I just converted a early 1980's RS3 (can't remember for sure but I think it was an Atlas product made by KATO) to DCC w/sound using a Tsunami2 decoder.
I opted for 12v lamps vs. 1.5v lamps wired to the Tsunmai2 12v terminals with the thought I'd get better light transfer using the existing light channels with formed headlights on one end that fit into the body housing. They tested ok when I powered up to test everything before placing the body housing on to the drive base.
Problem is the heat generated with the 12v lamps when taped flush in place on the body housing at the end of the light guides started to deform the body housing at the point of contact.
Installing LED's with voltage dropping resistors isn't possible because of the severely restricted space with this first issued RS3 design. I could install 1.5v lamps but have no way of knowing if they'll run just as hot without buying a package of them to test.
So....... I'm looking for suggestions to address the lamp heat issue.
(I'm old school pushing 80 and don't have need for a smartphone so can't upload photos to help illustrate).
There's always SMD LEDs. And they come in a variety of sizes and packages.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstage There's always SMD LEDs. And they come in a variety of sizes and packages. Tom
Rich
Alton Junction
Hello All,
Over50Installing LED's with voltage dropping resistors isn't possible because of the severely restricted space with this first issued RS3 design. I could install 1.5v lamps...
If you can install a incandescent lamp in the give space you can install LEDs.
The resistor can be soldered directly to the longer, anode, side of the LED. The legs of the LED can be trimmed to size as long as you remember to trim the shorter, cathode side, well...shorter.
Then just solder the wires from the decoder to the legs of the resistor.
By using 1/16-inch shrink wrap tubing; which just fits over the resistors, you can isolate each leg of the LED.
I used 3mm LEDs and they fit into the headlight sockets of some pretty tight installations.
Check out More LEDs for options and wiring diagrams.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I don't know if my Kato RS2s are similar? On those I used 5mm LEDs, CA glued to much shortened light pipes. I used LokSound Select decoders 6AUX, which is a capsule with wires, not the Direct shape which is a circuit board replacement form factor.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Thanks to all for the replies. LED's are the way to go apparently. This said, is "cool" the operative word when selecting the LED's? Reason for the question is I have a steam loco that was configured via my LHS with LED's for the rear and forward lights. Had to return it for LED swaps because of heat generated deformation of the light housings. And if this works, this link shows the Atlas engine I have ... enlarge the 3/4 view and you'll see the dual simulated head lights that are raised bumps at the end of the light bar positioned in the nose of the body.
https://www.ebay.com/i/392335311304?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Ddd6004cd6beb49a09941427fc98cf502%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D392308265357%26itm%3D392335311304%26pg%3D2385738
Cool LEDs usually refers to the colour. Cool being the very white or bluish white colour. Warm white LEDs refers to the orange tinge to the colour. the temperature of both types is the same. I have mounted 2 SMD Leds in the headlight of a RDC and with 2.2K resistors they don't get warm enough to feel with my finger. The CRE LEDs are way too bright for our application and they get very warm and need heat sinks but most other LEDs are cool to touch.
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
Here's a video, as you will see I used cool white LEDs to imitate bright Quartz Halogen headlights. For the RS3 which I think used tungsten bulbs I'd use warm white LEDS.
https://youtu.be/IWGDc0YOx6s
Let's make that link clickable:
Atlas RS3
I have used both SMD and regular LEDs for headlights. If the lightpipes for the headlights are open at one end, you can use heatshrink to connect the LED to the lightpipe. And, if the LED ever goes bad, it can easily be pulled and replaced. That is my preferred method rather than gluing it in place.
And, even though LEDs do run cool, they can still run warm if not enough resistance is added. And - like incandescents - they will burn brighter and burn out faster. Generally, a 1K resistor is adequate for an LED. And you can go higher if it's still too bright.
The other thing to note is that there are different types (hues) of LEDs. For an early diesel or steam locomotive, a "warm-white" or "yeloglo" (Miniatronics) will look much more realistic than a bright or "sunny-white" LED. These can also be found in the SMD LEDs, as well.
Lastly, here's a method I used to add a rear headlight inside the cab of a Walthers SW1 switcher. The LED is press-fit into the styrene tubing. Should I need to replace the LED, a little tugging will dislodge it from the tube.
Are you sure it's the lights? Have you checked the temperature with the lights off for a while?
I've installed a couple of Tsunami decoders, and those things get really hot by themselves.
I always use LEDs in locomotives, by the way.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have the same Atlas RS3. I cut the light pipes short. Polished the cut end with 600 grit wet dry sandpaper. Glued the light pipes to the shell with a bit of caulk that I use to lay track. Glued the warm white LED to the light pipe and shell with the same caulk. 1K resistor and it does not get hot.
I like Tom's idea of heat shrink to hold the pipe and the LED. However the caulk can be pulled off if you need to replace the LED.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The other plus to the heatshrink is that it cuts down on extraneous light from the LED - especially the LED nearest the cab.
bigdaddy ... You having the same Atlas RS3 conversion experience is what I was hoping for.
Do you by chance have the specific warm white LED specs you used and where you got them (and the 1K resistors)?
EDIT: Never mind ... I found the Miniatronics 3mm yeloglo LED's with resistors.
Again, thanks to all who posted with suggestions and examples!
Over50Do you by chance have the specific warm white LED specs you used and where you got them (and the 1K resistors)?
No I don't remember, but my minatronics don't look quite the same as Ebay China leds, so don't mix the two brands.
Over50EDIT: Never mind ... I found the Miniatronics 3mm yeloglo LED's with resistors.
I really like the Miniatronic yeloglo LEDs. IIRC, the supplied resistors with the LED 10-pk are 240- and 470-ohm. You can pick up 1K resistors from Litchfield Station, or large distributors like Digi-Key or Mouser. Litchfield offers very reasonable shipping and no minimum orders.
Plenty of room in those old Atlas/Kato RS-3s for LEDs. Gotta think outside the box and cut off a good chunk of those light pipes.
The way they ORIGINALLY came they didn't even have directional lighting, just one 12V bulb in the middle. Those are the first run type. Attention to detail - there is a small bit of metal in the shell right over where the bulb was. I have close to a dozen of these, and I need more - the RS-3, besides being my favorite diesel,w as the most numberous type of first gen power on the Reading.
SO what I do it cut back the light pipes, leaving the ends for the lenses and a little extra. Some white glue, or tacky glue, will hold them in place, but first I use clear glue (like canopy cement, or Faller Xpert) to glue an LED to the end, and I also put some heat shrink around it to stabilize it and keep the light from shining out all over the place. With those two large hunks of plastic missing from the middle half or better of the loco, there's plenty of space for the resistors and the wires, and no need to really resort to teeny SMD LEDs.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.