I have nothing put together yet. I'm going with the Bachmann E-Z command DCC control panel, e-z track on a 4X8 table. I'm adapting the Madison (WI) Central to be a steel town instead of quarry. I have Walthers rolling mill as the main bldg. I want to run an Amtrak (not DCC) on an outer track. I have a #6 LH crossover to connect the two rail systems. My main issue will be wiring. Space between track feeders? Making control panel for turn-outs? Anxious to get started.
Don't do that. You should never have DC and DCC on the same layout at the same time. There are ways of isolating the two, but one mistake and some very expensive equipment will be toast.
Either decide to run DC or DCC. Some will wire things so their layout can safely be DC or DCC, but not both, but these are sometimes transitional layouts or the user has a lot invested in DC equipment and doesn't want to convert.
With no layout and no accumulation of legacy equipment, you're free to choose either DC or DCC. Enjoy your choice!
And
As a new member, your posts will be moderated so you may not see them for a while after posting. Patience is a virtue.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Welcome to the forum. I'm glad you are asking questions BEFORE beginning to build your layout. You just might avoid a lot of the mistakes we made when building our layouts.
You state that you want to power the layout using DCC yet retain an Amtrak loco (still DC powered). Although the Bachmann and a few other DCC systems allow running one DC loco, I think the better approach would be to convert your DC loco to DCC. There are lots of YouTube videos demonstrating the conversion process or a LHS can do this for you if you're not ready to try it yourself. The more you run with DCC, the less satisfied you'll be with your DC loco. DCC just offers so much more operating potential and realism. Contrary to the opinions of the "Old Heads," I've always found that DCC makes more of a difference on a small layout than a large layout.
The Bachmann E-Z Command DCC system is rather limited and you might just end up replacing it anyway. This could have been a decently expandable starter system but Bachmann failed to include any mention of its Walkaound Companion throttle in the E-Z Command manual so few users knew it was even available. Since sales of the Walkaround Companion were so poor (again, no marketing), Bachmann discontinued producing it which effectively doomed the E-Z Command system. Oddly enough, Bachmann still sells the Walkaround Companion Connector Panel for creating a throttle bus for the Walkaround Companion throttle. Bachmann also warns against trying to connect two E-Z Command systems together for multiple throttles.
Instead, I would consider stepping up to at least the NCE Power Cab, the Digitrax Zephyr Express, or the MRC Prodigy Express. All of these systems offer far more features than the Bachmann E-Z Command system and all are expandable.
As far as wiring a 4' by 8' layout, I would create a power bus using 16 gauge paired wire in a "+" shape. Feeders of 24 gauge wire could then be connected to the track above each leg of the power bus. That should provide plenty of power capacity for a 4' by 8' layout. Suitcase or soldered bus/feeder connections are your choice.
As far as a control panel for turnout control, you have lots of different options ranging from dirt cheap to "cool" but expensive. I no longer use powered turnouts but, years ago, I built a turnout control panel for peanuts and it was the easiest setup to use, even for young kids. I was using Atlas Snap Switches and the three wire method of powering the turnouts. I connected a common "power" wire between one AC Accessory post on an old power pack and the "center" connection on each turnout. I then connected a wire between the other AC Accesory post and a metal "activation" wand. I next created a track plan map and mounted it on the face of the control panel. Small holes were drilled in each turnout route indicated on the track map. Small machine screws were then placed in each hole and a wire terminal loop, washer and nut were installed on the underside of each screw. Wires were then run from each track map wire terminal loop to the appropriate left or right post on the matching physical turnout. At this point, all the operator had to do was trace the desired route on the track map using the "activation" wand and the turnouts would align accordingly as the wand touched the machine screw heads along the desired route. Simple and easy to operate!
Hornblower
I totally agree with Mr. Beasley! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE DC AND DCC SIMULTANEOUSLY ON YOUR LAYOUT!!!I run dual mode, DC or DCC one or the other but never at the same time. The wheels shorting the two systems at isolating gaps will be fatal. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Buy once, cry once. I'd go with either the Powercab or a Digitrax Zephyr and skip DC all together.
Yes it can be an expensive hobby. That means you sometimes have to wait to get what you want, or you have to find a way to make more money. It's you first post and we don't know you. You could be 14 with you whole life ahead of you or you could be 74, disabled and making more money isn't really going to happen.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hello All,
I agree with the rest of the responders to NOT mix DC and DCC on the same track plan.
If you have to run both systems on the same pike they need to be completely separate track plans.
You can run a DC locomotive on a DCC system. This is accomplished by what is known as zero bit stretching.
If you do decide to run a DC locomotive on a DCC system you will need to remove the DC locomotive when not running.
The Bachmann EZ Command system along with its incompatible bigger brother Dynamis System is a dead-end system.
I use the Dynamis System and it is maxed out at 5 amps after adding the Pro Box and larger booster. You can add two more throttles but that's it.
To add a programming track I had to use the NCE Auto SW. For the reversing wye section, I added an MRC AD520.
With most other DCC systems these functions are included in the command station/booster.
For turnout control, there are many ways to go about it depending on the type of turnout motors.
The main types of turnout motors are solenoid (Atlas, PECO), slow-motion Tortise type, and servo.
Each requires a specific type of activation.
For solenoid type, a Capacitive Discharge Unit is recommended especially for PECO units.
Once the type of turnout motor is used then you can plan your control pannel.
Welcome, keep the questions coming and...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Some years ago our club toasted a NCE five amp booster trying to run DC and DCC. The DC throttles could handle 2.5 amps.
We had a layout with 14 blocks going from DC to DCC and tried it. Couple guys gabbing and a loco crossed.
Never again.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I do what Mel does, DC or DCC, never both at the same time.
Install a decoder in the Amtrak.
Mike.
My You Tube
Ya if your Amtrak engine was made in this century it probably has a DCC eight-pin receptacle on the light board. Unplug the DC "dummy" plug, and plug in a DCC decoder. A good non-sound decoder can be had for around $20-25.
wjstixYa if your Amtrak engine was made in this century it probably has a DCC eight-pin receptacle on the light board. Unplug the DC "dummy" plug, and plug in a DCC decoder.
Yes, it is good general practice to choose either DC or DCC. Choose a side of the road and stick with it... otherwise...
"Squish Like Grape"
-Kevin
Living the dream.