So I had recently got my WDK-KAT-1 decoder kit from Train Control System for my old KATO HO Scale SD40 diesel model. Here's the link to the site page: https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1363
I got my KATO model sometime back in 2008/2009 and it still operates flawlessly. However, after installing the decoder kit, including the motherboard, speakers, and the decoder itself, I was met with some unpleasent results when running my locomotive on my layout.
For one, my engine doesn't respond automatically when I turn up the speed dial or respond to a function. And two, and it's the worst bunch of it, the sound was glitching and breaking apart while running. I could no longer make out engine, horn and bell sounds.
I tried everything I could to solve this issue. I resetted the decoder back to its factory settings, but it didn't work. I replace all the original wirings at first before soldering in some new ones. I followed every step to properly install the decoder and everything. The decoder was still showing troubleshoots for slow response and sound glitches.
Here are some photos of the locomotive and the install decoder kit:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wgfeRa5o9gpWCCTMA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NQtFAZfry8enC25u5
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2i8GMNQua8B4pZJq5
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RoNYWW8g5bm39VRN7
Does anyone here have any ideas on what the problem may be and how to solve it?
This thread should probably be in the DCC section. I don't know anything about DCC s I cannot directly help with your problem, but I can make a picture visible so hopefully someone can help out.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Is the motherboard shorting to the frame, by chance? I would run some kapton tape along the bottom of the motherboard anywhere it makes contact with the chassis.
Also, double-check your wiring and soldering to make sure nothing is shorting to the decoder. I see an over abundance of solder on each end of the motherboard.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I see a couple of problems there. Those motor tabs - make sure they aren;t touching anything. You probably should put some heat shrink over them and reconnect the wires. Pn the left side of the picture that Kevin made visible, the red and black wires - that looks like a cold solder joint, and also like there may be some bridging between the two connections - is that the speaker connection? That would account for glitchy sound if there is a poor connection and/or intermittent short. And those connections of the track pickups look pretty iffy, especially the giant blob of solder on the left one of the above picture.
What sort of soldering tool are you using? I woudl take some spare fine wire and practice bit bit before going back to the decoder. It's a shame there is no more Radio Shack to go pick up a piece of copper clad board to practice solding wires to small pads with. You can get small boards on Amazon, meant to make Arduino SHields, that are the same sort of thing, perforated PCBs with copper plated holes, to practice soldering to.
Make sure your iron is clean - get some tip tinner, as well as one of the brass wool pads to keep it clean. If the tip is nice and shiny, you'll have much less trouble getting the heat on the joint without holding the iron on too long or pressing hard.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker It's a shame there is no more Radio Shack to go pick up a piece of copper clad board to practice solding wires to small pads with. You can get small boards on Amazon, meant to make Arduino SHields, that are the same sort of thing, perforated PCBs with copper plated holes, to practice soldering to. --Randy
This post is aimed at the OP, not you Randy.
Without knowing where you (the OP) may live. Watch for TVs, radios, phones, anything electronic being thrown out by your neighbors. Maybe you have electronic junk laying around the house. If not then go to second hand stores, yard sales and buy cheap (Free is good) it does not need to work, broken is better. Open the item up and start playing with the Circuit boards and componets. Solder wires on and unsolder other parts. You can't hurt free junk. Yes, you do need soldering pratice.
Those WOW sound decoder instructions say something like "USE NO FLUX ON CIRCUIT BOARDS". You may need to ask for help on here on the BEST WAY FOR YOU to solder on these Circuit Boards.
A shot in the dark here...maybe if you have a local Hobby Shop close by, see if they have any old DC boards from DC to DCC conversions laying in a box somewhere that you could have a few to practice on.
PC101Those WOW sound decoder instructions say something like "USE NO FLUX ON CIRCUIT BOARDS".
I always use rosin solder when soldering wires to a decoder to ensure a good, solid solder joint. The key is to have a shiny soldering tip and a hot enough soldering iron to quickly melt the solder...but not smoking hot. After soldering, I clean off any leftover flux residue from the decoder board with 91% or better alcohol and a cotton swab. For soldering wires to decoders I keep my soldering iron in the 650-700oF range. Haven't cooked a TCS or any other decoder brand yet...