corkboard or not?

[Anonymous]

do you guys think i shoukld use the cork for road bed or can i just nail the tracks to the table? i 'm using ho scale. im new to these terms is roadbed what goes under the track?[%-)] i just feel it woould be more of a pain in the[censored] to cut the cork than it would be to just nail. do you think it would take away from the realism? i planned on just putting dowm some gravel. any suggestions?

[vsmith]

Use cork or homosote roadbed, do not nail direct to plywood or it will make ALOT of noise. ready made cork roadbed should be avalible at even the most basic train shop, it comes in two pieces, split down the center. Lay your track out, use a pencil or marker to transfer the "centerline" of the track onto the plywood. then remove track, use one side of the cork bed, glue it down along one side of the centerline. once dried glue down the other side next to the first. It really easy to do. then tack, nail, or glue the track down to the corkbed.

[dave9999]

I use AMI Instant Roadbed and am very pleased with the results. It is self adhesive. You just lay the roadbed,
press the edges to form slope, and press your track into the roadbed. Add some ballast and your DONE!
If you need to remove track later, just heat it with a blow dryer and the track comes right off. Dave

[Anonymous]

It will make your train quieter (a bit anyway) but when it is ballasted it will look really good because the tracks will be a bit above the surounding ground level, just like in real life [:)]

[Anonymous]

Are you suggesting buying a sheet of cork and cutting it?

That's a waste of time when you can buy it in strips, properly sized for HO scale already.

And, yes, there's a need for it. Railroad tracks sit on a high roadbed to promote drainage. It is a basic characteristic of the tracks, so you ought to model it.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I was just at the hobby store today, and saw some foam roadbed from Woodland Scenics (they make scenery material,and other stuff, in case Tylers Dad hasn't heard of them). I thought that the stuff looked pretty interesting. They had a little display demo that said "take the thump test". What a difference between cork and this foam product. It might be worth considering as an alternative to cork, especially if sound is an issue. Actually the product has probably been around for a while, I just haven't gone to the hobby store in a long time.

[Anonymous]

Hello again Tyler's Dad....

CORK ROADBED! (Enough Said?)

Get the cork roadbed that comes in 3 foot strips. IT is joined in two peices longitudinally in the box, but when you split the two, you will notice that there are bevels cut into one side of each, and squared edges on the opposite sides. Place the square edges together, back to back, and there you have a good looking raised roadbed.

Another hint. Buy stock in liquid nails. I have tried staples, white glue and water, and tacks. The water based glues make the cork warp and shift. The magic stuff called "liquid nails", or "just like the nails", is tacky and allows you to spread it out in a thin layer where you are about to lay the cork, then shift the cork a little left or right to line it up EXACTLY where you want it. Once you have it where you want it, press it down evenly and move on! (Wether you get the tubes or the can, buy a bunch of the 1.5 and 2 inch plastic spreaders. They can be cleaned once the glue sets, but while it is tacky you might want to change to a new plastic spreader.)

Let it dry overnight, then sand it with a block and paper before laying track.

When you lay the track, tack it in place firmly, but not enough to "bend" the ties with the holes in them. Once the track is where you want it, and I mean the work for the day, put a couple of drops of fine oil on your turnouts moving parts (this is just in case you accidentally get overzealous with the next step.) Then, take a spray bottle with water, and wet the cork and rails. Now, take a solution of 50-50 white glue and water (easy to do IN the elmer's bottle, buy a gallon refill jug of white glue to keep at the layout, and a gallon bottle of water so you can easily have the water on hand.) Take the elmer's bottle and simply open it enough to let the solution fill the rails and flow down under the rails to the ties. STAY AWAY FROM THE TURNOUTS!!!! STAY AWAY FROM THE TURNOUTS (*this is why we used the fine oil... you will accidentally get a little white glue on your turnouts, so use a paper towel to dry the turnout mechanisms, add a little more fine oil to the turnouts, then walk away.... this solution WILL break free. After the first coat.)(Please don't tell me the turnouts have motors on them at this point...)

Now, you have to get used to this part. It seems like you have too much white glue, but it does shrink and settle really well. DO NOT make it too thin, or the first time you touch the track you will break it loose and wreak havoc on your layout.

(Another hint, DON'T force track to follow the cork precisely. IF there is a slight grade or gap under a section of the rail, consider using a metal putty spreader to raise the cork a little, add a shim under the cork or between the track and cork, or leave the slight gap, make sure the rail is straight the way you want it, then use the white glue and water to glue the track down and let it take up the small gap. Forcing the track down can make the trains uncouple, derail, or list too far in some sections.)

