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Matt'sdadI am planning to use SPDT slide switches for my N Scale turnouts. I am using Walthers system for the the mainline but will control the yards manually.
rrinker In this case the OP isn;t using the slide switches to control something else, the slide switch IS the point motor.
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OK, I completely misunderstood.
I took the statement above to mean that the slide switches were being used for the new Walthers switch machines.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 rrinker Same reason I use 2 LEDs per turnout. On my panel there is an LED in each of the diverging routes in the schematic. The selected track is green, the other route is red. If there is only one LED, and it's either red or green, how do I know which way the switch is actually lined? The 'normal' or green one isn't always the straight leg of the turnout! . That makes sense. I have only seen a few layouts with indicators in the panels, and green was always "main" and red was "diverging" whether or not main was the straight route or not. . I have used DPDT toggles to control switch machines ever since the Tortoise came out. The position of the toggle handle has been the only indicator I have needed. . If turnouts can be controlled for a CTC board or other remote location, I can certainly see where panel indicators would be nice. . If I need a visual indicator for a turnout I install a signal on the layout to show the turnout position. This bothers some purists, because my signals have nothing to do with train control. . -Kevin .
rrinker Same reason I use 2 LEDs per turnout. On my panel there is an LED in each of the diverging routes in the schematic. The selected track is green, the other route is red. If there is only one LED, and it's either red or green, how do I know which way the switch is actually lined? The 'normal' or green one isn't always the straight leg of the turnout!
That makes sense. I have only seen a few layouts with indicators in the panels, and green was always "main" and red was "diverging" whether or not main was the straight route or not.
I have used DPDT toggles to control switch machines ever since the Tortoise came out. The position of the toggle handle has been the only indicator I have needed.
If turnouts can be controlled for a CTC board or other remote location, I can certainly see where panel indicators would be nice.
If I need a visual indicator for a turnout I install a signal on the layout to show the turnout position. This bothers some purists, because my signals have nothing to do with train control.
In this case the OP isn;t using the slide switches to control something else, the slide switch IS the point motor. Usually the contacts are used for frog polarity, but with some LEDs attached they cna make signals the same way you do, not prototypically correct but it would shoow a red signal along the track that a train would derail if it ran the open points, and a green along the way it can go safely. Or panel lights, or whatever.
DIY version of a Bluepoint or Bullfrog type of thing. Can be controlled from the fascia by rigging a rod and a knob on the end to push/pull to move the slide switch, with another hole drilled in the handle at right angles using a piece of music wire stuck up through the throwbar.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Matt'sdad Thanks Randy, I’ve read many of your posts and always enjoy them. You described what I was thinking and what I was hoping to do. Pretty sure I understand wiring two single color LEDs to one SPDT. But back to original question: how to wire two bi-color LEDs? - is the SPDT the right switch for two bi-color? Reminder, the SPDT will be controlling the turnouts via stiff wire (which I did on my previous layout, just no LEDs) - do I need the 3-lead LED or will the 2-lead work? - Any advice on wiring is appreciated. Thanks for chiming in and helping!!
Thanks Randy,
I’ve read many of your posts and always enjoy them. You described what I was thinking and what I was hoping to do. Pretty sure I understand wiring two single color LEDs to one SPDT. But back to original question: how to wire two bi-color LEDs?
- is the SPDT the right switch for two bi-color? Reminder, the SPDT will be controlling the turnouts via stiff wire (which I did on my previous layout, just no LEDs)
- do I need the 3-lead LED or will the 2-lead work?
- Any advice on wiring is appreciated. Thanks for chiming in and helping!!
3 lead ones will work with a SPDT switch. The center is the common, both of those tie together and go to one side of the power supply (depends on if they are common anoode or common cathode). You can also put the resistor in this lead (one per LED) but if there is a difference in the brightness of the green vs red, you can use two resistors per LED, each a different value, one in the red leg and one in the green leg. The other side of the power supply goes to the center terminal of the SPDT. The red lead of one LED and green lead of the other LED goes to one outer terminal oof the SPDT, and the remaining two leads go to the other terminal of the SPDT. Thrown one way, one LED will be green and the other red. Flip the slide switch the other way, and the green LED will now be red, and the red LED will now be green.
To make it work with 2 wire bicolor LEDs, you need an AC power supply and a couple of extra regular diodes, or a DPDT slide switch.
Same reason I use 2 LEDs per turnout. On my panel there is an LED in each of the diverging routes in the schematic. The selected track is green, the other route is red.
If there is only one LED, and it's either red or green, how do I know which way the switch is actually lined? The 'normal' or green one isn't always the straight leg of the turnout!
The other alternative would be two single color LEDs, where the selected route is lit up and the other route remains dark. Still 2 LEDs.
The common anode or cathode LEDs that Mel described can be wired with SPDT contacts. If the Walthers switch motor only needs SPDT contacts, then you can do both with a common DPDT slide switch.
I also do not understand why you need two LEDs per turnout.
Matt'sdad Thanks Mel, makes sense. I’ll check out the site you posted and get a few to try. Appreciate the info!!
Thanks Mel, makes sense. I’ll check out the site you posted and get a few to try. Appreciate the info!!
Thanks Mel, that’s making some sense. Two questions:
1. I was hoping to use two bi-color LEDs per turnout, one for the main, one for the diverging. Does that mean I need a DPDT?
or
2. I thought I remembered a diagram using two 2-lead bi-color with one lead from each soldered together. Is that possible?
Thanks again, the electrical aspect of the hobby is interesting but all new to me. I’m more from the artistic/scenery side.
That’s what I find. Mel might have me on the right path, thanks.
Mark R.You can search the community yourself using the search box on the right instead of asking others to do it for you. ;-)
The problem may be that the forum's search is not easy to use.
York1 John
To control a bi-color LED you need a DPDT set of contacts set up as a reversing switch.
If the Walthers machine can operate with SPDT contacts (I have never used one, so I do not know for certain), the easiest way would be to use a 3PDT slide switch, and use the additional contacts as a DPDT reversing switch.
The Circuitron Tortoise has two sets of SPDT contacts that can be used as a DPDT switch for this purpose, but again, I am not sure what auxiliary contacts are available on the Walthers switch motor.
I am using a slide switch to manually control the turnouts. No switch machines.
You can search the community yourself using the search box on the right instead of asking others to do it for you. ;-)
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I am planning to use SPDT slide switches for my N Scale turnouts. I am using Walthers system for the the mainline but will control the yards manually. My plan is to use two bi-color LEDs per turnout to indicate turnout position. Any advice on LED-resistor combination, wiring diagram and where to purchase would be helpful. Links to previous threads work as well. Thanks in advance for the help.