I'm using the term speaker baffle in respect to a plane which will stop the sound waves from the front of the diaphragm canceling out those from the rear.
In most cases the speaker baffle is the front face of a traditional speaker enclosure. Ideally it would be on the same plane as the diaphragm.
Unfortunately we don't have a lot of room to play around with in a locomotive shell that shares a decoder, drive hardware and electronics. In the example of the SD7, above, I certainly couldn't use any type of total enclosure. The drive shaft runs right along the bottom edge of the speaker. However, by placing that ring of styrene around the outer edge enough of the forward and rearward driven sound waves get separated so that the sound produced is noticeably louder and has more presence.
Being able to experiment with various designs of "baffles" or enclosures helps to get the best sound out of the smallest spaces. The smaller "sugar cube" speakers work best with air-tight enclosures.
Good Luck, Ed
Should the baffle be on the front side or the back side. I watched a Bruce Petrarca video, and he only confused me.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddyDoes it need more of an enclosure?
An enclosure would be helpful, however I have found that sometimes a simple "baffle" will work wonders. I've made styrene enclosures that work fine. You should seal the four mounting holes if you are not using them.
This one was made to nest into the coal bunker of a brass tender:
Q3_decoder0 by Edmund, on Flickr
This SD-7 has two speakers. Note the baffle on the 28mm round speaker. It is amazing what a difference that small arc of white plastic makes. There is an ESU cube speaker toward the short hood.
BLI_BLE_RS15dcc by Edmund, on Flickr
BigDaddyThe front has a plastic gasket, is that meant to seal the speaker or seal the speaker assembly to a flat piece of styrene?
IF you were using the four mounting holes the gasket would work. I generally "seal" the speaker using a tacky cement along the lines of Aileen's. Something air-tight but not as permanent as, say Goo.
I like to test speakers before finally assembling them into the loco. I use an MP3 player and play some "full dynamic range" music through the speakers to see what kind of performance I can expect. Sometimes a speaker is a complete dud — so testing before assembly is a good idea.
SPKR_test by Edmund, on Flickr
This also allows me to check the wiring. Sometimes series is best, other times parallel. Yes, the resistance of the speaker matters but I have found that experimenting with series/parallel arrangements matters when the speakers aren't "matched". As long as the decoder can handle the load.
I've become convinced of the excellent sound output of the "cube" speakers. No two are the same, though. Again, auditioning several enclosures and speaker sizes will help you determine what sounds best to your ear.
BigDaddyMounting it upwards or downwards should not matter?
Nope, the sound seems to get out either way. It's all about moving the air.
Now that sounds intetesting, or at least, I bet it will. I want to try something of the same, but maybe a wood enclosure.
I see they sell a seperate enclosure.
I'm going to have etched metal intake grills, and fans on mine, so my thought was to mount them facing up. But it probably wouldn't make any difference.
Mike.
My You Tube
I want to put this Soundtrax speaker, in a Stewart B unit.