Since you're new to DCC, I would start out with just plugging in a regular (non-sound) decoder and get used to programming etc. with that - adding momentum, adjusting the light settings, etc. (I second the recommendation of a TCS decoder, they work great and I find them easy to program.) It's not that hard to add sound, but maybe not ideal for someone just starting out with DCC.
Then for your second engine, maybe buy a DCC/sound-equipped engine like a Bachmann "Sound Value" engine and see how you like it. Play around with the volume settings, choose different horns and bells, etc.
BTW remember if you add a sound decoder, you also have to find a place for a speaker (and it's enclosure) in the engine. Some engines have a pre-made enclosure area, like in the fuel tank under the engine - you can get a 1" round speaker in there. You can tell if it has that because there will be openings (holes or slots) on the bottom of the fuel tank, facing down towards the track.
IbanezGuinessI'm getting back into HO trains after a 35 year hiatus
Lot's of us have that t-shirt.
Sound, it is undoubtedly more expensive, I like it, some hate it. In the words of George Carlin, "Take a chance" and go for sound. George may have added an additonal adverb.
This is a package that includes sound. IMPORTANT, ESU decoders don't come with the sound you want for your engine. The usual DCC dealers will add a sound package specific for a GP35 (later than my modeling era) if you ask Here is one option
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
jjdamnitFor decoders with built-in Energy Storage Devices (Keep Alive® Power Xtender®, etc.)...Yes, these are more expensive than non-ESD-equipped decoders but, for installations where space is limited the ESD is built into the decoder to save precious room.
Not to be confused with ESD (electrostatic discharge), which is why decoders come in those dark, shiny, anti-static pouches to protect them from microshocks that could take out senstive components on the decoder board.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Again thank you everyone, all of this has been very helpful. I now understand many of the terms I had read about but had no idea what it was.
IbanezGuinessThank you very much, that was very helpful.
You're very welcome. Motor-control is way more important to me than sound and TCS (and ESU) decoders are excellent in that regard. I want any and all of my locomotives to start out at 1sMPH or <. With either manufacturer's decoder they will do that right out of the box w/o me needing to even tweak the start voltage (CV2).
Hello All,
"DCC Ready" typically means it has a National Moder Railroad Association (NMRA) compliant 8-pin plug with a dummy plug installed.
Decoders come in pin configurations from 8- to 21-pins.
The more pins the more "Functions".
A function can be a lighting effect or sound, depending on the decoder.
I have had good luck with Digitrax Decoders.
These have 9-pins on the decoder Printed Circuit Board (PCB). A 9-pin to 8-pin NMRA compliant plug harness is included with some decoders.
Others have a 9-pin to bare wire harness for applications where hardwiring or soldering the decoder in place is necessary.
For non-sound applications I use the DH166 series (six [6]) function outputs or DH126 series (two [2]) function outputs. The letter(s) after the digits denote the harness type:
For decoders with built-in Energy Storage Devices (Keep Alive® Power Xtender®, etc.) which act as a short-term "battery" to allow the locomotives to continue operation over sections of track where the power is intermittent, I prefer the Train Control System (TCS) decoders.
Yes, these are more expensive than non-ESD-equipped decoders but, for installations where space is limited the ESD is built into the decoder to save precious room.
The KAM4-LED decoder also has resistors built onto the PCB so you don't have to add them when using LEDs.
Most modern decoders are NMRA compliant, which means they will all play well with each other.
There are some exceptions when it comes to sound decoders but for the most part, non-sound decoders will mix & match.
If you are planning on running locomotives that are Multi-Unit or Consisted I would recommend running the same manufacturer and series decoders in all units.
I have a consist of four (4) Bachmann GP40s. I re-motored all of them and installed Digitrax 166P decoders for consistent running across all four (4) units.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to upgrade a non-sound decoder to add sound. However, you can install a sound decoder without speakers and add sound later.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Nowadays, most motor only decoders are very good. I use NCE and the ESU lok-pilot for my railroad. As mentioned TCS would be fine as well. If you ever want to add sound, I would recommend ESU as they have the best sound in my opinion.
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
Yesterday is History.
Tomorrow is a Mystery.
But today is a Gift, that is why it is called the Present.
Thank you very much, that was very helpful.
Ibanez,
I would recommend a motor-only decoder for now then add sound at a later date, when discretionary funds are more readily available for that. TCS is my go-to motor-only decoder and their T1 is recommended for the Athearn "DCC-ready" GP35.
Here's the link and how-to installation for that on the TCS website:
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1060
Cost for a T1 decoder is $25 from Litchfield Station. And they have VERY reasonable shipping costs.
HTH,
I'm getting back into HO trains after a 35 year hiatus. I bought a prebuilt 4x8 layout with plans to expand it down the road. It aslo came with a NCP Power Cab DCC system.
I purchased a Athearn BN Gp35 that is "DCC Ready" and would like a suggestion on what decoder to buy. I've been doing some reading and watching YouTube videos but I'm overall confused as what to get.
Sound is not a must but it would be a plus, but right now I need to keep the budget on the smaller side as well.
Thanks!