Yes, now, as I have it programmed properly, it's time to tear down my current pike & start all over. Thanks everyone again.
MOAK Gentlemen; thank you one and all for your input. Reed switch? I had no idea until I put the board under my magnifying glass to discover that it was not a resistor or a fuse of some kind. The two little "paddles" were stuck together. I gently pulled them apart using two sets of tweezers. If I ever need a reset I'll just slide them back together. the last 2 hours have been quite productive getting this thing programmed. I also disconnected the powerpax booster. No need. What a great forum as no one mentioned my ignorance with DCC sound. This is my first one. Let the fun begin
Gentlemen; thank you one and all for your input. Reed switch? I had no idea until I put the board under my magnifying glass to discover that it was not a resistor or a fuse of some kind. The two little "paddles" were stuck together. I gently pulled them apart using two sets of tweezers. If I ever need a reset I'll just slide them back together. the last 2 hours have been quite productive getting this thing programmed. I also disconnected the powerpax booster. No need. What a great forum as no one mentioned my ignorance with DCC sound. This is my first one. Let the fun begin
Rich
Alton Junction
The jumper method works similarly, and the word "reset" is announced to indicate success. So, for the OP, the question remains, does his QSI decoder have a magnetic reed switch or a jumper.
Lastspikemike richhotrain 03 is the short address. Of course so the locomotive has reset to the default settings. If it can be reset it can be programmed.
richhotrain 03 is the short address.
03 is the short address.
Of course so the locomotive has reset to the default settings. If it can be reset it can be programmed.
Lastspikemike The Q1 manual also says on page 21/22 that programming on a program track may not work. If not then you have to program in zoos mode (full voltage) or the decoder may not accept CV changes.
The Q1 manual also says on page 21/22 that programming on a program track may not work. If not then you have to program in zoos mode (full voltage) or the decoder may not accept CV changes.
MOAKI have a Digitrax DSC51 and I use a program booster.
Just under the heading "try everything", have you tried programming the decoder without the booster? Might sound crazy, but when I got my Digitrax PR4 earlier this year I hooked it up with the booster I had used on the old PR3. I had trouble programming some engines, and found if I did it without the booster it worked perfectly. I've programmed a variety of decoders since then without the booster and had no problems.
MOAK Hmmm, the speaker delivers the word " reset " each and every time I call it up. ( still # 03 ) this has given me an idea. something is stuck or frozen. Otherwise it wouldnt say "reset" every time. And as long as it's stuck in reset mode it will not program.. I'm gonna check this in the morn
Hmmm, the speaker delivers the word " reset " each and every time I call it up. ( still # 03 ) this has given me an idea. something is stuck or frozen. Otherwise it wouldnt say "reset" every time. And as long as it's stuck in reset mode it will not program.. I'm gonna check this in the morn
I wonder if the reset reed switch is stuck in the reset position.
Joe
Are you doing Programming on the Main (OPS mode)? That is better than the Programming Track. QSI decoders don't seem to like the Programming Track even with a Programming Track Booster.
Are you trying to reset with the 3-set CV steps, a magnetic wand, or the jumper?
MOAK Yes, unfortunately it will not allow me to set cv62 to 0. Yes, I've attempted the 3 step procedure multiple times. Once I got up at 4:00 AM thinking I might surprise it into submission.
Yes, unfortunately it will not allow me to set cv62 to 0. Yes, I've attempted the 3 step procedure multiple times. Once I got up at 4:00 AM thinking I might surprise it into submission.
QSI decoders can be quirky. Trust me, I have lots of them.
If the 3-step reset did not work, some QSI decoders use a magnetic wand for the reset.
Other QSI decoders have a reset jumper on the decoder. If yours has a reset jumper, turn off power, remove the jumper and restore the track power. There will be an audible acknowledgment from the engine at the end of the reset sequence (usually 3 toots of the whistle/horn).
thanks for your informed responses, I've checked each of your suggestions again. One never knows, I may have missed something very minor. However, I'm thinking more and more that the decoder is faulty. It's used, I got a great deal and the units look good. So I'll actually run it as is. Throttling up and down realistically can be a blast once you get it right.
You may have already tried this, but let me ask you anyhow. Have you tried to Program on the Main (POM)?
Programming on the Main is also referred to as Operations (OPS) Mode programming. You will need to turn off verbal programming acknowledgment (set CV62 to 0) for the long address to be set properly. I see that you are struggling to reset CV62, but you should be able to do it in OPS mode unless the decoder is faulty.
How are you trying to reset the QSI decoder? As you probably know, QSI uses a 3-step procedure.
I can appreciate your frustration. If no one here can help (I can't), I suggest checking this group out:
https://groups.io/g/QSIndustries
It's got about 1200 members, all with a definite interest in QSI decoders.
Ed
Hello all. About a year ago I got a killer deal on an Intermountain FP7A & B unit. I'm understanding now why it was a killer deal. I have a Digitrax DSC51 and I use a program booster. I have tried everything in a fruitless attempt to program the QSI, including "blast mode". CV62 is impossible to reset, or any other CV for that matter. I've left the sound on, I've attempted the menu used for a full re-set, all to no avail. Example; press program to direct, ( I've tried all the modes) press steps, press 3, At this step, it will either blink #3 continuosly, or if I'm lucky, show a value of 000. I key in 25, I then key the CV-WR, it blinks once, then reads 25. Wow, success!! NOT!! Just a big tease. I'll set it back on the pike and as soon as I call it up, the conductor screams loudly, RESET. I've been working on this off and on for about a year. I've read, I've watched videos, I even contacted digitrax for help. They just re-iterated everything I had already attempted to do, so as a fool, I've attempted to do this over and over again with zero results. I'm to the point now of giving up and settling for the factory settings, pulling the shell off, yet another time, and muffling the speaker so the loco isn't so loud. Posting up here is my last resort, in the hopes that I'm missing something really simple. Thanks all for any input, I'm looking forward to the coversation.