zstripe I air-brushed the primer on at 35psi and it took exactly 3oz for two coats. Lot of nook & cranny's to get at, but the air-brush worked like a charm.......not sure what a rattle can would do, mainly because it would be hard to get into the inside. I think also that a brush would be near impossible, unless you want to spend all week painting it.......
I air-brushed the primer on at 35psi and it took exactly 3oz for two coats. Lot of nook & cranny's to get at, but the air-brush worked like a charm.......not sure what a rattle can would do, mainly because it would be hard to get into the inside. I think also that a brush would be near impossible, unless you want to spend all week painting it.......
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain how is the airbrush able to?
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks, Bear. That makes sense. Frank has an advantage over us mere mortals, since he is an old hand at spray painting with years of experience. As I did with my two bascule bridges, I plan to paint this lift bridge by hand with a brush.
richhotrain I plan to paint this lift bridge by hand with a brush. Rich
Richie,
You may not be able to do that. Acrylic is very shiny (like glass) on both sides of it. Very slippery and I don't know if the paint will even grab. Sanding or scuffing the whole bridge inside and out, would be a nightmare. Some more aggresive solvent paints like Floquil/Dope would probably work, but they are gone. After You start taking parts from the sheets or even before, do many test's with some paint before jumping in. Lacquer based paints woud be My first choice.
Just to add to Bear's post.....with an air-brush, you can reach into the nook & crannies because the tip is close to 2 inches away from the base. Sort of like having a added tip that you would use on a WD40 solvent spray can. But with an air-brush you can adjust the paint flow so big globs of paint don't come out, you can't do that with a rattle can.
Take Care!
Frank
Frank, thanks for those explanations.
I hadn't thought about the paint adherance problem with acrylic.
I now see what you are saying about airbrush versus rattle can.
Once I assemble the bridge, I will drop by your place so that you can airbrush it for me.
zstripe...Acrylic is very shiny (like glass) on both sides of it. Very slippery and I don't know if the paint will even grab. Sanding or scuffing the whole bridge inside and out, would be a nightmare. Some more aggresive solvent paints like Floquil/Dope would probably work, but they are gone....
I'm not familiar with all of the properties of acrylic, but could you simply airbrush the entire bridge using lacquer thinner or MEK, just to change the shiny finish to something more conducive to paint adherence?
Wayne
Wayne,
That is basically what I did with the primer I used, but I have never used a brush with it. It is a heavy bodied primer that can be thinnned to alot of consistancy's depending on use. One quart would make a gallon the way I mix it, with lacquer thinner. I use this same primer on all My painting projects regardless of the top coat. Tamiya acrylic's, Model Master enamel, ScalecoatII, Floquil, Vellejo and many others. I have not found a top coat paint yet that I could not use it with. It is a fast dry primer so using it with a brush might be problematic. It is an Industrial/Automotive Professional use only primer:
I don't believe it comes in spray cans.......never asked for it that way.
Edit: I used that primer on the ABS plastic body for this RC 1/14 scale truck I redid for one of My Son's. The blue paint is Model Master enamel....two full coats, followed by three coats of Model Master Arctic Blue Metallic:
Wow, with many new posters and threads, you can really get to the bottom of the page fast......
Anyway, I managed to get the other basic tower done, primered the other and will more than likely prime this one tomorrow. I have it temporarily set up on a couple of pieces of foam. Next comes all the detail pully's etc. for the top of the towers:
The way it sits right now, it is 28.75'' long.
Frank, that bridge construction is looking mighty good. I always love the point in the project where the structure you are building finally begins to take shape.
Thanks for Your comments Rich.....
Working on the tower hoist platforms. They tell you in the instructions that the platforms, due to the engraving of the detail, that they made, will be a little curled and that by gluing the surrounding sides should correct the curl. Well rather than taking a chance that it might not work, I built a jig out of 1x2'' pine and 5/16'' square pine, left over from other projects. That worked perfect and took the curl out. Make sure that you sand all mating edges, for strength is imperative in keeping them square, for they fit very snugly over the existing tower. Also be careful, do not over glue so it seeps out onto the detail on the rivet detail on the outer edges and floor. I used waxed paper on the jig before adding the platform to set up the c-clamps. Also the parts that are glued to the platform go around the perimeter. They do not say that, but I had to look with a magnifier to see in the diagrams:
I also found that when putting the wheels together that they sy to use 7 pieces, 4 full wheels and 3 notched wheels, Well when you put them all together there is a gap in the braces, that is not shown on the instructions, they all look flush to the side braces so I added a full wheel to the outside where it sits inbetween the braces and that looks a lot better and the holes for the cables line up perfect. My kit came with a whole full extra sheet of extra parts for the platforms, railings, etc. I assembled the wheels and one brace to one completed wheelset on each side. It is easier to paint that way. The railings I glued from underneatth, less chance of getting unwanted glue on the top face:
Also when glueing the wheels together, I stacked them on top of one another in their correct order using a brass 1/16'' square tube into the square holes for alignment.......leftover from other projects.
