rrinker No, that's correct, it still doesn't come with one. Only the new PB5, the SB5, and PowerCab come with power supplies. I thought someone said it did, which was news to me as well. --Randy
No, that's correct, it still doesn't come with one. Only the new PB5, the SB5, and PowerCab come with power supplies.
I thought someone said it did, which was news to me as well.
--Randy
Rich
Alton Junction
One suggestion I have is to plug the power supply into a surge protector with a switch since the powercab has no off on button. In my case I also put an on-off extension (meant for Xmas trees) so the powercab has it's own on-off switch.
Joe Staten Island West
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker PH Pro 5 amp system NOW comes with a power supply. It didn't always. When it was the older command station/booster (PB Box), you had to buy the power supply seperately.
PH Pro 5 amp system NOW comes with a power supply. It didn't always. When it was the older command station/booster (PB Box), you had to buy the power supply seperately.
If that is the case, NCE better update its website. It still indicates that a power supply is not included.
Pretty much EVERY DCC system was sold this way - power supplies were always transformers, not switching power supplies, so you needed a different one if you were in a 240V country as oppoist to a 120V country. Now that everyone is using switching power supplies (basically laptop power supplies is what they are) that are universal input (most can take 100-250V), and they have standard power cord connections, so all you need is the right power cord for your country, the same supply will work for all.
Indeed. I bought the NCE 5A Powerhouse Pro starter system in 2012 but do not recall the details. I suppose I noticed that info on their site. It suggests the P515 power supply, which notes it is for U.S. use. Perhaps they want the base set to be usable worldwide, and let folks add the supply they need.
https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200906155-PH-Pro-5-amp-Starter-System
https://www.ncedcc.com/online-store/P515-Power-supply-for-PH-Pro-15v-AC-5-Amp-p38322154
Of course, the basic Powercab 3A system does not require anything additional to get started. But do use a good surge protector power strip for your electronics.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
wjstix Ya it would be very odd for a DCC system not to come with a power supply.
Ya it would be very odd for a DCC system not to come with a power supply.
riogrande5761BTW, there was a guy on that forum which shall not be mentioned who was labeling Digitrax and NCE as archaic DCC systems and Wi-Fi based systems are far superior more flexible, better performing - the future of DCC control.
Hi riogrande5761,
If I can add a couple of details to that comment, Digitrax has a Wi-fi interface component available:
https://www.digitrax.com/products/wireless/lnwi/
My old club installed one and it took all of five minutes for the guys to have it up and running. I believe there are a couple of different throttle apps available.
Ringo58,
I think that buying the PowerCab was a wise choice. I absolutely love my PowerCab! Compared to a typical Digitrax throttle it is far easier to use and the display is much clearer. After watching the guys at the club use their Wi-fi throttles I don't see there being much of an advantage over the PowerCab system, other than the Wi-fi being an easy way to convert to wireless operation. In your case, there would be very little benefit from going wireless given the size of your layout.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
The NCE Power Cab has always come with a power supply and I believe the same is true for the PH Pro. The Smart Booster (SB3/SB5), OTOH, does require the purchase of a separate power supply.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
wjstixYa it would be very odd for a DCC system not to come with a power supply.
Odd maybe, but that is exactly the way Digitrax packaged their Chief and Empire Builder for years. Might be NCE did the same. I built a power supply from a kit sold by Spring Mill Hobbies back in the day because my Chief system, which I bought from Tony's Train Exchange over 20 years ago.
BTW, there was a guy on that forum which shall not be mentioned who was labeling Digitrax and NCE as archaic DCC systems and Wi-Fi based systems are far superior more flexible, better performing - the future of DCC control.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Sounds like it needs a good cleaning/re-lubing.
No tick but the gp38 is super loud running. Like a squeal mixed with a whine.
Ringo58 tstage First, "DCC-ready" can mean different things to different manufacturers. Example: I had a Proto 2000 S1 (late 90s?) that was touted as "DCC-ready". In reality, the motor brushes were not electrically isolated from the chassis. I had to make some minor modifications to the S1 before installing a Z-scale decoder in it. Ill more than likely need to do that with my P2K sd9, my p2k gp38-2 is a little newer, the ones that come shell on body
tstage First, "DCC-ready" can mean different things to different manufacturers. Example: I had a Proto 2000 S1 (late 90s?) that was touted as "DCC-ready". In reality, the motor brushes were not electrically isolated from the chassis. I had to make some minor modifications to the S1 before installing a Z-scale decoder in it.
First, "DCC-ready" can mean different things to different manufacturers. Example: I had a Proto 2000 S1 (late 90s?) that was touted as "DCC-ready". In reality, the motor brushes were not electrically isolated from the chassis. I had to make some minor modifications to the S1 before installing a Z-scale decoder in it.
Ill more than likely need to do that with my P2K sd9, my p2k gp38-2 is a little newer, the ones that come shell on body
I'm not sure about the Proto 2000 SD9 but the GP38-2 you should be okay on. I installed a decoder in one and it didn't go *poof*. If you ever hear a tick, tick, tick coming from either one while it moving...it's cracked gears. Thankfully that's an easy fix.
Those two are on the larger size so you shouldn't have any issues with decoders. If I read the correct info for your specific locomotive's manufacturer, they both come with 21-pin NEM DCC plugs. That could require a harness as a go-between - i.e. between the plug and the decoder you choose.
