DunderheadI know it is probably counter-productive to just throw parts at a problem, but there you have it.
If a locomotive is running on an isolated track section where the power is off, I would immediately replace the switch first, just like you did.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Dunderhead Not being an electronic wizard, I can only guess. While running one locomotive on a selected block, another locomotive on a different block (that was turned off) began to run. I just assumed that there was a short somewhere in the controller. The problem seemed to clear up after I replaced the controller. I know it is probably counter-productive to just throw parts at a problem, but there you have it.
Not being an electronic wizard, I can only guess. While running one locomotive on a selected block, another locomotive on a different block (that was turned off) began to run. I just assumed that there was a short somewhere in the controller. The problem seemed to clear up after I replaced the controller. I know it is probably counter-productive to just throw parts at a problem, but there you have it.
This post reminded of a possible problem you 'may have had'. When using "Selectors" to control blocks, if you run a loco OR a car capable of conducting current (like a lighted pass/ car) past your 'insulator', it will electrify that block (supposed to be off) as if the switch was thrown to power it on.
When the loco or car passes (one truck) the insulator, it bridges current around the insulator through the model and back out the other truck which is in the block turned on. This will also cause any electrical device such as parked loco or lit car ..... turn on all the sudden.
You may want to check the selector you just replaced, it may not be bad after all.
Ofcourse this can happen even using commercial switches like DPDT's and the like.
Just an after thought.
PMR
Hello All,
MisterBeasleyI used all Atlas turnouts and controls on my teenage layout.One thing you should do with twin-coil machines like Atlas is use a Capacitive Discharge circuit.
While all great advice regarding twin coil switch machines and their controllers, I believe the OP is referring to...
Neither of them have to do with turnout control.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I used all Atlas turnouts and controls on my teenage layout. I'm 76 now, so please forgive me if I forget some details. I never liked them, as their control panel footprint was far larger than necessary and made creating a control panel that was a schematic of the track plan impossible. When I built my "grown-up" layout, I used small toggles and have been happy with them.
One thing you should do with twin-coil machines like Atlas is use a Capacitive Discharge circuit. That stores up a stronger pulse of electricity and uses that to power the turnout, thus overcoming wire line loss and providing enough power to drive more "aggressive" machines like Pecos on the far side of your layout. You can buy a CD circuit, or make one yourself with a couple of resistors and a capacitor. I only used one for my entire layout of a couple of dozen twin-coils.
Once a turnout is thrown with a CD circuit, the circuit must have a second or two to recharge before another turnout may be thrown. So, if one of those Atlas switch controllers sticks in the closed position, current will be extremely limited and the switch machine will not burn out.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm curious what exactly is failing with them that you have to replace them so often? I've used Atlas "Connectors" since the 1970s and don't recall one ever failing.
Thank you everyone for your responses. I have a lot to chew on. Happy Trails.
Allen
This might sound counterintuitive but...
Get a copy of The Complete Atlas Wiring Book.
This gives the schematics for all of their electronic components.
From there you can replicate the circuitry with toggle switches.
I have one of those Atlas switch controllers because the Atlas switch was the only one that fit the tight location and the controller came with it so I gave it a try. It seems solid enough and I've learned how to work it as described above by Hornblower, but I don't like the way you have to move the switch and then push it, or push then move, and even moving it you have to push it a little, but not as much as when you want it to throw. So it seems suboptimally designed.
Everywhere else, I use ON-ON toggles, such as these:
They look like this in the back:
I cannot recall whether these are single pole, single throw (SPST), or single pole double throw (SPDT), or double pole single throw (DPST), or double pole double throw (DPDT), but I got them online from (I believe) Carling. Good price, solid hardware. Kevin knows about them, so you could ask him, but I think he may be hunkered down right now waiting for a bit of a bluster to pass.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
I always found Atlas products to be very reliable. I still have their stuff from my youth, which still work like day one.
But for replacements as said above, commercial switches can be used. Ive never had to do this.
Though good luck finding a wiring diagram for model railroads on the back of the package like Atlas!
Thank you Kevin, I appreciate your reply. I'll keep your offer in mind
Thanks for your reply. The mechanisms always seemed kinda 'loosie goosie' to me
DunderheadIs there a viable alternative out there?
Toggle switches.
Industrial toggle switches will last the life of your layout.
Please post any specific question on how to wire in the replacements, and I will gladly help out.
Atlas wiring components work fairly well as long as you are very gentle with them. One of the layouts I operate on still uses the Atlas turnout controls. The "old hats" at these operating sessions know to gently slide the switch to the appropiate position, then gently press the switch button BRIEFLY to activate the switch. Unfortunately, a newbie will occasionally attend who doesn't understand the proper use of the Atlas products. They will first press the switch button hard then slide the switch into position. While this still works, it creates the potential for the depressed switch button to wedge under the black plastic case of the switch which does not allow it to release electrical contact. An Atlas turnout control stuck like this will quickly melt the switch motor on the turnout. While Atlas Controllers and Selectors are not as finicky as the Atlas turnout controls, they are made with a similar design and materials and so should be operated with the same level of care.
The same operating layout still uses its original Atlas Selectors and Connectors even though the layout has been converted to DCC. These switches are all set to connect to one power pack (now the DCC Command Station) and taped over so they can't be changed. They have been in place for many years and still function fine.
Hornblower
I am curious to hear from users about the reliability of Atlas controllers and selectors. It seems I am confronted with replacing one or the other every six months or so. Is there a viable alternative out there?