Will be finishing them today and painting.
Frank, check your PMs.
Still plugging.......I'm finishing up the top of the towers with the wheels and adding one to the outside of the stack. I had to primer and paint them in order to make sure I get at the bottom of the wheels before assembling...easier to get at that way. The adhesive will still weld the painted surfaces, if you lightly sand the area, you can touch them up with a final spray of the color used.......I am using Tamiya Acrylic flat black, which works great with the primer
Those top of the towers when made correctly, fit right over the existing tower, very tightly.
Also am working on at the same time the counter weights and piers. After they are assembled, they must be sanded to eliminate any seams that will show. I am using a 3M hard rubber sanding block with the air-file paper #80 grit, so it leaves a rough finish, like concrete would. After sanding I give it a light coat of primer that will show any open seams, which I will fill with Squadron body putty, sand and reprimer.
If You look at the large pier that is sitting on the block of wood on the left, you shold be able to see how shiny the acrylic is.......
Back to sanding.........
zstripe Those top of the towers when made correctly, fit right over the existing tower, very tightly.
I admire your patience and attention to detail, with your sanding and putty-filling efforts. This structure ought to be museum quality when you are finished.
Rich, Thanks.......I keep forgetting to say that...''hoist platform''.
Also take a look at the post again......I also forgot to add a photo of the sanding block I am using.......another left over tool from My body repair days....worth it's weight in gold.
Frank,
You mentioned in the N scale version of this discussion , that you were planning on using two motors to lift the bridge. They will have to be matched closely, so as not to cock the bridge as it moves.
Solution one: use one motor, with the cables going down through the bottom of the towers and over to a single take-up reel. This can only work if a cable can cross the "aisle".
Solution two (maybe): use synchronous motors. They all turn at exactly the same speed, so they're automatically matched. The classic 1 RPM clock motor is an example.
It strikes me that you'll also have to make all the other wind-up elements exactly matching. In particular the diameter of the take-up reels. And the cables can't (I think) wind on top of each other when they lay up onto those reels, either.
Ed
Ed,
I appreciate Your Advice. Using two motors will eliminate any cables at the top or underneath the bridge. The cables will more than likely have to wrap around wheels next to one another at least 3times, the bridge only has to raise 3-1/2'' when raising or lowering and there is room for that. They will be mounted to the top of the wheels, when motor turns the wheels turn clockwise, the counterweight that rides inside the tower structure goes down, while at the same time the same cables, which are already tawnt will lift the bridge, if the wheels have a v-groove in them. Unlike a Bascule bridge where the counterweight is roughly 7 times heavier than the bridge, the Vertical lift bridge counterweights are equal to the weight of the bridge.....a balance issue is what is needed. I say N-scale motors really for the size and comparison........not sure what I will use yet. I run DC on My layout and can run 6 mued DC Athearn BB SD40-2'S, along with Kato and many others together and not a hint of them not starting and stopping at any noticeable voltage varience. That's a relatively easy fix any way....just slow the fast one down with some resistance. All My thoughts are on the simple way....won't actually know until I test My theory....past experience tells Me, It will work.....how reliable it will be, remains to be seen.
I do have 4yrs. of Machine Design so I'm not really in the dark......but at My age I'm a little slow at jumping into new things, involving time.......Like spending too much time at the PC.....LOL.
I managed to get the hoist platforms completed and painted, making sure they fit the towers...perfect fit. Then on to building the counterweights and piers, which are all six sided cubes. Once the glue cures, I sand them all down with #80 grit sandpaper and then prime them. The primer will show any seams and any spots of the notch and slot construction. I then use Squadron white putty to fill any inperfections. Sand again, then prime........I'm pretty good at just doing it once. If satisfied, I spray with it's color. I chose Tamiya Flat Buff.......It has more of a beige color to it.......I prefer that look/color for aged concrete. When I complete them all, I will be weathering them with Vallejo Powder pigments. I brush and use cotton swabs for that, wet and dry. Most times, I do not need any sealer for that.
