gfewsterAnother vote for the CMX track cleaning car. I use laquer thinner in it, have not tried much else. I also think that it helps to change the pad frequently. From CMX, the flannel for the cleaning pad is pricey. I took a sample of it to my local Foams and Fabric store, and got 3 yards or so of the same material for about $7
I just wash mine (pad) with Dawn in warm water and it comes out like new. I have about 350' of track (including sidings) and run the CMX about once a year going over it all twice, changing the pad in between.
I am glad my trainroom does not require all this special cleaning for the rails as I would find that quite discouraging.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I agree about the washing aspect. I use the John Allen Boxcar, and I wipe the pad with rag/alcohol. It's better to wipe it after the cleaning operation, not before: the pad gets sticky after wiping and creates a lot of drag if wet.
While cleaning the track is important, I've focussed more on ensuring that all my locos have maximum wheel powerpickup, including my steamers. My older steamers don't have power pickups on all the drivers, but most have full power pickup on the tender wheels. I added weight on some of the tenders to maximize the power pickup.
Simon
Yes they do. I made a masonite track cleaner for my N-scale RR, and I made a similar one for my Large Scale RR. I used them dry and wet. Wet, I used a bunch of different solvents before settling on an idea I borrowed from HO scale clubs. I just put a small pool of Dextron III automatic transmission fluid on the rails and then ran the car through it and around the layout a couple of times. Great stuff, AND cheap. A quart lasts a long long time.
I got to see the Gulliver's Gate exhibit a few years back, before they suspended operations. Each area represented a continent, and each continent had a loop of HO track with a freight train running, all DCC controlled, by the way.
Each train represented actual trains of their lands, but I noticed a couple of anomalies. I kept seeing Rio Grande and Canadian National boxcars everywhere on these trains, South America, Europe, Asia and so on. I resolved to ask why. It took a while, but I finally got to talk with their Train Guy. That was a great opportunity, as he was thrilled to have another model railroader to show around "his" layout, and we spent quite a bit of time.
As for those boxcars? After he told me, I immediately recognized them as standard Walthers track cleaning cars. They hadn't gotten around to repainting them yet. But, this was their chosen system for keeping their track clean. With a cleaning car running all the time on every loop, they had good success.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
what happens to the 'masonite pad' on turnout frogs?
Does anyone still use Bright Boy or the Woodland Scenics product?I've had some luck using Wahl's oil but I'm concerned it leaves a dust-collecting fim on the rails.
Opinions welcome.
Dorassoc1what happens to the 'masonite pad' on turnout frogs?
The masonite pad is quite flat, so is intended to float over frogs, points, crossings, bridge guardrails. etc. It is fine if there are no vertical protrusions. My track being slightly imperfect, I just put a very slight bevel at the front & back edges, to keep a square edge from catching.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Does anyone still use Bright Boy or the Woodland Scenics product?
I have not tried the Woodland Scenics product, but I believe some on here have and liked it. It looks as if it would do roughly the same as the pre-burnish progressive-grit reshaping that 'gleaming' does, but I would question just a bit that it only works longitudinally, in the limited spaces molded in the blocks, and perhaps needs more consistent pressure than 'elbow grease' via the handle would provide -- I would gin up some sort of weight system.
I've had some luck using Wahl's oil but I'm concerned it leaves a dust-collecting film on the rails.
Any of the 'top-of-rail' treatments should work best on previously-cleaned, and ideally 'gleamed' rail, as they depend somewhat on an absence of pitting or other potential cause of microarcing. The film is not 'conductive' in its composition but it is thin enough not to impede track current; it may also suspend any 'burned' oil from arc plasma that does occur. I am tempted to say you should use Masonite cleaning every so often followed by re-establishing the thin clipper oil if you want to 'top-dress' ... but I would shape and clean the railhead before applying the oil, and I would carefully watch for buildup on your wheels and any tendency to get under or swell traction tires. (I note Woodland Scenics has a product for wheel cleaning that is 'powered' for locomotives -- who has had experience with it?)[/quote]
I have a train of three track cleaning cars I use in long tunnels.
Walthers boxcar with abrasive pad under it. CMX car with lacquer thinner in it. Centerline car.
For track that is within reach, I use lacquer thinner on a cloth rag. and I sue a bight boy track cleaner.
I include the Walthers boxcar in the consist of regular freight trains on the mainline, and I rarely need to clean the mainline tracks with anything else.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
As Mr. B said, regulation of the drip rate is important with the CMX car, especially so when using lacquer thinner, though with repeated passes the surface of plastic rerailers may suffer some degree of crazing regardless.
Regards, Peter
I find that the "John Allen" technique of a freight car with a masonite pad works quite well for my needs. I have two boxcars that I modified for this task, and I plan to make a few more. (For different eras) The key is to make sure that the rough side of the masonite makes contact with the rails. There's even an article on building them in the "How To" section under "Tips & Projects".