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DCC Wiring for Atlas code 100 #4 Customline Mark V turnouts

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  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 15 posts
DCC Wiring for Atlas code 100 #4 Customline Mark V turnouts
Posted by gstrains55 on Friday, March 31, 2023 9:00 AM

 As a novice to the hobby, I am experiencing problems with wiring an Atlas code 100 #4 Customline Mark V turnout. 

I am using a SPDT switch to control the turnout, and want to wire it, to LED lamps ( to indicate main or siding). Also I have a three element signal in the mix. I have tried to work from Alan Gartners, Ty's model railroad, and Atlas Diagrams, however none show the total picture. Could those of you in the know provide a diagram showing these elements.

Thanks gstrains55

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, March 31, 2023 12:24 PM

I assume you're using a switch machine to power the turnout points.  Which one?  If it's an Atlas machine, there's no easy way to do it without additional hardware.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Morristown, NJ
  • 798 posts
Posted by nealknows on Friday, March 31, 2023 9:49 PM

gstrains55

 As a novice to the hobby, I am experiencing problems with wiring an Atlas code 100 #4 Customline Mark V turnout. 

I am using a SPDT switch to control the turnout, and want to wire it, to LED lamps ( to indicate main or siding). Also I have a three element signal in the mix. I have tried to work from Alan Gartners, Ty's model railroad, and Atlas Diagrams, however none show the total picture. Could those of you in the know provide a diagram showing these elements.

Thanks gstrains55

If you can tell us which switch machine you're using, it could help us help you!

I use DCC and other than reversing loops, I don't do any special wiring to the turnouts. As far as I am concerned (others may differ), they are DCC friendly. 

Now I use Atlas switch machines both under the table and on top and use momentary push buttons to control the turnout. In addition, I use their #200 Snap relay so I can add LED's to show turnout indication. Very easy to use.

If you're using Tortoise or some other brand, I would check the wiring directions as they do work differently than Atlas. 

Neal

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Friday, March 31, 2023 11:06 PM

gstrains55
I am using a SPDT switch to control the turnout,

Really?  Or does the SPDT control a switch motor?

Without a link or having us search: isn't on the tip of our tongue.

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 15 posts
Posted by gstrains55 on Saturday, April 1, 2023 7:46 AM

Thanks to all for responding to my question

I am using Atlas # 200 snap relays and switch above table.The top three connections A, B, Common on the Atlas relay, connect to the three element signal tower. A black wire on the tower connects to the  negative DC power supply terminal, relay and switch are AC powered.

Currently I have power to the switch, but cannnot get the LED switch indicators and tower to light.The SPDT switch controls the track switch, and is DC powered.

Any Ideas on how to solve this ? Thanks again.

gstrains55 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
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Posted by zstripe on Saturday, April 1, 2023 10:11 AM

How to wire what You have with incandesant panel lights/ signals with AC power. To use Leds, You have to change the power source to DC and use resistors on the Leds. On figure 4 & 5.

I have been using this system since 1980 with normally open push buttons on control panel.

Take Care! Smile, Wink & Grin

Frank

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, April 1, 2023 3:57 PM

You've mentioned that you are new at this, so how familiar are you with wiring LEDs?  There are a few things to remember.  First, they run on low voltage and low current.  So, you generally need a current-limiting resistor in series with the LED and its power supply.  Second, a LED is a diode and if wired backwards, it will not work.

If you wire a LED (Light Emitting Diode) without a resistor, there's a good chance you will see a brief bright flash and then you will have a Darkness Emitting Diode, or DED.  The good news is that LEDs are cheap.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
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Posted by gstrains55 on Saturday, April 1, 2023 5:35 PM

Thank you Frank. So if I understand correctly, from figure 5 The LEDs are wired to DC, and not AC as shown?. I know that a current-limiting resistor is connected to the + positive lead of the LED.

  • Member since
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  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Saturday, April 1, 2023 5:53 PM

The resistor can be on either lead, but for consistency, pick one and I'm sure you are going to need DC.

Not to hiijack your thread but it looks like (fig 2) AC power goes to the switch machine, relay and eventually powers the frog.  That can't be right.  What am I missing?

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 15 posts
Posted by gstrains55 on Saturday, April 1, 2023 5:56 PM

Mister Beasley, 

Thank you for your responce. I am fimiliar with LEDs, the + positive lead is the longer, and I have it wired to the current-limiting resistor.

Currently all is working correctly, with the exception of one LED on my control panel. I'll check to find if I fried this

Thanks Again

gstrains55

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,334 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, April 1, 2023 6:25 PM

I have a simple test for LEDs   I use a 9 volt battery, a 1K resistor and a LED.  It will power and light the LED, not blow it out, and verify that the LED is good.

I have had trouble mixing different colors of LEDs in circuits.  Some LEDs are more current hungry than others, so avoid parallel when possible.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,706 posts
Posted by zstripe on Saturday, April 1, 2023 6:59 PM

gstrains55

Thank you Frank. So if I understand correctly, from figure 5 The LEDs are wired to DC, and not AC as shown?. I know that a current-limiting resistor is connected to the + positive lead of the LED.

 

Correct......... I use incandesants for the panel indicators and LED two color searchlight signals at the track for turnout position, Red/Green. At the time I built this, snap relays were only 7.00 and under table switch machines were the same. There were 48 snap relays for the double track mainline at the time. Three similar control panels. DC 3 cab control with 3 MRC Control master 20's.

And Henry aka Big Daddy, look at fig 2 again and You will see that there are terminal jumpers from the track that go to the bottom half of the 200 relay and one wire to the frog.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Saturday, April 1, 2023 7:44 PM

OK I thought they were feeds to the track

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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