Decoder/sound recommendation for Oriental Limited F3A?

[SeeYou190]

ChrisVA

The engine runs great on DC. Very smooth slow speed performance. 

Nothing to do with your question, but I have a curiosity...

How loud are the gears in your Oriental F unit? I have an Overland FP-7 that runs very smooth with great low speed performance, but at "running speed" it gets very noisy.

Did yours get better after it ran a while?

-Kevin

[tstage]

Bayfield Transfer Railway

Me, I recommend Soundtraxx Tsunami II. I get them from Spring Creek Trains. I prefer it to the ESU because I like the Soundtraxx feature that when load on the train increases, sound volume automatically does too.

I know that ESU has had the load/no load feature with the Loksound V2.0 steam sound files since the mid-2000s.  With the diesel I think you have to press a function button to mimic that.  AFAIK, TCS has had the feature since they first got into the sound market in 2013.

Tom

[Bayfield Transfer Railway]

As long as you have two wires going to the motor, it's easy.  It becomes tricky when one side of the motor is simply grounded to the chassis.

Me, I recommend Soundtraxx Tsunami II.  I get them from Spring Creek Trains.  I prefer it to the ESU because I like the Soundtraxx feature that when load on the train increases, sound volume automatically does too.

Tsunami I they made the mistake of not having Back EMF on by default.  They fixed that.

[tstage]

Correct, Henry.  That was what I was trying to point out with the link to the descripton for that particular sound file so that the OP knew that he had options - i.e. if a GN F3A specific horn & bell were important to them.  Otherwise, he can just use the default horn & bell that comes with the sound file.

Tom

[BigDaddy]

tstage

You'll need to know what horn & bell GN used if you want it to be prototypically accurate.

Changing those is a programming issue, the sound package loaded on the decoder will come with a variety of each.

[JDawg]

tstage

Chris,

You would need a LokProgrammer to download the sound file to your Loksound decoder so you'll need to purchase one with the sound file already installed.  TTE, Litchfield Station, and other DCC vendors usually offer this as a free service or option when you purchase the decoder online.

Here's the ESU webpage for the Loksound EMD 16-567 prime movers sound files.  Someone can correct me but for your F3 you'll want the EMD 16-567B (3rd one down).  Click "more" in the description to see what sounds are offered with the sound file.  You'll need to know what horn & bell GN used if you want it to be prototypically accurate.  (Or you can just use the default sound, if that doesn't matter to you.)  Clicking "Demo sound and Functions" below will allow you to hear the sound file and see what sound each function button will activate.

If you are going to order from the TTE website and go with the Loksound 5 micro w/o no connectors, you want the ESU 58823 "EMD" decoder.  Over on the right side of the page you'll see "--Please Select--" under EMD Sound Files.  This will allow you to choose the correct sound file for your locomotive.  Using the ESU page link above, the "artical number" for the EMD 16-567B sound file (on the right side of the page) is "S0746".  Make sure that is displayed before you click "Add to cart".  That way TTE knows to install that sound file in the decoder before shipping it off to you.

Since your Oriental F3 already has a circuit board (PCB) for the electrical connections, I would just hardwire your decoder to the appropriate traces.  You'll need to determine what traces go to the (+) & (-) motor contacts* and track power.

[*Hint: The bottom side motor contact is usually (-) so the one at the top should be (+)]

Before you purchase any decoder, determine how much headspace you have in the shell above the motor and the gear towers.  You might be able to fit a full-size Loksound 5 decoder on top of the motor.  This will give you a higher stall limit than the Loksound 5 micro (1.5A vs 0.75A).  That will also help you determine what size speakers will fit on the ends.

It would also be good if you can verify that your motor brushes are isolated from your chassis.  This can be done with an inexpensive amp meter and is important because a dead short (from a derailment) could make your decoder go *poof*.

Sorry I don't have any install photos or links to ones to help you further, Chris.

Tom

I buy my decoders from Yankee Dabbler. They have great prices and if you leave a message in the order notes with the sound file you want they will install it for you at no charge. 

[tstage]

Chris,

I'm glad to hear your F3A runs smoothly on DC - especially slow speed.  That's waaaaay more important to me than sound.

You would need a LokProgrammer to download the sound file to your Loksound decoder so you'll need to purchase one with the sound file already installed.  TTE, Litchfield Station, and other DCC vendors usually offer this as a free service or option when you purchase the decoder online.

Here's the ESU webpage for the Loksound EMD 16-567 prime movers sound files.  Someone can correct me but for your F3 you'll want the EMD 16-567B (3rd one down).  Click "more" in the description to see what sounds are offered with the sound file.  You'll need to know what horn & bell GN used if you want it to be prototypically accurate.  (Or you can just use the default sound, if that doesn't matter to you.)  Clicking "Demo sound and Functions" below will allow you to hear the sound file and see what sound each function button will activate.

