I recently bought a booster for my new layout because I wanted to run more engines simultanously. Since it was an older model, I went and found a power supply for the booster on ebay. The seller said it was compaitable with DB210 and DB220, it even came with an adapter plug. However when I opened the package I realized that it is an AC power adapter. The directions on the DB210 say only use a DC power adapter. Did I buy a power adapter that I cannot use for the booster? When I was shopping for the power supply, I didn't even consider AC versus DC. Will this power supply work with the DB210?
Page 7 of the DB210 instructions tell it all - DC only, in bold print no less!
I'd certainly follow the manufacturer's instructions, rather than what some random fleabay seller wanting to make a buck tells you.
I use three of these for my DCS240 and two older DB210s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BHLLBX6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No problems at all in the two years now that I've been using them. There is a voltage trimmer on each one so you can adjust their output by 10% if needed. Also protection for over current/voltage/heat.
Can you read the very fine print that shows the actual input and output of the adapter you bought? I have a bunch of "wall-warts" that have labels on them that say "AC Adapter" however the actual output IS DC. They call them AC adapters in reference to the AC household current.
Use a magnifying glass to read the output that is surely somewhere on the label or molded right ijn to the housing.
Sometimes these is only the symbol that looks like two squiggly lines for AC and a solid line with a dashed line below it for DC. A DC adapter will have a white marking on one of the wires. *Usually* the white marked wire is positive, but I've come across the opposite on a few.
A quick check with a voltmeter will tell you. Set it to DC (or many digital VOMs will autoselect) an analog meter the needle will rise when the red lead is connected to the positive side. A digital meter will show DC voltage without a minus sign if you are reading plus to the red meter lead.
Good Luck, Ed
Yet another situation where we really really miss Randy Rinker . . .
I don't remember the facts exactly, and I'm not sure I actually understood the facts, so I hope others who know might chime in here.
I think some older Digitrax equipment could use either 15V AC or 15V DC input, as odd as that sounds, and I think Ed's DCS240 was one of those units. But recently, I think Digitrax changed some of their stuff to require only 15V DC input.
A few months ago I added a DB210 booster to my layout and researched suitable power inputs but did not find conclusive information; or at least I didn't fully understand the info I was able to find. I did not trust the amateur sellers or even the expert sellers on Amazing-dot-com-slash-prime, so I chickened out and purchased an official Digitrax PS615 from Modeltrainstuff; even though it cost more than twice as much as the off-brand compatable (or so they advertised) power sources. The PS615 has DC output.
Sorry I could not be more help. I'm not Randy.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
Geez, what's so hard about this!!??
As I pointed out in my first post, the Digitrax-supplied instructions for the DB210, readily available here, say it requires a DC power supply.
They even put it in bold print because, well, they want to make it clear that it's an important consideration!
Wall warts are AC-to-DC power supplies because you are converting the 120VAC from your house outlet to the required DC for the unit. Ed has it right. Read the label on the power supply to make sure that's what it is doing. And, as Ed recommended, double-check the connector end with a voltmeter or DMM to ensure that DC is coming out of the wall wart at that voltage. If it is then you're golden.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
ROBERT PETRICKI think some older Digitrax equipment could use either 15V AC or 15V DC input, as odd as that sounds, and I think Ed's DCS240 was one of those units.
The DCS240 accepts DC only.
From Digitrax:
Note: Accepts DC POWER input ONLY from power supply (sold separately). Recommended power supply: Digitrax PS514 or equivalent. MAXIMUM INPUT 8 AMPS, 24VDC, 192 VA MAXIMUM CONTINUOUS, DO NOT Exceed 25VDC maximum Input. Minimum Input 13VDC.
Yes, my older Command station and boosters would accept an AC input source but when I bought the 240 some three years ago I reconfigured the power supplies and I did trust what I was buying from the Amazon seller.
NILESince it was an older model, I went and found a power supply for the booster on ebay.
The DB210 is from 2018 so it really isn't that old in Digitrax's lineup.
NILEHowever when I opened the package I realized that it is an AC power adapter.
I'm curious as to what made you draw this conclusion. Photos would help.
