Overmod I have a request. We now have really well-documented details about reworking this prototype from two masters (Ed and Tom). I think there should be a thread that compares and contrasts the two builds, with some mutual commentary about best current practices and details that needed revision in development. It also occurs to me that the two of you have those lovely OMI Woodard Mikados, and could do the same treatment for 'best practice' steam conversion... if any model deserves 'the best' that one does.
I have a request.
We now have really well-documented details about reworking this prototype from two masters (Ed and Tom). I think there should be a thread that compares and contrasts the two builds, with some mutual commentary about best current practices and details that needed revision in development.
It also occurs to me that the two of you have those lovely OMI Woodard Mikados, and could do the same treatment for 'best practice' steam conversion... if any model deserves 'the best' that one does.
While Ed & I both have that same OMI H-10a 2-8-2 Mike, I think Ed has already completed his conversion and painted it, too. I haven't started mine yet and don't know when I'll get around to painting it.
IIRC, Ed also has a PFM H-10, which is a real beaut in regards to the heavy steam piping and backhead detailing. I almost pulled the trigger on one of those when they had some on the brasstrains.com website a few months back.
Best practice? Finding a method that works for you and gets the task accomplished. Part of the charm/fun/challange in tackling these sorts of installs is stretching and honing your hand skills, as well as your mental skills - e.g. critical thinking, thinking spacially, and putting a sequential plan together. You also have to be flexible and imaginative when you run up against a wall that you didn't even anticipate.
Along with that you want to minimize potential failures and uh ohs due to moving parts or the assembly processes. You also have to think how you want things to come apart - i.e. in the event that you need to disassemble the shell from the chassis to access wiring or for changing a light.
When it comes to "best practices" I sure won't get one for speed. I spend hours thinking through these conversions before I start work, as well in the middle of the project. (Sometimes I have to undo what I just did because I see a better way to do it.) You have to be able to think the process through then make the necessary adjustments when things don't quite go as planned.
I'm hoping there will be a point where I've done enough of these that I can more quickly see what is the best plan of attack. Alas - This is only my 3rd brass locomotive conversion so it might be a lonnnnng while before I get to that point - LOL!
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Nothing to it, really. In fact I was just making some final adjustments on the alignment of the gear towers to try to balance the forward and reverse motion as I seem to get a slight pulsation in one direction and not so much in the other. My next step is to simply run-in the locomotive for several hours at varying speeds in both directions.
Simply a matter of some fussy shimming and careful alignment of the gear towers to the worm shaft on the trucks. In fact, I had the luxury of having a second chassis so I could pick the best running pair of trucks by driving them with a slow speed motor and checking wheel runout with a dial indicator. I also had a shoebox full of old driveline parts and motors, mostly from Proto 2000 and Athearn Genesis engines that sure helps in any of these remotor jobs.
As Tom points out, there really are no two brass engines alike and each one may have their own idiosyncrasies, even if from the same manufacturer.
Nike had that famous ad campaign — Just DO it! That should be the mantra for many modelers that may hesitate to attempt modifications or fine-tuning any model, brass or otherwise.
Thank you for your confidence
Regards, Ed
tstageSo, some aspects of the project were straightforward while others were more of a moving target to overcome. Kinda' like a puzzle: Challenging but gratifying when you finally figure it out.
I think that that is half of what the hobby is all about!
Thanks for the additional info.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
You're welcome, Dave.
I thought that the installation was going to be a bit easier than the previous two brass steam locomotives I converted to DCC and it was in some ways. However, I think it ended up being more challenging, as I went back & forth on the best way to run the wires between the decoder and the motor, trucks, and headlights.
Since I used the smaller 34 AWG magnet wire for the headlights, I thought keeping and affixing them up in the shell then making a detachable connection to them from the decoder made the most sense. That way the shell could be completely removed from the chassis, if needed, and the more delicate magnet wires didn't run the risk of draping over the spinning drive shaft when it was all put together.
Another concern was making sure that none of the wires laid too close to the outer edge of the chassis, where the flange on the shell (for securing the shell to the chassis) might crush them and, thereby, create a short. There also wasn't much overhead clearance between the motor housing and the top of the shell. Since the 4-pin lighting connector - affixed to the shell directly above the motor - took up what remaining space there was, I had to be a little more creative in running the wiring between the decoder and the trucks and motor.
I think I stated in a previous thread that every one of these brass DC-to-DCC conversions has had it's own unique challanges to think throughthen accomplish successfully. And, even then - when I thought I had finally figured it all out, another "gotcha" would come up that I hadn't considered and I'd have to change my strategy.
So, some aspects of the project were straightforward while others were more of a moving target to overcome. Kinda' like a puzzle: Challenging but gratifying when you finally figure it out.
Nice work Tom!
I have a couple of S series Alco brass switchers made by Alco Trains which have similar setups. They aren't anything fancy and they will be on the 'to do' list for some time to come, but I appreciate you providing such a great example of how to upgrade them and convert them to DCC.
The open-frame motor and the can motor - more or less - take up the same amount of space. One just happens to be rectangular while the other is cylindrical.
I've only taken the boxcab up to speed step 60, which is ~31sMPH. Since it's a switcher, I don't expect to operate it at those speeds on a regular basis.
That -seems- like a rather large motor for the chassis ...is the desired top speed about right ??
As a side note, the KA2 module is working quite well. Even with its smallish footprint, it stores a reasonable amount of current. Here are the rough numbers of what I found:
Speed step | Current draw | Time
And that's with both headlights turned on while operating (Rule 17 dimming).
TCS rates the KA2 at 2-6 sec. Obviously the good numbers are primarily due to the efficient Taneda can motor installed in the DES-3 chassis. YMMV with other motors.
I just finished converting my recently acquired NJ Custom Models DES-3 boxcab to DCC. Even though it's boxy, it wasn't without its wiring challenges.
Here's the original open-frame motor with the chassis, as received: (Click photos to enlarge)
Open-frame motor pulled and can motor cannabalized from a brass FM H20-44 switcher. TCS MC2-KA decoder and KA2 installed, as well as front & rear headlights:
View of wiring from the decoder to the KA2 module and headlights. Female connectors allow the shell to be freely detatched from the chassis. The KA2 can also be disconnected, if needed. When in use the connector can be tucked away under the motor.
The braided wire allows flexability but some needed stiffness, too, so that wires don't flop over onto places where it can be damaged or crushed - e.g. rotating drive shafts or bracket along shell for securing it to chassis:
Front & rear headlights functional and working properly for a yard switcher. I do like the appearance of the LEDs using the higher (10KΩ) resistors:
The only thing I need to fix are the silicone tubing drive shafts. The one that came with the DES-3 is fine. The DuBro fuel tubing that I picked up from Hobbytown - although it fits well - the cannula (ID hole) is not concentric to the OD of the tubing and wobbles noticeably.
It was only $3 for 2' of tubing. However, it was sorta expected that the hole of the tubing would be centered. Works well for fuel line but is only adequate for drive shaft.
Next project: An OMI NYC H-10a 2-8-2 Mike. I'm not sure when I'll get to that one...