If you are going to order from the TTE website and go with the Loksound 5 micro w/o no connectors, you want the ESU 58823 "EMD" decoder.  Over on the right side of the page you'll see "--Please Select--" under EMD Sound Files.  This will allow you to choose the correct sound file for your locomotive.  Using the ESU page link above, the "artical number" for the EMD 16-567B sound file (on the right side of the page) is "S0746".  Make sure that is displayed before you click "Add to cart".  That way TTE knows to install that sound file in the decoder before shipping it off to you.

Since your Oriental F3 already has a circuit board (PCB) for the electrical connections, I would just hardwire the decoder to the appropriate traces.  You'll need to determine what traces go to the (+) & (-) motor contacts* and track power though.

[*Hint: The bottom side motor contact is usually (-) so the one at the top should be (+)]

Before you purchase any decoder, determine how much headspace you have in the shell above the motor and the gear towers.  You might be able to fit a full-size Loksound 5 decoder on top of the motor.  This will give you a higher stall limit than the Loksound 5 micro (1.5A vs 0.75A).  That will also help you determine what size speakers will fit on the ends.

It would also be good if you can verify that your motor brushes are isolated from your chassis.  This can be done with an inexpensive amp meter and is important because a dead short (from a derailment) could make your decoder go *poof*.

Sorry I don't have any install photos or links to ones to help you further, Chris.  Just take your time and think through the installation - including how you will remove the shell for access/maintenance of the decoder/motor/gears.  That's why I suggested installing mini-connectors for your speakers.  Twisting paired wires together will also aid in "taming" them to keep them away from moving parts - e.g. motor driveshafts.

Here's a motor-only decoder & keep-alive installation I did in a brass boxcab that demontrates that: (Click photos to enlarge)

The front & rear LED headlights are wired with 34 AWG magnet wire to the 4-contact connector so that the shell can be completely disconnected & removed from the chassis.

Kapton tape is also good and can be used by itself or as additional help in taming wiring.  It's also quite handy for insulating flat surfaces from shorts and doesn't leave a messy residue like electrical tape after it ages or gets warm.

HTH,

Tom

[ChrisVA]

tstage

Chris,

First question: How does it run on DC?  If it doesn't run well on DC it won't run well on DCC.

You really can't go wrong with either ESU, TCS, or Soundtraxx.  I have a number of Loksound & TCS Wow decoders in both steam & diesel locomotives and the motor control is terrific.  Although I do not have one, I've heard the new Tsunami2 decoders have improved motor control comparable to Loksound & TCS.

From the photos, I would go with a Loksound 5 micro and mount it directly on top of the Canon can motor with Gorilla mounting tape.  You could then mount a speaker/speakers up in either/both end(s) of the shell, above the gear towers.  If you can fit speakers in the shell, I would make the speaker connections unpluggable so that you can remove the shell for maintenance.

Tom

 

The engine runs great on DC. Very smooth slow speed performance. 

I have never done an installation using a Loksound decoder before. Does this come with the F3A Diesel sounds already on it or do I have to download the sound files?  Newbie at doing this so links to exact decoder or decent tutorial for getting sound on it appreciated!  I've found these 2 links. No plugs involved as I'm just doing a "hardwire" installation, correct?

https://tonystrains.com/product/esu-58823-loksound-v5-dcc-micro-single-wires-sound-decoder-factory-sound-file-no-programming

https://store.sbs4dcc.com/ESU58823LokSound5MicroNMRADCCSoundDecoder-Hardwire.aspx

 

 

[JDawg]

ESU all the way!

[tstage]

Chris,

First question: How does it run on DC?  If it doesn't run well on DC it won't run well on DCC.

You really can't go wrong with either ESU, TCS, or Soundtraxx.  I have a number of Loksound & TCS Wow decoders in both steam & diesel locomotives and the motor control is terrific.  Although I do not have one, I've heard the new Tsunami2 decoders have improved motor control comparable to Loksound & TCS.

From the photos, I would go with a Loksound 5 micro and mount it directly on top of the Canon can motor with Gorilla mounting tape.  You could then mount a speaker/speakers up in either/both end(s) of the shell, above the gear towers.  If you can fit speakers in the shell, I would make the speaker connections unpluggable so that you can remove the shell for maintenance.

Tom

[ChrisVA]

Can someone suggest a good decoder w/sound setup for this loco?

I'm somewhat of a newbie with DCC installs but want to give this a try.

Also any tips on how to mount decoder or keep from touching "hot" spots it should not touch?

Thanks!