Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Thanks Mel and everyone else! I got it wired and bench tested - all working
Gary
Yea! You got me! I screwed up, it’s 1 & 8.
I probably had my 3 LEDs in parallel as well. I never end up taking step by step pictures of anything because I don't stop after each step. Just like the latest work on my layout, I intended to get pictures of tracing the backdrop curve onto carboard, cutting it out, then tracing it on the plywood before cutting. Nope. just a finished shot of the cut out piece of subroadbed. So the only pic of that panel is the finished form, no shot of wiring it up, or drilling the holes, or putting in the toggles and the LED bezels.
Sure I would have wired 3 bi-color LEDs in parallel, 2 facing one way, the third reversed, and the whole set then in series with the Torotise. The single turnout sidings were 2 bi-color LEDs, back to back antiparallel, in series with the Tortoise. So the selected one was green, the other route was red. Flip the toggle, the points moved, and the red and green LEDs switched. So both choices were illuminated, the one you were going on in gree, the blocked one in red, instead of just having an LED light for the selected route.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thank you also Freeway3
BigDaddy What is the learning curve on your CAD program and which one is it, Mel?
What is the learning curve on your CAD program and which one is it, Mel?
I used Anyrail - very easy but very basic.
peahrensmy crossovers are wired like that; i.e., 2 parallel Tortoises with one bi-color LED off the DPDT, in series with the Torti.
rrinkerThey won't be over current, the Tortoise draws a max of 15-18ma which is below the maximum 20-25ma of most any LED.
if each tortoise draws 15ma, two in parallel will draw 30 ma.
need to make sure your LED can handle that
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Mel on both tortoise 1 & 2 where you show (2) that's really terminal 8 on the tortoise, correct?
They won't be over current, the Tortoise draws a max of 15-18ma which is below the maximum 20-25ma of most any LED. That's why you can just wire the LEDs in series with the Tortoise, no resistors needed. The Tortoise is the resistor.
gregcas I said ealier, not sure if two motors wired in parallel will draw more than 20ma and damage LED in series with motors
Greg, my crossovers are wired like that; i.e., 2 parallel Tortoises with one bi-color LED off the DPDT, in series with the Torti. The LED is an All Electronics bi-color but I do not know it's specs. It has worked fine (8 yrs.) but I do not know if it is close to it's max current. Just for info.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Thanks Greg and Paul!
thanks Mel. That works!
Freeway 3's diagram hits the nail on the head. One bi-colored led, green for thru, red for divergent mounted next to one of the turnouts. If you did want another led next to the second turnout, wire it in line just like the first led.
I have no idea Henry.
I started out with Pro Design I back in 1984. Pro Design V (American Small Business) was bought by DesignCAD in the Early 90s. I took the upgrades as they were available. DesignCAD became IMSI Design in the early 2000s and it is now TurboCAD.The only learning curve I can remember was DesignCAD 6 going from DOS based to Windows 95, that was a biggie. By sticking with the upgrades as they became available there hasn’t been a huge learning curve after 95.DesignCAD 22 is much easier than AutoCAD and still very powerful. The price is right, $50. I think every CAD program has a stiff learning curve for a beginner.After the Windows 95 upgrade every upgrade has been simple. Having worked with my CAD for 36 years it’s pretty easy to do almost anything.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Thanks Randy
This is what my panel looked like:
The middle toggle controlled a crossover. One way, it went straight, the two LEDs on the straight tracks were lit. The other way, it crossed over, the center LED on the diagonal was lit.
Wiring was just what Mel posted. Or at least electrically equivalent - the wires went from the toggle to the LEDs and then out to the two Tortoises.
If the turnouts don;t go the right way, swap the wires on 1 and 8 of one of the Tortoises and they will be in proper sync, either both set straight or both set to cross.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
gdelmoro Back to my original plea for help, can anyone provide a wiring diagram? I know its is explained in the responses but a visual old really help. thanks
Back to my original plea for help, can anyone provide a wiring diagram?
I know its is explained in the responses but a visual old really help.
thanks
OK Gary, how about this.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
gdelmoroThe tortoises are powered from a 12v Power Supply, LED's are 12v Can anyone provide a wiring diagram?
Can anyone provide a wiring diagram?
assuming 12V LEDs means LEDs with resistors. if so, they can be wired across DPDT switch or motors whereever convenient.
