Mark R. Looking at the circuit traces on the board in your picture, those two sold points appear to be on a common piece of circuit trace. That being the case, the blue wire could be soldered to either one and be correct. Mark.
Looking at the circuit traces on the board in your picture, those two sold points appear to be on a common piece of circuit trace. That being the case, the blue wire could be soldered to either one and be correct.
Mark.
Yes, you're absolutely right I soldered it and it didn't matter which one it was so I tested them both and the lights worked!
Thanks to everyone for your input!
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Hi Hawks Rule,
You can check to see if the wiring diagram is correct before soldering by hooking up an LED between the blue and white wires (don't forget the resistor!) and then touch the blue wire to the pad that you think is the correct one. If the LED doesn't light, reverse the wires on the LED to see what happens. If it still doesn't light, try the other pad.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
So, I might be good for something after all, contrary to what the boss says.
maxman What does the other side of the decoder look like? I found a 0001637 decoder manual that has a wiring diagram, and the wire colors appear to be the same as yours. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2075947/Mrc-Sheer-Brilliance-0001637.html?page=2#manual Yoou can magnify the wiring diagram. Seems like there are 7 connection points, with the blue wire in the center. Seems that the blue wire is associated with the lights. If you put the decoder back into the tester, see if the headlights work. If they don't, that would probably confim that your decoder is wired the same as the 0001637.
What does the other side of the decoder look like?
I found a 0001637 decoder manual that has a wiring diagram, and the wire colors appear to be the same as yours.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2075947/Mrc-Sheer-Brilliance-0001637.html?page=2#manual
Yoou can magnify the wiring diagram. Seems like there are 7 connection points, with the blue wire in the center. Seems that the blue wire is associated with the lights.
If you put the decoder back into the tester, see if the headlights work. If they don't, that would probably confim that your decoder is wired the same as the 0001637.
Many thanks maxman!
The manual is perfect. Now I know where to solder the blue wire.
Cheers!
You can magnify the wiring diagram. Seems like there are 7 connection points, with the blue wire in the center. Seems that the blue wire is associated with the lights.
Hi Henry,
I will just go by trial and error.
Tomorrow I will solder the blue wire first, to the centre right dot and see what happens and if nothing, then I will solder the blue wire to the centre left dot.
Thanks for trying.
I don't have an MRC, but I'm on your side and was trying to help, hoping I could see somewhere where the blue wire broke away or where it shouldn't have been soldered.
If I remember correctly, Railroad Mel was an MRC fan, but he is no longer with us. I hope you solve your problem.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Yes, I saw the picture the first time. I see the tape residue that runs circumferently around the decoder. I was commenting on that darker streak that runs vertically in your picture.
Anyway, I assume you did not get a manual with the decoder. I did go to the MRC website to see if I could find one, because some of the other decoders seemed to have a wiring diagram. But I was unable to find your decoder listed.
Yes, because from what I read the picture or pictures did not get posted.
Take a good look at the picture.
The blue wire is off to the right and NOT connected, the Decoder has two solder dots in the middle of it as outlined by the two black arrows.
My question is very simple. Do I re-connect the BLUE WIRE to the solder dot which is centre right or the solder dot which is centre left.
The reason why I have not done this, is because I do not want to make a mistake and then realize I have to re-solder.
I thought that there might be modlers out there who have had experience and know where the blue wire is connected to.
That is why I posted this.
It's the same picture as your first post
Here is the closeup picture of the two middle points on the decoder and the blue loose wire.
No, that is not a burn mark. It's tape residue.
I will re post the two pictures again
maxmanBut what is that streak that looks like a burn mark?
Do you mean below the orange wire?
It looks like the OP meant to post 2 pictures and we can only see one. I don't know if I am looking at where a wire detached or a wire that was attached from the other side and it is the opposite side.
Can’t answer your question. But what is that streak that looks like a burn mark?
Hello,
I just picked up an MRC 1630 Steam sound decoder for free!
I tested it in my ESU Decoder tester and works very nicely.
Surprisingly, the sound is excellent and all the functions work.
When I removed the decoder, I noticed that the blue wire came off.
So, it looked like the blue wire had to be re-soldered on the decoder, no problem.
Upon inspection, I noticed that there were two points in the middle of the decoder.
My question is: Which one do I solder the blue wire to, or does it matter?
Here are the photos to better understand.