I found a great way to mask an area where tape won't work

[mondotrains]

Hi Guys,
I wanted to share a new approach I've discovered. I had a building which already had some windows installed that had been painted, and "glass" placed behind the window frames. I wanted to spray the building another color but didn't want to remove the windows for fear of breaking them. So, I needed to mask them off first. I tried cutting pieces of masking tape to fit inside the window frame but that proved almost impossible.

I decided to cover the windows with Tacky Glue (made by Alene's). It is available in craft stores and is very inexpensive. I realized that Tacky Glue does not attack plastic and can easily be pulled off later. I simply squeezed the bottle and covered the whole window with a thin layer right up to the edges. I used a toothpick to spread the glue around. I then let it dry thoroughly (till the next day). Then I sprayed the walls with my new color and when the spray paint had dried I took a needle-nosed tweezers and pulled off the dry Tacky Glue. It worked great.

I think I've discovered a great way to mask off areas where tape is a problem, especially because the Tacky Glue is fluid and can fill in areas that are irregular.

Hope some of you guys can benefit from this approach.

Mondo

[AntonioFP45]

Impressive!

I recently acquired another Bachmann HO Metroliner shell off of E-Bay. Removing the windows is a nightmare! On the other 4 cars I winded up having to "break them" off in pieces. In the process I slightly damaged the body on one of the metroliners.

I've decided to keep the windows intact on this new unit, but I'm going to repaint it in Penn Central. (Metalizing Method with the Alclad ).

Your method sounds like it could fit the job in this case.

Thanks!

[mondotrains]

Hi Antonio,
I'm glad you're going to try my idea. Having been a high school teacher back in the 1970's for a short time, I like sharing information. Don't be afraid of using the Tacky Glue...it looks a little scary putting all that white stuff, especially "glue", over the windows but it dries clear and believe me, it pulls right off.

Please let me know how it works out.
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Impressive!

I recently acquired another Bachmann HO Metroliner shell off of E-Bay. Removing the windows is a nightmare! On the other 4 cars I winded up having to "break them" off in pieces. In the process I slightly damaged the body on one of the metroliners.

I've decided to keep the windows intact on this new unit, but I'm going to repaint it in Penn Central. (Metalizing Method with the Alclad ).

Your method sounds like it could fit the job in this case.

Thanks!

[lupo]

other method: using water based paint you could also try rubbercement, it can be dilluted with whitespirit and and apllied with a small paintbrush,
worked fine as masking material on papers when airbrushing.

[Anonymous]

Before I even opened this thread, my first thought was "use white glue?" We must think alike - scary, eh? LOL While I use the Aileen's stuff (and just used some last night for a Campbell's kit I'm working on) I'll bet the Elmer's or generic white glue would work just as well and might even be easier to remove than the supe tacky stuff. I don't know this for a fact, though, because I haven't tried it yet. Thanks for this excellent tip and the ideas it caused!

Enjoy the hobby,
Greg

[rexhea]

Thanks mondotrains.
I want to change the color of a couple of passenger cars, but haven't figured a good way to protect the windows. I thought about some kind of grease, but that my be a problem getting off. I believe your idea would be much better.
REX

[DSchmitt]

I've never used it, but this product has been arund awhile.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/699810.asp

[mondotrains]

Hi Greg,
Trust me....use the Ailene's Tacky Glue rather than Elmers because Elmers is too runny. The Ailene's is very thick and will stay where you place it. As with all the suggestions on this forum....don't take my word for it.....try a little Ailene's on one small window and prove it to yourself. Again, the Tacky Glue will pull off easily without damaging your models.

Happy railroading.
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by SWchief

Before I even opened this thread, my first thought was "use white glue?" We must think alike - scary, eh? LOL While I use the Aileen's stuff (and just used some last night for a Campbell's kit I'm working on) I'll bet the Elmer's or generic white glue would work just as well and might even be easier to remove than the supe tacky stuff. I don't know this for a fact, though, because I haven't tried it yet. Thanks for this excellent tip and the ideas it caused!

Enjoy the hobby,
Greg

[chutton01]

My question is - how sharp are the resulting edges?
I can spread glue around with the best of them, but even the best of them tend to get an erose, ragged glue-edge.
Have you tried to obtain a sharp edge by trimming the glue (after it dries) with a sharp X-acto knife (using, say, the window frame as a cutting guide). If so, how does it look, and does it cut easily?
I bring this up because I have a bottle of 'professional' masking liquid (i.e. designed specifically for masking patterns on model planes and cars, and yes, trains), and even with brand new blades this stuff tears and pulls, giving me a useless, erose, ragged edge. Crud!

[mondotrains]

QUOTE: Originally posted by chutton01

My question is - how sharp are the resulting edges?
I can spread glue around with the best of them, but even the best of them tend to get an erose, ragged glue-edge.
Have you tried to obtain a sharp edge by trimming the glue (after it dries) with a sharp X-acto knife (using, say, the window frame as a cutting guide). If so, how does it look, and does it cut easily?
I bring this up because I have a bottle of 'professional' masking liquid (i.e. designed specifically for masking patterns on model planes and cars, and yes, trains), and even with brand new blades this stuff tears and pulls, giving me a useless, erose, ragged edge. Crud!

I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue.

Thanks,
Mondo

[DSchmitt]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue.

Thanks,
Mondo

It works and it's probably less expensive too.

[chutton01]

QUOTE: Originally posted by DSchmitt

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue.

Thanks,
Mondo

It works and it's probably less expensive too.

Do you mean the Tacky Glue cuts nicely with a knife, and doesn't snag or rip like the masking solution (which is NOT supposed to snag, but does anyway even with a new blade)? If so I'll head out to Michael's Crafts tomorrow, but I rather not get burned again (the first time being the masking solution)

[DSchmitt]

QUOTE: Originally posted by chutton01

QUOTE: Originally posted by DSchmitt

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue.

Thanks,
Mondo

It works and it's probably less expensive too.

Do you mean the Tacky Glue cuts nicely with a knife, and doesn't snag or rip like the masking solution (which is NOT supposed to snag, but does anyway even with a new blade)? If so I'll head out to Michael's Crafts tomorrow, but I rather not get burned again (the first time being the masking solution)

I should of said "It works for you and it's probably less expensive too" I don't know if it can be cut and wether or not it snags.