OvermodThere is one big caveat to using a power pack for variable 'utility' voltage: block the operating lever or control SECURELY so that no accident puts 'full throttle voltage' on what you have connected!
This is important information! If you have all your lighting set to run on 12 volts and you accidentally turn the voltage to maximum (16-17 volts for most power packs) you could burn out all the lights immediately!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Rusty_08Hello everyone, Still somewhat of a noob but looking to add lighting to my layout, first with structures. I read a lot of ppl recommend using a DC power pack to control lighting and I also have a terminal block that I could probably use. So would I connect the wires from the power pack into the terminal block and put feeder wires from the lights into the terminal block? Thanks in advance.
Yes.
I use an MRC Tech II 2500 for the signals on my layout. I don't have any building lights, as of yet. (Because I have a few MRC power packs from previous DC layouts)
I have them wired to the accessery outlets. Works fine.
Mike.
My You Tube
to the forum. Your posts are delayed in moderation for a while.
I would suggest a wall wart, a generic name for a plug in transformer. You can cut off the connector at the end and hook it to your terminal block.
There is also something called a buck converter. Some of them have a digital voltmeter so you can dial down the output so it's suitable for LED lighting.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
There is one big caveat to using a power pack for variable 'utility' voltage: block the operating lever or control SECURELY so that no accident puts 'full throttle voltage' on what you have connected!
Rusty_08So would I connect the wires from the power pack into the terminal block and put feeder wires from the lights into the terminal block? Thanks in advance.
Yes you can use a terminal block. It will make your wires more tiddy but it is not necessary. You can also just use a wirenut instead if you only have a few wires to connect.
There are usually two sets of posts on a powerpack. The DC posts are for the throttle of the locomotive. You can vary the output. The other posts are AC for accessories. It is a constant output. Depending on the lights you buy you might be able to use the DC and lower the output to a lower level to dim the lights slightly. This might not work for LED lights.
I would use the throttle output for your lighting. This way you can adjust the intensity.
For incandescent bulbs, I run approximately 10 volts. This lengthens the bulb life and gives a more realistic glow to the lamps. If using LEDs, you can do the same thing only at a lower voltage.
Jim
Here's the distro board I use, the DB05 from WeHonest.
The three sets of wires coming in from the left are connecting with pin connectors, and you can see there's room for lots more. The blue and green ones are thicker wires coming in from a structure close by; they attach by the flathead screws you can see facing this way. Again, there's room for a dozen sets of these. The red/black wires in middle left go to an on/off switch that WeHonest thoughtfully provided, which you can use or not. The middle of the board has a third kind of connector, and they give you lots of these plugs (with wires!) and the other pin connectors with your board purchase. There's even a dimmer -- that blue square with a phillips screw in it will dim your LEDs. There's also a jumper so you can link up a bunch of these. I think it's the coolest thing since the RS-1 road switcher.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
Hi Rusty,
I used terminal blocks for my Tortoise switches powered with an old wall wart from a bike light charger or some such.
I have a couple old power packs and one of them is currently powering the sole Atlas switch machine on the layout, since it's far from the Tortoises.
But for structures, I've found that I'm dealing with really weensy wires, so thin and delicate that the standard terminal block wouldn't even cinch down on them. I bought the distribution board from WeHonest (wehonest.net), which has a number of different ways you can connect to it (bare wires, several types of pin connectors) and a number of ways you can use lights (LEDs with resistors, LEDs without resistors, incandescents). I'm just getting started with lighting but so far this system is working really well.
But there are many experts here who will weigh in with great counsel.
For preparatory reading, this thread I started recently goes into wire types quite a bit (https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/294683.aspx).
Good luck,
EDIT: The link inserter is now broken, so that link is not hot. Sorry.
Hello everyone,Still somewhat of a noob but looking to add lighting to my layout, first with structures. I read a lot of ppl recommend using a DC power pack to control lighting and I also have a terminal block that I could probably use. So would I connect the wires from the power pack into the terminal block and put feeder wires from the lights into the terminal block? Thanks in advance.