BigDaddy I'm going to assume your 12 gauge feeder was a typo. I solder 22 ga feeder to bottom of the rail joiners for my turnouts. With all the bad things written about conductivity at the joiner, you would think that wouldn't work. Randy sez it does, and so far he is correct.
I'm going to assume your 12 gauge feeder was a typo. I solder 22 ga feeder to bottom of the rail joiners for my turnouts.
With all the bad things written about conductivity at the joiner, you would think that wouldn't work. Randy sez it does, and so far he is correct.
Henry, yes sir....i must have fat fingered that one lol....Thanks for pointing that out.
rrinker A few caveats. The Atlas joiners for Atlas Coe 83 track in HO fit VERY tightly(when first used). If the N scale ones behave the same way, continue on. At the workbench, where it's easy to solder, and since I'm only soldering joiners, there's nothing to melt anyway, I soldered feeder wires to fresh out of the pack rail joiners. EVERY rail joiner on my last layout had feeders, except where I needed a gap for power districts. I also soldered pairs of flex track togethe bfroe laying track in curves, so there would be no kinking at the joiners. Those joiners also got feeders attached. Since you have to cut away a few ties on the end to allow for the rail to slide, it's not too difficult to solder this and not melt any ties. My trick was a little paste flux in the joiner before slipping it on, then the iron is applied to the outside and solder to the inside where it wicks under and around the joiner. Once the joints cool, flip it over and solder the feeders on. When test fitting to cut track to length, keep a few pair of used joiners so the slip on and off easily. Do not use those fresh new ones you soldered feeders to until the final placement of the track. --Randy
A few caveats. The Atlas joiners for Atlas Coe 83 track in HO fit VERY tightly(when first used). If the N scale ones behave the same way, continue on.
At the workbench, where it's easy to solder, and since I'm only soldering joiners, there's nothing to melt anyway, I soldered feeder wires to fresh out of the pack rail joiners. EVERY rail joiner on my last layout had feeders, except where I needed a gap for power districts.
I also soldered pairs of flex track togethe bfroe laying track in curves, so there would be no kinking at the joiners. Those joiners also got feeders attached. Since you have to cut away a few ties on the end to allow for the rail to slide, it's not too difficult to solder this and not melt any ties. My trick was a little paste flux in the joiner before slipping it on, then the iron is applied to the outside and solder to the inside where it wicks under and around the joiner. Once the joints cool, flip it over and solder the feeders on.
When test fitting to cut track to length, keep a few pair of used joiners so the slip on and off easily. Do not use those fresh new ones you soldered feeders to until the final placement of the track.
--Randy
Randy, thats good information there buddy, i wish i had asked this question before i laid the majority of my track lol. I was experienced in soldering feeders on HO scale track and did a pretty decent job both reliableity and looks wise but this N scale track is a different beast all together lol.....From now on though i will be taking your advice. I am also going to go ahead and add the NCE SB5 booster to my layout as soon as i get the funds. Thanks again!
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
richhotrain Trainzman2435 I am sure there is a standard but what is a good rule of thumb regarding feeder wires and how often one should add them? At a maximum, add one pair of feeders to each and every piece of track and one pair of feeders to every end of each turnout. That is what I finally did on my current layout after experiencing power losses and voltage drops on my previous layouts. I suppose that you could get away with less if you solder rail joints together. Rich
Trainzman2435 I am sure there is a standard but what is a good rule of thumb regarding feeder wires and how often one should add them?
At a maximum, add one pair of feeders to each and every piece of track and one pair of feeders to every end of each turnout. That is what I finally did on my current layout after experiencing power losses and voltage drops on my previous layouts. I suppose that you could get away with less if you solder rail joints together.
Rich
Rich, so basically every 30" section of flex should have a feeder as well as each end of my turnouts? On most of my flex track i have soldered the rail joiners...On the outer loops of my track plan it took me soldering 4 sections of flex together to get a nice smooth curve but it turned out good. I have always been leary of soldering to my turnouts due to possibley melting ties especially on N scale rail lol....Any secrets or tips on soldering to N scale turnouts? Thanks again buddy!
Trainzman2435I am sure there is a standard but what is a good rule of thumb regarding feeder wires and how often one should add them?
Alton Junction
When I was running HO I could do a couple more as I ran 3/4 amp Micros. The power cab shows current as does my home made DCC amp meter.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
cowman If you are planning on running more than three sound locos at one time, you definitely need the booster. You don't say if you are going to use other things with DCC or what their draw would be. It isn't the length of track you have (as long as you have sufficient feeders) but the number of locos and their draw (ask how I know). Good luck, Richard
If you are planning on running more than three sound locos at one time, you definitely need the booster. You don't say if you are going to use other things with DCC or what their draw would be. It isn't the length of track you have (as long as you have sufficient feeders) but the number of locos and their draw (ask how I know).
Good luck,
Richard
Richard, thanks for pointing that out which brings me to another question....I am sure there is a standard but what is a good rule of thumb regarding feeder wires and how often one should add them? Thanks again!
Trainzman2435 i am using 14 AWG stranded wire for my bus lines along with 12 AWG solid wire for feeders.
If anyone remembers D.C. shock jock "The Greaseman" he would call those manly feeders
(duplicate post)
You could also go wireless. You'd need the SB5, an RB02, and you'd have to send your PowerCab in to have radio added. You wouldn't need to buy any panels then.
rrinker You can't move the PowerCab around by utself, it must remain plugged in to the proper jack on the main panel. If you get the SB5, then you can use the PowerCab as a ProCab and walk around and plug it in to any panel you wire around the layout. The original PowerCab panel and the wall wart go on your workbench to make a program track, since the SB5 has no program track connection. --Randy
You can't move the PowerCab around by utself, it must remain plugged in to the proper jack on the main panel.
If you get the SB5, then you can use the PowerCab as a ProCab and walk around and plug it in to any panel you wire around the layout. The original PowerCab panel and the wall wart go on your workbench to make a program track, since the SB5 has no program track connection.
Randy, yes sir, i forgot to mention that lol.....Being able to move from one panel to another is a priority for me.....Thank you sir!
Hello everyone, its been a little bit since i last was on here due to work but i am back and have a question. I am currently using what some of you are which is thwe NCE Powercab 2 amp starter system. One complete lap around my layout is roughly 140' from start to finish. As my plan shows i have 2 yards as well as some double main line runs and a fairly large engine facility with turntable. My layout is DCC of course and i am using 14 AWG stranded wire for my bus lines along with 22 AWG solid wire for feeders. My feeder wires are planned for roughly every 4' or so. I plan on having multiple power panel plugs around the layout due to the size of it. I also plan on having the capability of running lighting in structures, sound equipped locos and possibly a signaling system eventually. My question is should i or would i benefit from upgrading my 2 amp system to the NCE SB5 smart booster? Thanks for the input everyone and Happy Modelling!