Two ways to do it.
A single pole single throw switch, insier the switch in one lead going to one of the rails of the stall tracks. Be consistent, break the same side rail to each track. Depending on the turntable, you may or may not need to insulate the rail you are controlling with the switch.
A double pole single throw switch, and break boith wires feeding the stall track. Same idea on insulating the rails at the turntable end, again depends on the turntable you have, if it already feeds power to the stall tracks.
It may be easier to find a single pole double throw or a double pole double throw switch - that just means you will have off with the lever in one direction, off in the middle if it's a center off type of switch, and then on in the other direction.
For the LED - if the resistor is less than 1K, you will need to get 1K resistors. That's 1000 ohms. The resistor connects to the LED, either terminal, it will not matter. The free leg of the LED goes to the wire feeding one rail, the free leg of the resistor goes to the wire feeding the other rail, AFTER the switch. Switch off, power is killed for the track, and the LED is off. Turn the switch on, track power is on, LED lights up. That simple.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Glad you posted this question Starman. I suddenly realized while reading it that on my own layout, when I get around to power the auxilliary tracks, if the phase of the power to the track auxilliary tracks is opposite the turntable rail, there will be a short when the wheels cross the gap.
Seems one might need an automatic reverser on the auxilliary tracks? Or, since the Walthers Turntable automatically changes the phase as it rotates, would it require nothing more than making sure the auxilliary track matches the turntable track at that location and assume it stays that way. Any thoughts guys?
you can use a rotary switch to power just one rail if you only want one track powered. this assumes you have a way to reverse the polarity on the turntable (e.g. auto-reverser, reversing switch)
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
You did not say what brand of turntable you are using.
I use Bowser turntables, and these are driven by a large wooden disk beneath the turntable.
It is very easy to add a small wheel to the turntable drive disk that will close a momentary SPDT lever switch at each track as it aligns with the turntable bridge. This way only the track that is aligned with the turntable bridge is powered, and it is a totally hands-off operation.
Only tracks spaced 180 degrees apart (directly across) will need an additional selector. I just avoid these.
If I wanted an LED indicator light, I would need an additional switch, but since I can easily see what track the bridge is aligned with, this is not necessary.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
starman Hi Randy Thanks for the reply. I have found a Mini Miniature, 2 terminal, 2 position, SPST toggle switch that is rated 6A 125V. My Command Station is a DCS 100, 5A. Will this switch work OK with what I have? By the way, I am using a Walthers turntable. Jack
Yes, those switches will do the job just fine.
I use rotary switches, as shown lower-right in the photo below...
...to select any particular track, then use the On/Off switch, just to the left, to allow power to the selected track. It should be easy to add a light for each position of the rotary switch. (Click on the photo to enlarge it.)
Wayne
starman Where do I install the resistor?
Do not put the LED and resistor in series with the power going to the track! Either excessive current or excessive voltage will cause a LED to fail.
I keep it simple and use momentary NO (Normally Open) pushbuttons. Just wire one to each track you want to keep isolated and push and jhold the button in when you want to move that particular engine. I was using Miniatronics ones but they nor only sell them as a pair of NO-NC buttons. However, Radio Suck and Circuitron have them availabe.
800-9610 PBTN PUSHBUTTON Circuitron
I find having several sound equipped engines sitting there making noises gets tiresome as my work bench is under my turntable and engine terminal. This saves on the noise and also prevents accidentally dropping an engine in the TT pit or running through the back wall of the RH. No need for lights of any kind only a diagram showing button to track relationship. KISS
oldline1
Interesting discussion, but I have to ask why. I have a 9-track roundhouse, and I don't bother to switch off power to individual stalls on my DCC layout.
Rich
Alton Junction
starman If I want to park some of my father’s old DC engines on these tracks, for looks, I want to be able to cut off power to these tracks. If, however, I decide later I want to use some of these tracks for my DCC engines, I want to be able to energize these tracks.
Ahhh... My solution with the lever switches will not meet your needs then.
Since these DC locomotives will never run on your layout, I would not use switches. I would install a "pretty-easy-to-get-to" plug in the wiring to each track that could be used for storage. When you put one of your father's DC locomotives on the track, unplug the track.
This should eliminate any accidental "power-ups" on these tracks.
These should work fine, and they are dirt-cheap on ebay:
If you want indicator lights, get the four pin version and wire an indicator LED through the other two pins. If the light is on, the track is on.
I hope this helps.
This may be a bit of an esoteric point, but I still believe in NOT using track power in DCC for anything except locomotives and rolling stock. So, powering LEDs from the track could be done better. A separate power supply and a double pole toggle rather than a single toggle would technically be a better solution. Yeah, I know, it's not a lot of milliamps, but to me it's really the principle.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I will put my loco's through shutdown when parked in and around the RH. How much power would they draw in their slumber?
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
starman Rich I have several service/storage tracks on the outside of my roundhouse. If I want to park some of my father’s old DC engines on these tracks, for looks, I want to be able to cut off power to these tracks. If, however, I decide later I want to use some of these tracks for my DCC engines, I want to be able to energize these tracks. A switch with an indicator solves my needs. Jack
I want to thank all who repied to my question. Y'all have given me some really great ideas. I believe I now know what to do.
Jack