Maxman.
The two weights are missing from the exploded view. They are in all of my old yellow box RS and RSD locomotives. The newer black box RS units don't have them and have an entirely different frame where the weight is in the frame and not separate. More like the Athearn frame.
Pete.
Kinda depends how old is "old". Long ago, Atlas engines had a heavy metal frame that included the walkways, and a plastic body/cab assembly that snapped onto that. At some point - maybe 20 years ago? - they switched to just the chassis being metal, with plastic walkways and body/cab. With the later ones, you can remove the body from the chassis without removing the couplers, but as mentioned earlier, you have to be careful about disconnecting the handrails first.
maxmanSqueezing just the cab end and pulling will probably end up breaking the latches on the other end.
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
HOSeeker.net shows two versions of the RS-1:
This one clearly identified the latches. I believe that it is prudent to squeeze both ends of the hood. Squeezing just the cab end and pulling will probably end up breaking the latches on the other end. At least that's what happened to me on a similar Atlas loco.
Yes. Just a wiggle will release the shell. There will be two weights inside. One on each end. A board replacement decoder is perfect with a pair of LEDs. Shorten the light pipes but leave the wings on for the number boards. You may have to trim the rectangular shape off the weights so the decoder doesn't short on them and go poof. And again. Don't forget the hand rails to the cab. Do not use bulbs for the lights. I melted an RS-1 shell that I detailed with train phone, lift rings, see through fan grille and more. Made me sick to my stomach.
crossthedogYes, there are tabs on both ends of the RS-1 shell.
My go-to site is the TCS Installs section where many locomotives are represented and you can get a good look inside thanks to their clear photos:
https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1148
This example might be a later run:
https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/629
Good Luck, Ed
Yes, there are tabs on both ends of the RS-1 shell. For me, it's easiest to grip the cab, thumb on one side, index finger on the other side, and gently wiggle the shell until it lifts. This is AFTER I've popped the railings out of the cab of course.
Good luck.
-Matt
I have several yellow box (YB) Kato Atlas RS-3s. I believe you don't have to touch the screws in the fuel tank. The shell is tab-mounted, I think. If you carefully unhitch the railings from the holes in the cab so you don't break them, you should be able to gently squeeze the shell to release it.
I'm going to check this and report back, because I also have YB RS-1s, and I may be thinking of those instead and they may be different from the RS-3s. I'm at work but will go visit the train room in a bit. Thanks for the excuse
EDIT: Oh, duh! You SAID RS-1 right in your post title.
Somewhere along the way I picked up an Atlas RS-1. Kato drive that say's Kato on the bottom. PRR Engine number 5617 that somebody painted and decaled. Pretty good job. Box say's model 8100 undecorated. Two pins holding Kadee couplers on and two screws in the fuel tank. What is the procedure to remove the shell. No instruction sheet included in box. Want to install dcc.