Good luck.

[Anonymous]

I nailed my cork to my plywood top and the noise i get is from the metal wheels.

[Anonymous]

I'm a big believer in cork, in fact I just picked up 30' of it today. I find that if I'm placing it over plywood I will staple it down. If I'm laying it over foam or foam risers (woodland Scenics) I use a water base latex contact cement. It's just as good as regular contact cement but without the VOC's (volitile Organic Compounds).

Cork dampens sounds
Helps even out bumpy surfaces
Allows banking of curves (if your into that)
Allows for good base for ballasting

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tylers dad

do you guys think i shoukld use the cork for road bed or can i just nail the tracks to the table? i 'm using ho scale. im new to these terms is roadbed what goes under the track?[%-)] i just feel it woould be more of a pain in the[censored] to cut the cork than it would be to just nail. do you think it would take away from the realism? i planned on just putting dowm some gravel. any suggestions?

Hi TD;

Roadbed is the stuff between the subroad bed (probably the table top in your case) and ther track.

I have used cork, and will not after using Woodland Scenics Foambed. I do not use nails, I use Aleene's Tacky Glue (craft section at Wal-Mart) to attach the foam bed to the subroadbed and to attach the track to the foam bed. This is a MUCH superior solution to cork or Homabed®. There are a couple issues with nails: it is too easy to deform the track, they are hard to handle and they work themselves loose. Tacky Glue is also good for ballast, it does not set hard like white glue, but it provides a strong joint with flexibility.

[willy6]

for my roadbed i used automotive AC wrapping tape.the stuff is adheasive and easy to use especially on curves and is cheaper than any thing else an comes in 30 foot rolls.

[Jetrock]

I have used cork but found I preferred the Woodland Scenics foam. I think it's also cheaper. I glued it down with Tacky Glue (a slightly thicker white glue) and then nailed the track down--worked like a charm.

tylers dad: Take a look at real railroad roadbed--it is up on a pile of ballast. The purpose of roadbed, in addition to reducing noise, is to simulate the way that real railroad roadbed looked.

[orsonroy]

OK, here's a contrary opinion:

Cork or any other roadbed is a SCENIC item, NOT necessary for the operations of our toy trains at all. It looks good, and has a roughly correct profile of real RR roadbed, but does basically nothing for toy trains.

Yes, roadbed CAN absorb some noise, if you use harder material like Homasote or wood. Yes, some CAN be good for laying track, if you handlay or use spikes (Homasote is generally the best for this). But... ALL forms of premade roadbed material (cork, Homabed, WS foam, AIM, etc.) cost money and time, which may or may not be a problem. None of the products come in the correct drainage profile, and all require extra work to add to a layout.

Cutting your own roadbed is definitely NOT a waste of time. You can get cork material from Ace Hardware for around 50 cents a foot, whereas commercial premade cork costs around $1.45 for a 2"x3' piece. Even WS foam roadbed is too pricey, when compared to a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" thick extruded foam insulation, which costs $5.95 and yields around 150 linear feet of material (and which can be cut to the correct profiles as well).

The next time you're out and about, actually stare at some track, and note the details. Track through urban switching areas is generally at road level, with almost no discernable profile. High speed mainlines usually have a two level profile. In the area I'm modeling, central Illinois, the grade is generally constant, while the surrounding landscape undulates all over the place, creating lots of variation in the roadbed/subroadbed profile.

I prefer to glue track either directly to my foam layout base (in urban areas) or to homemade foam roadbed, and then cut the (more) correct profiles directly into the foam, adding the surrounding terrain with yet more foam. Realistic contours can be quickly and easily cut into the foam, getting rid of both the tabletop look and the model RR cork roadbed look.

[bcammack]

Putting a 2" sheet of foam insulation board over your plywood will provide considerable sound-deadening and provide additional benefit by allowing you to carve ditches, gullies, etc. in it and make your railroad's topography more interesting.

Either the cork roadbed or the Woodland Scenic's foam will work.

If you use the cork, though, I strongly recommend that you soften the top edges of the roadbed with sandpaper before you put down the track. It's not "natural" to have such a sharp edge there and it's not easy to get the ballast to cover it.

It's also not a bad idea to paint your roadbed a color close to the color of the ballast you are putting down.