LEDs can be wired in pairs, sharing a resistor (or not)
as I said ealier, not sure if two motors wired in parallel will draw more than 20ma and damage LED in series with motoes
Option 1: LEDs in series, without resistors, for about 8v at Tortoise:
Tortoise by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Option 2: LEDs in parallel (w/resistors), 12v at Tortoise
Tortoise2 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
SeeYou190 This will do two Tortoises from one DPDT toggle. Use pins 1 & 8 of each Tortoise. I do not undeerstand your description of the LEDs. -Kevin
This will do two Tortoises from one DPDT toggle. Use pins 1 & 8 of each Tortoise.
I do not undeerstand your description of the LEDs.
-Kevin
I have crossovers where I use a single bi-color LED at the DPDT that shows green when the turnouts are set for mainline and red for crossing over.
20200603_154226 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
But I take it you want to use 3 bi-color LEDs, as a choice. No issue. I see 2 ways you might do that:
1. You could use the LEDs in series in the wiring to the Torti, without resistors. Each LED will use about 2 of the 12 available volts. With my single LED, I just put it on one of the DPDT output terminals to the Tortoise(s). If the colors are backward, I either swapped the wires at the DPDT or at the Tortoise(s).
But with 3 LEDs it gets interesting. If you put one in the lead to each of the 2 Torti, then the LED would use 2 volts and leave 10 volts for the Tortoise. Each would move similarly. The issue would be the 3rd LED. If put in one of the DPDT output wires, then each Tortoise will see (because of 2 LEDs in series to it) about 8 volts, moving slower than your other Torti, but surely ok. You would have to get the polarities of each correct. This would be a variation of Freeway3's diagram, adding an additional LED to each Tortoise wire after the split to the Torti. The common LED would need to be the reverse direction of the other 2 LEDs.
Of course, you could put all 3 LEDs (one reversed from the other two) in series on a DPDT output, but that would mean the Torti would see only about 6 volts, moving slower still (if 6v is sufficient?). I would not suggest that.
2. If concerned about the voltage at the Tortoise and switching speed, you could just add the 3 LEDs (with 1K resistors), in parallel, across the DPDT output wires (before the split to the Torti). The Torti would see the full 12v, as would each of the 3 LED/resistor jumpers. Note that 2 LEDs would be in one direction and the 3rd in the opposite direction (polarity wise) so the mainline indicators and crossover indicator would be opposite.
I note that the Tortoise instructions suggest a 9-12v DC power supply, and indicate that less than 12v (at the Tortoise) simply slows the movement. I suspect that 8v will work just dandy, but uncertain (per the instructions) about 6v. Just a matter of interest as I would not suggest putting the 3 LEDs in series when you can have a 2-LED path to each Tortoise, with 8v Tortoise movement speed, if you want to go with option 1.
I think I have this right. I will stand corrected if I got myself mixed up. Sorry I don't know how to draw the above options.
Like so?
Ed
Here you go, I just edited Kevin's sketch.
I'm also a little confused on you wanting to use 3 LEDs. You just need 1 bi-color at the control panel, next to the toggle. Green for normal route, red for diverging. For a crossover, green for both tracks straight thru, red for cross. Or am I missing something?
floridaflyer Don't quite understand why the red light in the middle. I have two locations exactly like you are describing and green for thru, red for divergent. What does the middle light tell you that the other two do not?
Don't quite understand why the red light in the middle. I have two locations exactly like you are describing and green for thru, red for divergent. What does the middle light tell you that the other two do not?
On all my control panels I have turnouts depicted with LEDs indicating (green for the route direction and red for the other direction. Just tying to keep the indicators the same.
RR_Mel I made a double crossover using Atlas turnouts but linkage driven by a single Tortoise. https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2012/06/june-25-2012-my-double-crossover.htmlYou can use the Tortoise switch to operate the LEDs.You can also use two wire bi-color (Red Green) LEDs in series with the Tortoise motor. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I made a double crossover using Atlas turnouts but linkage driven by a single Tortoise. https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2012/06/june-25-2012-my-double-crossover.htmlYou can use the Tortoise switch to operate the LEDs.You can also use two wire bi-color (Red Green) LEDs in series with the Tortoise motor.
Thanks Mel
That lower wiring diagram is how i wired the hole layout.
When I wanted to use 1 DPDT to cotrol 2 Tortoise yet only use 3 (bi-color-2prong) LED's with the center one coming on when both turnouts are switched to the diverging route I was not sure how to wire it.
I have bi-color LED's I can use
Thanks Ed, I'll draw it out and see if i can post it