Light leakage from my locomotives?

[Jetrock]

I am in the process of building several Bachmann GE switchers--a 70-tonner and a 44-tonner. The headlights are bulbs inside the shell, which transmit light through a clear plastic tube. These work very well but the bulb inside the shell shines so brightly that it shows through the plastic, even with a coat of black paint (inside the shell and outside!) It's not a problem when the layout is lit but I plan on doing night scenes (the prototype ran day and night) and I'd rather not have my locomotives glow in that manner. Any ideas for cutting down the light from inside?

[dharmon]

If there is enough room inside the shell, try and make a holder for the bulb from a styrene (Plastruct) or brass tube, so the bulb is inside. Heat dissipation might become an issue though.

Another idea is to make a shield on the inside of the shell from aluminum foil to reflect the light downward. But you may have light seepage from around the trucks.

Or put several thick coats of black paint on the inside........

these are some of the things I've tried in the past. Hope it helps.

[Anonymous]

Black Paint painted carefully inside the shell should work, It has for me, but be careful to not paint the cab windows, or headlights.

[Anonymous]

LED's maybe another option as they are available in different sizes and colors. personally a pale orange/sepia tone works well in the cab while super whites make good head and ditch lights.

[Anonymous]

take the aluminum foil , wrap it around the tube the light goes through as well as around the bulb. this should help direct the light to the right spot.

jay

[nfmisso]

JT;

If you want to keep the bulb(s), brass tubing, painted black that is a tight fit over the bulb, and epoxied to the light pipe is the way to go. The brass tube will dissipate the heat.

I like Fergie's suggestion of LEDs, to which I would add, with fiber optics.

[Jetrock]

I have already painted the interior of the nose with black paint.

A brass tube won't work--the lightbulb points upward (it already has an aluminum tube around its base) and a right-angled piece of Lucite directs the light out the headlamp. This Bachmann 44-tonner is already pretty small and there's really no room for anything inside the hood--the motor and trucks, and a PC board with the directional lighting circuitry and bulbs, fills it to the brim with stuff.

Epoxying brass tubing to the light pipe seems like it wouldn't be practical if I ever wanted to get the hood off--the light pipe is attached to the hood while the bulb is part of the chassis underneath. I may try the aluminum foil trick to see how that works, though...

[Trainnut484]

If it wouldn't cause too much heat, use electical tape to block the light. I've never had this problem so I can't make promises here.

Take care,

Russell

[michaelstevens]

Go for it Jetrock,

Remember that bright/shiny surfaces reflect light -- but dark colours absorb light.

If Aluminium foil doesn't work, try Aluminium, silver or white paint -- to seal the body shell (from the inside).

Enjoy & Happy Xmas !!

[Anonymous]

Put me in the LED camp. I use LEDs where possible when I scratch or bash anything and definately prefer them for flexability of mounting and servicing.

Randy

[dharmon]

I guess I should have mention switching to a LED. I was working on a project last light and trying to figure out lighting arrangements and realized that. Sorry, I guess I presumed that you wanted to keep the bulbs. LED make a great way to go.

[Jetrock]

I do want to keep the bulbs--I'd rather not make a lot of modifications to the locomotive as there isn't a lot of room and the Bachmann includes directional lighting on a PC board that I'd rather keep. I have plans to install LED headlights on some of my other rolling stock that is ripe for conversion. A little paint (or electrical tape) sounds a lot simpler than the rather extensive modifications that would be required by installing LED's.

[Anonymous]

I think that you would find that LED's are not that complicated. OK guys correct me if I'm wrong but all that is required is a resister and LED, remember this is directional.

[dharmon]

I got this this link from the Forums here. It might help.

http://www.mrollins.com/constant.html

[AntonioFP45]

The P2K E-units are notorious for this.

Simple solution:

Paint the inside of the nose Flat Black or Charcoal Gray. Go a step further and switch to L.E.D lights as they are a "Point Source" of light that don't flood their surrounding area with light. (though I'll still be using micro-bulbs for Gyra-Lights)

Cheers!