I also will finish primering the other tower. Will have to mix some more today. Ran out last night. I have already used 9oz's of primer.
This scratch built stone display wall was weathered with Vallejo pigments:
Onward and upward, Frank!
richhotrain Onward and upward, Frank! Rich
I believe that should be upward and downward. And upward. And downward. And upward. And downward. And...........
I have a though on acrylic paint being used on slick objects. Recently encountered this very same problem on my latest build. Acrylic paint wouldn't stick on certain slick styrene parts.
Try using a lite coat of Clear Matte Finish before airbrushing . Acrylic paint sticks no problem. Then you can permanently seal after acrylic paint with another coat of Clear Matte.
The clear matte also takes weathering very well.
Patrick
Fear an Ignorant Man more than a Lion- Turkish proverb
Modeling an ficticious HO scale intergrated Scrap Yard & Steel Mill Melt Shop.
Southland Industrial Railway or S.I.R for short. Enterchanging with Norfolk Southern.
Patrick,
With the primer I am using there is no problem at all with the surfaces being shiny and I can use any type of paint for a top coat. With the paint that I am using Tamiya military colors are dead flat.....no need for anything else. You don't even need any coat over it to seal. It does it on it's own.......being using that paint for many, many yrs. without a problem. Not so great when brushing, but fantastic air brushed. The primer is lacquer based:
Gotcha . I was using model master paint. Man,that stuff has a hard time sticking or it's me mucking it up.
Like I stated in My post above, that same primer I use for all My painting. In the 1/14 RC truck I redid, I used Model Master enamel for a top coat, Sky Blue & Arctic Blue Metallic......the light does not do the color justice in the photo. The 1/16 Metal flake pin striping......believe it or not, are two single pieces. When I was done striping it, I let it sit in the hot sun for a couple hours, changing the position around frequently, baking it on........worked great!
Thank you Frank for the painting info. BTW,that's is a great job on the tractor. I have a soft spot for old Autocar's and DM Mack's myself.
Still plugging......Both towers/piers are just about finished......but..I decided to add more detail to the hoist platforms and center of the main span so I did not paint that yet, other than primer. The hoist platforms will have a small shack that will house electric motors and gears for the wheels, which will be lighted with Pico chips.....smaller than the head of a pin. The main span will have a control shack in the center also lighted with interior. Walkways and caged ladders. I have some of the parts needed, but had to order a few things:
Looking great Frank! I had to go back and go through the thread, and do some catching up.
All the extra little details your going to add will make it come to life.
Mike.
My You Tube
zstripe Still plugging......Both towers/piers are just about finished......but..I decided to add more detail to the hoist platforms and center of the main span so I did not paint that yet, other than primer. The hoist platforms will have a small shack that will house electric motors and gears for the wheels, which will be lighted with Pico chips.....smaller than the head of a pin. The main span will have a control shack in the center also lighted with interior. Walkways and caged ladders. I have some of the parts needed, but had to order a few things
Still plugging......Both towers/piers are just about finished......but..I decided to add more detail to the hoist platforms and center of the main span so I did not paint that yet, other than primer. The hoist platforms will have a small shack that will house electric motors and gears for the wheels, which will be lighted with Pico chips.....smaller than the head of a pin. The main span will have a control shack in the center also lighted with interior. Walkways and caged ladders. I have some of the parts needed, but had to order a few things
Can't wait to see the control shack on top of the main span. Pretty prototypical and a nice addition. Are you scratchbuilding the shack?
richhotrainCan't wait to see the control shack on top of the main span. Pretty prototypical and a nice addition. Are you scratchbuilding the shack? Rich
Rich,
Yes. I'll be using corrugated siding, for the platforms and the main span. Mainspan shack will be similar to the photo, but half the size, without the large platform railing. Just a smaller one:
I think it will give the bridge a little more realism.
Also Mike Thanks for Your comments......I was wondering where You were hiding.
It's a little hard to see in the photo, but the scratch built Scherzer rolling lift bridge has two electric motors gears etc. connected to the double truss, which has a cog rail on the bottom of it so the truss pulls the bridge towards it. It doesn't really lift it, but looks like it will.......My intention....You can see the green back half of one under the platform by the stairs, they are side by side.
Frank, where are you? It's been 11 days now since we last heard from you. Surely, you are done or close to it.