Again, I would remove the shell from those two locomotives and see what you have under the hood. Then you can make an informed choice in regards to your decoder.
tstage Slow down before you order any decoders, Ringo. First, "DCC-ready" can mean different things to different manufacturers. Example: I had a Proto 2000 S1 (late 90s?) that was touted as "DCC-ready". In reality, the motor brushes were not electrically isolated from the chassis. I had to make some minor modifications to the S1 before installing a Z-scale decoder in it. Secondly, decoders come in different sizes and shapes to accommodate the variety of space underneath a locomotive's shell. Some locomotives have a lot of room under the shell; some - like switchers - don't have a much room at all. It depends on the locomotive. Do you have a particular locomotive that you'd like to install your first decoder in? I would check that one first for the 8-pin socket then search for a recommended decoder for that specific manfacturer's locomotive. Even the chassis for like locomotives can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer that might work with one decoder but not with another. Tom
Slow down before you order any decoders, Ringo.
Secondly, decoders come in different sizes and shapes to accommodate the variety of space underneath a locomotive's shell. Some locomotives have a lot of room under the shell; some - like switchers - don't have a much room at all. It depends on the locomotive.
Do you have a particular locomotive that you'd like to install your first decoder in? I would check that one first for the 8-pin socket then search for a recommended decoder for that specific manfacturer's locomotive. Even the chassis for like locomotives can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer that might work with one decoder but not with another.
BigDaddyIf you are going to do soldering, the Xylotronic soldering station is happily owned my many forum members.
Henry,
I think the word "several" or "a number of" would be more accurate. And it's Xytronic. Xylotronic is electronics made from wood; not a very successful business model.
Just giving you a playful hard time, Henry.
BigDaddy We don't know what you don't know. The Powercab will not run DCC ready locos so you do need a transformer for those. Never ever ever have the Powercab hooked up at the same time the DC transformer is hooked up. There are several threads about how to run one or the other, but keep in mind Murphy's law, an absent minded mistake will smoke the Powercab. If you are going to do soldering, the Xylotronic soldering station is happily owned my many forum members.
We don't know what you don't know. The Powercab will not run DCC ready locos so you do need a transformer for those.
Never ever ever have the Powercab hooked up at the same time the DC transformer is hooked up. There are several threads about how to run one or the other, but keep in mind Murphy's law, an absent minded mistake will smoke the Powercab.
If you are going to do soldering, the Xylotronic soldering station is happily owned my many forum members.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
tstage Ringo, Everything you need to operate your layout comes with the Power Cab: Power Cab throttle Power supply (13.8V) PCP panel (what you plug your Power Cab into) 7' 6-contact RJ12 cable (used to plug your Power Cab into your PCP panel 4-contact coily cord (for extra throttles) Power Cab manual All you need is wire (e.g. 20-22 AWG) to hook the Power Cab to your layout track. As far as locomotives: What era and/or railroad do you model, if any? Or, does it matter what the locomotive you purchase? If you already have some newer locomotives (i.e. manufactured in the past 20 years) that came with 8-pin NMRA sockets, you could save money by purchasing just the [non-sound] decoder and installing it yourself. Literally, plug 'n plug: Remove the shell, plug in the decoder, reattach the shell to the chassis, operate your locomotive on address "3" [default]. It's that simple. You can program the decoder to a different address anytime. A sound decoder can be more complex to install. If you are interested in sound then purchasing a locomotive w/sound would probably be the best avenue to take for your first purchase. Non-sound decoders are generally less complicated than sound installs. Tom
Ringo,
Everything you need to operate your layout comes with the Power Cab:
All you need is wire (e.g. 20-22 AWG) to hook the Power Cab to your layout track.
As far as locomotives: What era and/or railroad do you model, if any? Or, does it matter what the locomotive you purchase?
If you already have some newer locomotives (i.e. manufactured in the past 20 years) that came with 8-pin NMRA sockets, you could save money by purchasing just the [non-sound] decoder and installing it yourself. Literally, plug 'n plug: Remove the shell, plug in the decoder, reattach the shell to the chassis, operate your locomotive on address "3" [default]. It's that simple. You can program the decoder to a different address anytime.
A sound decoder can be more complex to install. If you are interested in sound then purchasing a locomotive w/sound would probably be the best avenue to take for your first purchase. Non-sound decoders are generally less complicated than sound installs.
Awesome! going to order it today along with a decoder. All my Locos are DCC ready. I have 2 walthers mainlines, 2 athearn RTRs, an athearn genesis and 2 P2Ks. And I like the late 80s as I can have SOO with exMILW units along with CNW
Ya it would be very odd for a DCC system not to come with a power supply. It should come with some type of "wall wart" that plugs into the house power. Then you connect the wires from the layout to the DCC system, that's how the track gets it's power.
I'd suggest deciding up front if you want sound or not. Non-sound decoders are quite a bit cheaper, but in the long run it's often better to install sound decoders from the start as opposed to installing non-sound decoders that you later end up replacing with sound decoders.
Might be time to get a Kalmbach book on the basics of DCC because the Powercab is both the command station and power supply.
I don't use NCE, but I would think you should get the power supple from NCE, so everything is what it's supposed to be. I use Digitrax, and the power supply came with the set up.
That's just my worth.
Mike.
My You Tube
After research and consideration Ive decided to run my new layout DCC. I'm going to get the NCE Powercab 5240025. What else is needed on top of that and a DCC loco to get started? Would an old model power transformer be a good power supply?