I miss Randy too.
Regards, Ed
I finally got the right power supply but still having issues. I have three components, DCS150, a DB210 opto, and a DT400 controller. I have the DCS150 wired for 1/2 the layout and the DB210 wired for the other 1/2. They do not share a ground wire and the track segments are double isolated. When I plug in the DB210 all seems to work properly. When I connect the loconet cable to the DCS150 it give me four short beeps followed by a pair of double beeps. After all the beeps are done, all the lights apear to be correct on both the command station and the booster. However, the DT400 says "idle" and I cannot seem to get the controller to respond to anything.
The digitrax website says the DB200+ should have a wire from the Config A to the Ground, mine did not come with that jumper wire. Do I need it?
Why do I lose my controller when I plug in the loco net? I thought adding a booster was supposed to be easy. This has been a pain in the butt.
NILEThe digitrax website says the DB200+ should have a wire from the Config A to the Ground, mine did not come with that jumper wire. Do I need it?
Yes. IF you have a DB200+
But you said you have a DB210. Which is it?
Four short beeps on startup is normal.
Four short beeps after startup is a short circuit on the output.
Four long beeps is an improper voltage input.
It helps to run a ground wire between the DCS210 and the DB booster.
NILEWhen I connect the loconet cable to the DCS150 it give me four short beeps followed by a pair of double beeps.
Do you have another Loconet cable to try?
NILEI have three components, DCS150
What is a DCS150?
Can you post a photo of your current setup?
You need to double check what you have and what works. Digitrax does not have a DCS150, they have a DCS100 and a DCS200, and they have a DB150. Generally DCSxxx products are command staion/boosters and DBxxx products are boosters only; however, the DB150 is actually a command station/booster (I believe the only 'DB' product that is). They do have a DB210, but since it is a booster only it won't work without a separate command station. Digitrax does have a command station/booster DCS210, and since it is a command station/booster it will work by itself, but will not work with a DB150 plugged in unless one of them is configured as a booster because you can only have one command station. What I suspect you have is a DCS210 and a DB150 and the DCS210 works by itself but not with the DB150 plugged in. If so, then the DB150 needs the jumper between Config A and ground to tell it to operate as a booster only instead of a command station/booster.
Here's the manual for the DB150. On page 38: "6 Beeps DB150 has been powered up as a command station in a system that already has an active command station."
Thanks guys, I thought it was a DCS150 because I have been using it as my command station. However I double checked and it is a DB150 and I am trying to use a DB210 as the booster. How do those pieces change how they are configured?
NILEWhen I plug in the DB210 all seems to work properly. When I connect the loconet cable to the DCS150 it give me four short beeps followed by a pair of double beeps...
tstage Wall warts are AC-to-DC power supplies because you are converting the 120VAC from your house outlet to the required DC for the unit.
Wall warts are AC-to-DC power supplies because you are converting the 120VAC from your house outlet to the required DC for the unit.
"Wall wart" is simply the form factor and does not define the device's electrical characteristics. See for example these. (And actually read the category description at the top of the page!)
NILE Thanks guys, I thought it was a DCS150 because I have been using it as my command station.
Thanks guys, I thought it was a DCS150 because I have been using it as my command station.
So you didn't know you had a DB150 even though it says, well, DB150 right on the front?
And you apparently didn't read the DB210 instructions (if that's what you really have) that say that it needs a DC power supply?
NILE I have the DCS150 wired for 1/2 the layout and the DB210 wired for the other 1/2. They do not share a ground wire and the track segments are double isolated.
I have the DCS150 wired for 1/2 the layout and the DB210 wired for the other 1/2. They do not share a ground wire and the track segments are double isolated.
And you didn't add the ground (actually a common) that the instructions say is required (unless you want to risk a fire from an overheated LocoNet cable)?
Too much speculation/misinformation and way too little RTFM in this thread. Good luck and have fun. I'm outta here!
A ground wire between a DB210 Opto and the command station is not used on an Opto-coupled booster.
If the DB150 is to be the Command station then no jumper is used between Config A and Ground. Connecting a jumper will disable its Command station.
Martin Myers