit more time consuming but while I am working on a piece I might as well do it all - wheels/trucks, couplers, weight, detail, weather, etc.
***

As far as I am concerned, it's an excellent idea. I converted a number of cars years ago. Of course many of them are now retired in favor of newer and better cars. :-) In the case of a few longer cars, I let the coupler pocket swivel to accomodate a few sharp curves on my ECI (East Central Indiana) railroad. http://cid.railfan.net/eci_new.html

***
I am an NMRA member and bought a Standards Gage when I started laying track a few months back. Thanks Roger for the NMRA beginners page link. I guess I should have looked .
***

Sometimes I think we hide some of the really neat stuff. We don't really, but we don't tell folks about it often enough. Oh. there is also an artice in the Beginner Pages about installing Kadee's.