I picked up a Timberline wood kit of a small shed, and I am wondering what glue to use - Duco? White glue? Flour and water? etc. As a kid I used Ambroid cement, but I haven't seen any of that stuff around for a while. Suggestions would be approciated. Thanks
for wood i used tight bond .
Lately, I have been using Titebond Original for wood kits.
Paul
Wood glue?
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
A thin layer of Titebond Wood Glue is what I use.
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-Kevin
Living the dream.
I use yellow wood glue.
Greg Shindledecker Modeling the =WM= Thomas Sub in the mid-70s
Titebond seems to be thepeoples choice; thanks
CA for immediate bonds, no need to wait.
CA glue became the glue of choice in model airplane construction, for these reasons. With the wood held in position, the thin CA quickly wicks into the wood across the gap between pieces.
one problem is controlling the amount of glue, you'll need less than a drop. There are glue applicator tips for this reason.
to gain experience, try using CA on internal structures.
but if you plan on staining (e.g. indian ink), you need to stain the wood before you glue them.
if not CA, i agree with the others using a carpenters glue. I use tightbond.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
SeeYou190 A thin layer of Titebond Wood Glue is what I use.. -Kevin
A thin layer of Titebond Wood Glue is what I use..
Rich
Alton Junction
I have had excellent results with Northeastern Flamingo Glue. Sets in 5 minutes drys shortly after. Extremely strong. I use it on anything wood and mat board together.
This back porch was built with Northeastern strip scale wood and their glue: Ca was used for the styrene parts:
My scratch built overpass parts consisting of illustration board and white pine wood was put together with the Northeastern glue:
It was also built to be removeable.
These bridge pier bumpers made out of wood dowels was also held together with Northeastern wood glue. I like it mainly because it is fast and very strong:
The bumpers were made to protect the bridge main piers from damage:
Take Care!
Frank
zstripeCa was used for the styrene parts:
why not use MEK or a MEK based glue for styrene.
gregc zstripe Ca was used for the styrene parts: why not use MEK or a MEK based glue for styrene.
zstripe Ca was used for the styrene parts:
Simply because it had to be glued to the rest of the wood porch......unfortunately, MEK does not work on wood. I used Zap A Gap Medium CA.
If You click on the pic'(it will give a larger view) you'll see the green floor, white railing and Grey stairs are styrene on the porch.
For wood-to-wood bonds, I use the Poly Vinyl Acetate (PVA) glues, Elmers, Titebond, white or yellow. Used on a long grain to long grain joint they can give a bond stronger than the original wood. For model work, the white is about as good as the yellow carpenter's versions like Titebond. They dry enough to handle in maybe 20 minutes, but it takes overnight to reach full strength. They need to be clamped, but for joints requiring real strength, say gluing the end blocks to the roof and floor of rolling stock, they do a fine job.
For attaching trim pieces and other joints that don't get much stress, cellulose cement, Duco, Ambroid, and others, works well and dries in minutes,
I haven't used CA for wood modeling, but CA sticks to nearly anything, and dries in flash.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I've been using Titebond and Northeastern Flamingo for years with great success.
Wayne
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
Twenty years ago I assembled La Belle's O scale wooden box car kits with white glue.
An accident occurred in the task of sticking an exterior thin plate to the surface of the thick coreboard. After applying the bond to the thin plate and pressing it on the core, after a while, the edge of the thin plate warped and peeled off. There was also a phenomenon in which the boards on both sides pushed together and bounced up in the part where they were stuck. Thin wood boards absorb moisture and stretch. So I used Wood-CA only for this work.
I have always used Goo, now marketed by Walthers. I love the fudge factor, meaning that what you attached may be relocated or removed later on. It can be diluted with lacquer thinner and applied with a tooth pick, or with practice...just use tube.
It also works quite well as a contact glue.....just glue one side, attach to other, remove and reattach 30 seconds later for a firm bond. It still may be adusted later on. Goo is available in most hobby shops. Years back just after Walthers took over Goo from Hobsco, I for the fun of it squeezed both tubes ...Hobsco and the new Walthers on a piece af paper......Guess which tube had more.
Howard, yes I used Hobsco then Goo. Then dad introduced me to contact cement, this was way back, (I think trains were still in developement), anyway I used that for years, then model glue, then CA and somehow I forgot about contact cement until Dr. Wayne mentioned it again not to long ago. So off I went and found it at one of the big box stores.
I used it to make my home made telephone poles. What I like about it is the almost instant stick and adhesion you get with contact cement and it sets up fairly quickly. I use it for a lots things, even placing the diaphragms on my brass cars.
Robert Sylvester
Newberry-Columbia Line, SC
I build lots of models for the layout with wood.
One thing to keep in mind is that white glue can be wetted after it is dry and it will soften. A part can be repositioned or removed easily. Not true with yellow wood glue. It is water proof.
Yellow glue grabs better than white glue. White glue dries with a Matt finish while many yellow glues dry with a shiny finish (moral here is to be neat with the yellow glue).
Aileen's has good initial grab and will remain slightly flexible when dry - a nice feature in certain circumstances. I find it dries out very quickly in my glue cup.
I use CA for everything but rarely for wood to wood as I like to have some time move items or to place them. CA can seep onto places it shouldn't and glue items to my work surface - making them difficult to remove. This makes it problematic when freehanding on glass over a line drawing or when gluing in fixtures.
I usually use yellow glue but one of the best builders I know uses white glue for all of his numerous wood models.
Too much from me,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
I build a lot of laser kit in wood for my N scale layout.
If wood glue are great, the drying time is too long for me.
I use a lot of CA gel to build the model and accelerator if needed.
Gel because you have time to adjust the small pieces together.
I also use regular CA because it goes in any spot quiet easily.
The bond between wood and CA is extremly strong.
I often mix plastic parts with wood parts and CA again do the job.
I use a professionnal rate CA gel and glue made by Loctite.
As often mentionned wood kit are time consumming but the use of CA allow you to build quiet quickly a wood craftsman kit.
Well know modelers Dave Frary and Georges Sellios mentionned both the major use of CA in their wood kit construction.
And a tips for the self adhesive window often offered in modern laser kit, I put them in place with the self adhesive , but I retouch the whole assembly when in place with diluted matte medium with a fine brush; the matte flow between all the self adhesive parts ( tiny in N scale) and the bond is extremly strong on wood and invisible.
These N scale models are all CA bonded and use the matte for the frame of the windows frame.
These models where all glued with CA; the big blue company is now nearly ten years old.
I use Pace gel CA. Started using in many years ago (20+) and found it has held up well over the years. Had a mostly built stamp mill and it was on a top shelf, we had a 4 leged guest apear which knocked it to the floor from about 8 ft' up, it just bounced.