I *don't* recommend the Woodland Scenics ballast, though. It is an organic material and it *floats* in water, which makes it darned challenging to put down and glue in place. I started with the stuff and it nearly drove me out of the hobby. I use real rock ballast from Arizona Rock & Mineral right now, but that company is shutting down. You can still get it from hobby shops while supplies last, but won't be able to order any more. Hi-Ball (Highball??) is another brand of "real rock" ballast.

Regards,
Brett C. Cammack
League City, TX

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bcammack

I *don't* recommend the Woodland Scenics ballast, though. It is an organic material and it *floats* in water, which makes it darned challenging to put down and glue in place.

The solution to this problem is the use fo a small amount of soap mixed into the glue solution. Also a fine misting with water before applying the glue helps stop floaters.

[Jetrock]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy
The next time you're out and about, actually stare at some track, and note the details. TRack through urban switching areas is generall at road level, with almost no discernable profile. High speed mainlines usually have a two level profile. In the area I'm modeling, cebtral Illinois, the grade is generally constant, while the surrounding landscape undulates all over the place, creating lots of variation in the roadbed/subroadbed profile.

I prefer to glue track either directly to my foam layout base (in urban areas) or to homemade foam roadbed, and then cut the (more) correct profiles directly into the foam, adding the surrounding terrain with yet more foam. Realistic contours can be quickly and easily cut into the foam, getting rid of both the tabletop look and the model RR cork roadbed look.

okay, you make a good point here. I've used the foam roadbed but for my actual current layout (which I have mentioned) the track is simply nailed to MDF, as it represents in-street trackage, and the UP north-south line through town (formerly WP) is, indeed, level with the nearby streets (if not a bit below them) and so roadbed profile would be unnecessary to model it.

[Anonymous]

I've switched to the Woodland Snenic roadbed and it a lot easier to use than cork and if you need to change something very forgiving. Seems to be a little quieter. But the big deal here is how easy it is to work with and I have had some down for over 8 months and no problems. Shaping turnsouts and curves is a breeze. I have reused some of the stuff and it works great. Try that with Cork! You can but it's not neat and clean.

RMax

[bcammack]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

QUOTE: Originally posted by bcammack

I *don't* recommend the Woodland Scenics ballast, though. It is an organic material and it *floats* in water, which makes it darned challenging to put down and glue in place.

The solution to this problem is the use fo a small amount of soap mixed into the glue solution. Also a fine misting with water before applying the glue helps stop floaters.

I tried every technique ever mentioned on the internet including that one, to get good-looking results from Woodland Scenics ballast, short of sacrificing a goat. I stand by my original statement. It is *not* easy to get good results with WS ballast.

Regards,
Brett C. Cammack
League City, TX

[dharmon]

TD,

As you can see there are several different ways to skin this cat. You don't have to use it at all if you don't want. But it does help with sound qualities and general appearances. It also can help to provide a smoother surface over plywood to negate some of the imperfections inherent to B/C grades and therefore can smooth out the track.

If you are going to use a plywood top, then cork, Woodlands Scenics roadbed or the AMI stuff will work. All probably work equally well. I personally don't have experience with any road bed except cork, but would recommend using roadbed of some type...unless...

......you plan to top the layout with foam board or homasote board. I have used both of these. Foam is good because you can form ditches around the track and achieve the "raised" look as mentioned above. I also like homasote tops. They are great particularly if you are making yards or places where there are multiple tracks in close proximity without the headache of doing alot of corkwork, because you can lay the track directly to the top. The club I belong to uses cork on the mainlines and homasote sheets for the yards and terminals.

There are as many opinions on this subject as there are type of materials available. If I were to venture a guess I'd say cork is the most prevalent and readily available though

.

[Anonymous]

TD,

I just want to add, that I have used cork for years. But I can't say that it helps with noise. By the time you add all of the glue and the ballast and glue, it is rock hard down to the wood. But it has always run better than track on most other mediums that I have tried. More importantly, I always have SOMETHING under the track and above the wood. It keeps the bumps and creases to a minimum.

For industry, I use thick cardboard and lay all of the industry trackage at or just about road height. But the elevation must be a mimimal difference from the mainline, so interchange is not an issue. Unless that is the definate desire for the spur.

You are getting a lot of good advice from these guys. Now, work through some of these ideas. You can always start over before going too far. NO one is wrong here. They are all giving their best opinion and sharing their experiences. I love this forum.