To Weather

[Roadtrp]

You're right... I was probably thinking of heavy weathering. What triggered my little rant was looking at the Franklin & South Manchester layout in the current MR magazine.

The layout is BREATHTAKING, and if I ever have 1/2 of 1% of the skill that George Sellios has, I will be a happy man indeed. But absolutely EVERYTHING in that layout looked like it was coated with grime. I just couldn't believe that there wasn't one clean building or automobile or anything in the towns he was modeling. I guess I felt that even when you are modeling the 30's & 40's, SOMETHING must have looked good back then. [:)]

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Roadtrp

You're right... I was probably thinking of heavy weathering. What triggered my little rant was looking at the Franklin & South Manchester layout in the current MR magazine.

The layout is BREATHTAKING, and if I ever have 1/2 of 1% of the skill that George Sellios has, I will be a happy man indeed. But absolutely EVERYTHING in that layout looked like it was coated with grime. I just couldn't believe that there wasn't one clean building or automobile or anything in the towns he was modeling. I guess I felt that even when you are modeling the 30's & 40's, SOMETHING must have looked good back then. [:)]

Actually, most things looked fairly new during the depression. Paint was cheap, labor was cheaper, and there were whole armies of otherwise unemployed men doing nothing but street sweeping. The idea that the Depression looked "depressing" is modeler's license. The reality is that people during that time still took pride in appearances, and did everything they could to make things look nice. Remember, whitewash is nothing but lime and water (or turpentine), which is about as cheap a paint as you can get. Look for period photos of the 1930s in their proper context (was it taken to evoke a mood, or was it just a shot of the everyday?) and you'll soon see that the 1930s wasn't nearly as dirty and rundown as everyone thinks (I'll suggest that the 1970s looked worse).

When I think of teh F&SM or G&D, two layouts based on the Depression era, I think of great modeling and artictic skill, but pretty poor representation of reality.

[AggroJones]

Another weathering technique I use is a wash containing distilled water, various pastel chalks, and matte medium. I utilize a wide sable bru***o stroke it up and around some steam locomtive boilers. The matte medium helps thin the water and supends the chalk in position.

[Budliner]

I get the sensation of a windy brease over the 2-10-10-2 oOOOOO OOOOOo

aggro is the man

:my first weathering attempts
B -

[Casey Feedwater]

There have been several mentions in this thread about using alcohol and Dullcote. Some folks on other forums have advised against using the two together because of the reaction that occurs between the alcohol and Dullcote. I don't think that's necessarily sound advice, because the resulting white "powder" appearance can be useful at times.

For example, it can be used to simulate hard water deposits (lime and scale) on equipment (or even plumbing) that would typically be used in regions having hard water.

Here are some examples of what I'm talking about. These are progress photos of a "backwoods" water tank car I built a couple of years ago. I used plain alcohol and Dullcote to create the appearance of hard water deposits.

[Casey Feedwater]

This is one wall of a structure I've been working on recently. All of the weathering was done by drybrushing the boards and using a simple acrylic stain on the shingles.

[AggroJones]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Casey Feedwater

This is one wall of a structure I've been working on recently. All of the weathering was done by drybrushing the boards and using a simple acrylic stain on the shingles.

Very nice! [:D]

[AggroJones]

I tried this once on a stock car, with fantastic results. It creates a "crazy George Sellios" type look.

First I make sure there is no dust, debris, or lint on the car. I dullcote the entire car from multiple angel 4 or 5 times. This will give it a more even distribution of talcom powder, which is part of the effect.

Then I take alot of flat charcoal black and raw umber water color in a mix of 4 parts rubbing alcohol to 1 part distilled water. (This way the colors dilute properly and the alcohol doesn't over bleach the dullcote.) I put the mix in a clean hair spray bottle and mist over the model. Use only enought to cover the surface, not so much it drips down.

Let each application of wash dry before you spray it again, so you can control the final look.

Drybru***he trucks mud or earth, and your done.

[Anonymous]

I started weathering boxcars and after two attempts with just pastels drybrushed I was happy and Dullcoated them. It looked fine after the coat so I think I used too much chalk dust [(-D]

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AggroJones

QUOTE: Originally posted by der5997

To "The Weathermaster" or anyone else out there who may know. I applied patel colours as powders to my box cars, and then Testors Dull Coat. When the DC had dried, there was little sing of thte pastel colours. What happened? Does this happen for you? What to do? BTW, the same thing happened with just plain dust and ashes. These are fine particles I'm dealing with. Thanks.

If pastel chalk dissapears after you dullcote, you must re-chalk the area again. And dullcote that again. You keep doing this until you build up enough to be seen when your done.

Cause one layer of chalk sealed with dullcote has very little effect on a model surface. [:(]

I have also read to put on the Dullcote BEFORE using the chalk which is supposed to give the surface more tooth for the chalk to grab onto. Personally, I just put on the chalk without the Dullcote spray. Enough seems to get rubbed in so that it doesn't (at least yet!) get rubbed off. At least this is my experience.