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First Post; Locomotive will sound but will not roll.

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  • Member since
    December 2022
  • From: Lancaster, OH
  • 2 posts
Posted by praterlibraryrailroad on Thursday, December 8, 2022 1:21 PM

Thanks for the Replies. I am about to try out these solutions let you know after the weekend.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
  • 13,892 posts
Posted by wjstix on Tuesday, December 6, 2022 4:09 PM

My rule of thumb is that is something worked fine, then I did something, and now it doesn't work, then what I did caused the problem. It's less likely that the DCC system has a problem, or the decoder suddenly went bad, and more likely the problem relates to the now-ballasted track.

 

When weathering rail or otherwise doing scenicking around it, I always make sure to clean the top and insides of the rail head, as rrebel mentioned above. It could be, if you just cleaned the tops, the engine is getting some power but not enough to keep it moving. 

Would be interesting to see if a different engine has the same problem on the track. You might also try taking a piece of leftover track and wiring it up to the DCC system and see if the engine works on that track.

Stix
  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,775 posts
Posted by snjroy on Tuesday, December 6, 2022 2:13 PM

If the loco moved 1cm, the decoder is probably ok. Dirty track can affect power, providing enough to power some functions, but not enough for the motor.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Monday, December 5, 2022 4:55 PM

Sound but no movement sounds like a decoder problem to me.  Decoders do lose there minds from time to time and it does not take a mometary short.   A decoder reset is usually acomplished by setting CV 8 to 8.  Then toggle the power to the loco.

However whenever there is a question about power, you should measure, otherwise you are guessing.  A cheap Harbor Freight voltmeter (AC) is good enough.  You aren't looking to see is it is 12.51 or 12.49, you are looking to see if it is 12.5 or 7.  It is a must have tool to have.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
  • 13,892 posts
Posted by wjstix on Monday, December 5, 2022 4:28 PM
Don't forget to clean the engine's wheels. I've had it happen where the wheels picked up some residue I didn't see from the track after scenicking that caused trouble.
Stix
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Monday, December 5, 2022 12:19 PM

Step One - get a small bottle of mineral spirits or kerosene, dampen a clean painter's cleanup cotton sheet remnant, and begin wiping down the rail head for at least two feet on either side of the affected spot.

Step Two - get a $20 multi-meter and verify that you have the correct power orientation and voltage supply on either side of the affected area for at least two feet.  Also meter the affected area.  Slide the points along the rail tops, one point at a time, for a few inches and note the reading.  If it changes, there's your bad spot.

What did you use to affix the ballast particles?  If you used glue, perhaps too much of it has corrupted the innards of one or more of the joiners.  You'll have to remove the joiner(s) and clean them or replace them.  Good time to clean up the web and top surface of the rail foot as well.

Did I mention metering the rails?  The meter will tell you where voltage cuts off.  It might be a weak mechanical joint, weak solder, weak connection between the rails and the command station....the list goes on.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,667 posts
Posted by rrebell on Monday, December 5, 2022 10:18 AM

If it moved at all it is proubly dirty track. Did you bright boy the track well, I know people say that you shouldn't use an abrasive cleaner on track but this has never been an issue for me. Make sur you clean the inside of the rail face too.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 1,950 posts
Posted by NVSRR on Monday, December 5, 2022 10:02 AM

Don't worry about the track. The loco is getting power to run the sound, then electrical contacts and track isn't the problem.  Most likely the decoder has a  oment of amnesia 

shane

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 1,950 posts
Posted by NVSRR on Monday, December 5, 2022 9:59 AM

Common problem with all dcc systems. The decoders commonly forget they have a motor function.    Run it through a programming like you did the first time you got it, and that usually corrects it.  
shane

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

  • Member since
    December 2022
  • From: Lancaster, OH
  • 2 posts
First Post; Locomotive will sound but will not roll.
Posted by praterlibraryrailroad on Sunday, December 4, 2022 1:36 PM

Hello community,

I have a Digitrax D.C.C. system on a 6ft layout two turnouts without frogs wired. Locomotive used to run well doesn't after ballasting. Have tried to be careful ballasting, track cleaned, wheels and track in gauge loco has sound but when moving 1cm cuts off.

Does the community know this problem? Appricate any advice. Willing to replace with a wired turnout or juice the frog even both.

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