Some may be regulated output Most not regulated. Voltage with a meter will be usually higher until operated at rated current.
Some will say universal, 100- to 220 AC input what is called a switcher. Output many times is DC. Just read the label.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
If you're one of us who has an old computer lying around, yank the power supply out of that. They're actually halfway decent supplies.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
When what ever the gadget was that the walwart came with, dies, I through out the walwart, along with the gadget.
Mike.
My You Tube
I used to keep a box of old wall-warts for DC applications. They had all sorts of odd voltages, and most could not provide much current. They had no circuit breakers, so one good overload and it was toast.
I now get larger 12 volt, 4 or 5 amp supplies from China for a few dollars. Yes, these also need a fuse, but they can power a lot of lights, and also my crossing signal circuits and with an extra dropping resistor, Miller Engineering signs, too.
Throw out the wall warts and standardize your electronics. Fewer outlets for plugging in supplies will be needed. As your layout grows, you'll be happier with this approach.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
ndbprrAre they all the same output?
Not only are they not all the same output, some output AC and not DC.
As Mel and John indicated, you have to start by looking at any ratings printed on the case -- and there are two, not one, that are important to watch, once you've determined the output is DC and not AC.
One is the voltage -- this had better match what is on the DCC equipment you plan to connect, net of any voltage drop between the 'wart' and the device(s) it's intended to drive. The second is the permissible amperage the device can source, presumably continuously (although it may involve no more than a particular allowable temperature rise in a certain time period, although this is seldom explicitly stated). You should not even consider using a wart of less than the expected amp draw as given in the specs for the equipment you're driving. (If necessary, you can get watts as the product of indicated amperage and volts, or derive permissible current from nominal 'watts' divided by voltage if that's what you're given.
The plug on the wart almost certainly won't fit the DCC equipment you want to power. Getting the DC polarity exact is a CRITICAL thing. Use a meter; don't trust that the wiring 'looks' like it should be arranged with positive and negative conductors, or has stripes or colors on one side and not the other.
One potential caveat: DO NOT attempt to power devices with an 'only slightly higher' nominal voltage wart, unless you've measured the voltage at the device connection point and found it comparable to what's expected. Please do not ask me how I know that.
(Incidentally, many, many warts adhere to the USB power standard, which started out 5V at 1A and was then 'improved' to 5V at 2.1A (and then upward, to the 5.8A in some 'combination' chargers and then to the complicated logic-driven arrangements associated with type C connections). You can use any such USB charger as a 5VDC supply at its stated power using little more than a compatible plug. But test it first, as some of the cheap "Chinese" supplies have been known to short to live 120VAC without warning or even due to inadequate quality control when brand new...)
Oh, yes, and ALWAYS put a fuseholder and fuse in the positive line to the device. And be sure that fuse is a correct type and rating for the wattage of the 'connected equipment' ...
As Mel says, the output in both volts and milliamps will be labeled or cast on the body of the unit. They vary widely. Our clubs collects all sorts of them from members and other sources for DC applications (power to switch machines, signaling, building lighting, etc.) that are normally isolated from (DCC) track power. Just make sure your single or ganged load matches the output of the unit you're going to employ. Voltage step-downs to these DC circuits may be appropriate or necessary. Please consult with Mel or others on the forum that are true electrical gurus.
John
Are they all the same output? I have as many as 12 from phones even some from Palms. Can they be used to power dcc electronics?