Have you tried a solder sucker? It's basically a spring-loaded reverse syringe that will get old solder out pretty well.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Thank you to everyone for your responses. I just cleaned up my Tortoise machines with 91% ISO and a Q-tip. Though the tabs don't look "new" they certainly are much improved after this treatment. Delicate movement is the order here, less a scrub and more a gentle rub, letting the alcohol do the work. All of the tabs work when I add the adapter so I'll settle for that.
Turns out I solved two problems at once. The second problem involved retrieving a lost Q-tip that ended up inside the ISO bottle. (Old fingers, what can I say?) My solution was to use a reverse grip tweezers to capture the Q-Tip and withdraw it. Simple solution when you think about it. One of the joys of this hobby is coming up with solutions to the thousand-and-one issues that pop up during every work session. Figuring out the "best" way to resolve those issues is what makes this fun.
Again, thanks for the advice. We're good. Robert
It's just a cheaper PCB material, you find it in all sorts of consumer goods and toys. It's not all fancy FR4 with solder mask out there. For a single sided board, it does the job, it's just not meant for frequent solder/desolder cycles and delaminated eaier than copper on FR4.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
You need to be very careful when removing solder from the Tortoise tabs.
I sold over 50 used Tortoises last winter on eBay when I decided to go with spring-loaded Peco turnouts on my new layout. Whenever I encountered that varnish-like residue, I left it alone.
The tabs on the Tortoise are not metal. They are some sort of fiber board with a metallic coating with the appearance of tinfoil. If you overwork those tabs, that metallic surface will peel off.
The other issue with removing solder from Tortoise tabs is the need to expose the holes that the wires are inserted into. Desoldering braid is one way to do it, but I use a length of piano wire to open the hole while the solder is still hot and flowing.
Rich
Alton Junction
Nope, I meant 99%. 91% is available from most pharmacies and stores with medical supplies. 99% I've never seen at my local pharmacy so I purchase it online from Amazon.
91% alcohol would work for removing flux. However, it contains more water than 99% so it won't clean it off quite as quickly.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstage Robert, I use 99% alcohol and a Q-tip for cleaning flux off metal tabs, pads, and circuit boards. The alcohol won't harm the circuit boards at all. Just don't be over-zealous with the mechanical swabbing around delicate components like ICs. Tom
Robert,
I use 99% alcohol and a Q-tip for cleaning flux off metal tabs, pads, and circuit boards. The alcohol won't harm the circuit boards at all. Just don't be over-zealous with the mechanical swabbing around delicate components like ICs.
Do you perhaps mean 91% isopropyl alcohol? 99% alcohol does not seem to be a "household" product available otc.
Robert
I've used desoldering braid to remove the solder from Tortoise machines used on a previous layout. My plan is to use Berrett Hill's Switch Machine Adapters this time around. I've gotten better with solder, but the adapters look cool.
However the old solder left some residue on the Tortoise machine circuit board pads, most likely flux that looks pretty messy. Has anyone done this before, and if so, any further advice? Does the residue need to be removed or is it benign? Even more important perhaps, is there a recommended method for removing the residue? Cody Grivno recommends Denatured Alcohol to remove this flux residue from track before painting it. Would this treatment do something to corrupt the circuit board pads on the Tortoise? Track is track, a circuit board pad is not, and, I'm thinking, might be more delicate than nickel silver. Best practice?
Thanks for your help.