Thank you very much for your replies and help. Most likely I found the proper gear here in Poland. One of my modeler friends has a spare part. I will get it next week.
I looked through the NWSL web page - an impressive collection of parts. This might help if the part I receive is incorrect.
I think this weekend I will try with CA glue. In case of failure, the spare part is on the way.
Usually I use 'driven gear' rather than 'worm wheel' to be slightly clearer.
Note that if you are going to replace this gear rather than simply using thin cyanoacrylate, you'd do better with the correct type of gear. Walthers has used a simple spur gear. The 'correct' gear will have skew teeth matching the engaging face of the worm across more of the tooth face.
Arras88 I wrote it wrong. It's a worm drive. The worm gear is on the motor rod and it is ok. The worm wheel is broken. It is placed on the rod which goes to the bridge. The cracked wheel is plastic, white in color, has a diameter of 5.7mm (the converter says 0.2244 inches), and has 10 teeth. PS I hope I used correct English technical expressions
I wrote it wrong. It's a worm drive. The worm gear is on the motor rod and it is ok. The worm wheel is broken. It is placed on the rod which goes to the bridge.
The cracked wheel is plastic, white in color, has a diameter of 5.7mm (the converter says 0.2244 inches), and has 10 teeth.
PS I hope I used correct English technical expressions
Please post inner diameter. Also post the tooth depth if possible. To calculate MOD we need to know the diameter of the wheel which is measured from the center to the middle of the teeth. Or the outside wheel diameter-tooth depth.BTW: The worm gear is the helical gear attached to the motor shaft. This is a standard gear attached to the other shaft.Gearing – NorthWest Short Line (nwsl.com)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Last I checked NWSL made custom gears to spec. But just about any watch maker could do it. You could also 3D print one with resin printer.
I have one of these turntables. My yard is a piece of plywood, so I cut a hole in it, installed the turntable, added a Roundhouse and track. Replacing it is just not practical.
So I removed the bridged, removed the components in the bridge and put the bridge back in with all the wiring.
I just use it manually and for all my need, manual suffices and my grandson is quite expert at using it.
Those photos remind me of gears used on the Walthers Bascule Bridge and who knows what else.I think there is a chance, however slim, that Walthers may have some available. Give them a call.
Rich
Alton Junction
Arras88 I finally disassembled the bridge. I found the cracked gear that spins on the motor's metal rod. This is a reason. Now I am looking for a solution. I am not sure if the glue will help. I doubt that spare parts are available anywhere...
I finally disassembled the bridge. I found the cracked gear that spins on the motor's metal rod. This is a reason. Now I am looking for a solution. I am not sure if the glue will help.
I doubt that spare parts are available anywhere...
mvlandsw Look for cracked gears or couplings in the drive train. Mark
Look for cracked gears or couplings in the drive train.
Mark
Good guess!
Thank you all for your replies.
Have you tried pushing it by hand? Old greese can sometimes gum up with works
Gotta be mechanical.
?
Hello,
Unfortunately, my Transfer Table (Walthers 933-2968) stopped working. It hasn't been used for two or three years. I was focused on building my layout in the second room. I tried to use it yesterday and there is no movement.
It seems that electrical connections are good. The controller works, and I can operate lights on the deck and in the cab. When I send a command to move the bridge, the humming motor is heard but the bridge is not moving. The same happens with the calibration command - something starts humming (I guess a motor) but the bridge has no movement.
I guess that it is a mechanical error. Maybe the gears stuck. It has been a few years since it worked last.
It is hard to diagnose the problem when I have the bridge on my work desk. I can't remove the pit without destroying my layout - like in a turntable, rails are glued on the edges of the pit. Without the pit, I don't know how to power the bridge. The second pit would be useful.
There are five rails on the pit which are connected to the controller. A DCC decoder seems to be installed in a cab on the deck. It would be helpful to have a wiring diagram.
Maybe someone has already had such a problem? Any tips on how to fix this?