You shouldn't have to do that if you dispatch each loco when you are done. Stop the loco - include moving the direction handle to brake, because witht he potentiometer control you might not actually be at zero. Make sure all functions are off. Press Loco, then Exit.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hi, and Welcome—
http://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB833/zephyr-dispatching-locomotive-addresses-or-mus/
Digitrax addresses are stored in slots. If you forget to "dispatch" an address you get a "Slot Max" or Full message:
http://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB832/zephyr-full-message/
Hope that helps,
Ed
Thank you each and all for your replies. It seems that my Digitrax Zephyr is in some way holding on to a second, sort of phantom, cab command, as suggested by rrinker. The locomotive was apparently responding to two different sets of commands. I found I could work around the problem by addressing the locomotive by the standard 03, so ultimately I assigned the locomotive a new four digit address. Problem solved.
rrinker What DCC system do you have? This sounds like having the same loco selected on two throttles with Digitrax, where at least one of the throttles is either a Zephyr or UT4. --Randy
What DCC system do you have? This sounds like having the same loco selected on two throttles with Digitrax, where at least one of the throttles is either a Zephyr or UT4.
Similar problem, I've seen something like that when I was trying to operate an engine by itself, forgetting it had been added to a consist the last time I used it. Once I broke up the consist, the engine ran fine by itself.
The only Tsunami that had an over heating issue was the Micro, the 750 Ma one. Happened to me and some others on different forums. I pulled one apart and the chips were all pressed into the heat sink materiel adequately. It would start up after cooling down.
It is still near me on my computer table.
The 1000 ma one, I never heard of any over heating. I ran some of those also.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Tsunami's from years ago had a reputation for getting hot. What decoder do you have? (Hint always gives us much more info than you think we need)
Old as it 30 year old Life Like Proto engines can get gummed up grease in the gear which might increase current draw. Aside from replacing the motor or a tiny drop of conductive lubricant, there is not much us meer mortals can do to a motor.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
to the forums. I don't know anything about DCC, so I can't help you there, but I may be able to help with the motor. Does the motor get hot after each run? Have you noticed any squeaking or squealing sounds? If either of these happens, it probably needs lubrication with a light, plastic safe oil. (I use Labelle 108, just for the record) Sometimes that's all it takes. If that doesn't help, then you may need a new motor.
I have a GP 30 from Walthers with a date of 2013 on the DCC card in the locomotive. Unlike other locomotives on my layout, it will run for a short period then slow to a stop. Usually it will then return to operating and then exhibit the same behavior, slowing to a stop after a while. It will certainly start running again if I crank up the speed. Sound and light work fine. I consulted Walthers and they suggested it sounded like a motor problom more than anything else.
I would welcome advice. I think I could replace the DCC card but I am leary of getting into the motor. Thanks in advance.