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LED leads length

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  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 158 posts
Posted by wolfman hal on Sunday, May 17, 2020 1:04 PM

Thanks guys.  All good ideas.  I am going with a 1/4" and my heat sink.

  • Member since
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  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
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Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, May 17, 2020 8:53 AM

If you have enough room and don’t want to solder to the LEDs you can use a socket.



The LED terminal spacing is standard .1”, the .1”/2.54mm Header Strip Connectors work great.


Mel



 
My Model Railroad  
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Sunday, May 17, 2020 8:37 AM

I cut my leads first, tin everything, put one LED in one side of a helping hand and the wire in another, parallel and in contact with the LED wire and solder.

I guess I'm a 1/4" guy

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: lavale, md
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Posted by gregc on Sunday, May 17, 2020 7:41 AM

why not solder a loop of wire as close to the plastic as possible and then cut the lead?

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, May 17, 2020 7:02 AM

wvg_ca

you can go down to a sixteenth of an inch, have to be fairly quick with the solder iron though ...

do you actually need it that close ??  much easier going a quarter inch or more ... 

I will second that thought.

Rich

Alton Junction

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  • From: Yorkton, Sk, Cnd
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Posted by wvg_ca on Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:01 AM

you can go down to a sixteenth of an inch, have to be fairly quick with the solder iron though ...

do you actually need it that close ??  much easier going a quarter inch or more ...

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Ontario Canada
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Posted by Mark R. on Saturday, May 16, 2020 9:59 PM

I've soldered wires right AT the epoxy housing leaving just a nub after trimming. Never damaged one yet. The trick is to be quick with your soldering - just a quick touch.

Mark.

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Saturday, May 16, 2020 9:24 PM

wolfman hal
And if so does it matter how short.

Use very fine 30 or 32 ga. wire. Tin the wire, solder to the LED first with just a touch of the tip of the iron. Then trim the leads with a very fine side-cutter or sprue cutter as close to your solder joint as possible.

I've done this often. 

 

If you're really tight for space use an SMD LED. You can get these with the leads already attached for a reasonable cost.

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, May 16, 2020 5:09 PM

I leave enough lead for my long nose pliers can be used for a heat sink.  I also use Hemostatic surgical clamp for heat sinks.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Hemostat+&_sacat=0


Mel



 
My Model Railroad  
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 158 posts
LED leads length
Posted by wolfman hal on Saturday, May 16, 2020 4:56 PM

Can you cut the leads from a LED?  And if so does it matter how short. I need to get into a small area. Of course I will still mark the Anode and cathode

Harold

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