richg1998 Hi Randy At one time the cap was only for sound. It looks like it is now for sound and motor. I have not used the newest decoders. Rich
Hi Randy
At one time the cap was only for sound.
It looks like it is now for sound and motor.
I have not used the newest decoders.
Rich
That they were, but once everyone else was doing it, SOundtraxx had to as well, and the decoders have that green and yellow striped wire which accesses the main power ground, which is what you have to use for a stay alive circuit to power both the sound and motor.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thank-you to everyone who answered.
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
Danny,
I have installed several TCS keep alives with first generation Tsunamis and econamis. They work fine.
Have fun,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Yes, other than name, they are the exact same thing - some supercapacitors wired together to support the proper voltage. The TCS keep alive would conenct the same way the Soundtraxx CurrentKeeper would connect - to the same wires, with the same polarity.
Thank-you. I've used currentkeepers in some of my previous locomotives.
But this time around, I've got a TCS KA-2 on hand instead of a Soundtraxx Currentkeeper. Given that they're from, different manufacturers, I'm asking if they can work together and if so, how?
https://www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/Installation-Guide.pdf
pg17 has the wiring diagram. Pay attention to the KA + & - connections.
CurrentKeeper Installation The TSU-1100 and ECO-100 both include an optional 220µF, 25V capacitor or may be used with a SoundTraxx CurrentKeeper to maintain performance during momentary power losses. To install a CurrentKeeper, remove the connector and trim the blue and black wires to about 3”. Strip and tin the ends of the CurrentKeeper’s wires, as well as the decoder’s blue (Function Common) and green/yellow stripe (Ground) wires. Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over each of the CurrentKeeper’s wires. Solder the blue CurrentKeeper wire to the blue decoder wire, and the black CurrentKeeper wire to the decoder’s green/yellow stripe wire. Slide the pieces of heat-shrink tubing over the connections and heat to insulate.
The keep alive doesn't connect across the red/black pickup wires but ties in to the blue + common and the black wire that goes to the existing capacitor.
This site has some stay-alive information:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
1. The Blue wire to the Blue Function Common wire and
2. The Black/White trace wire to the Black wire connecting the 220 uF Capacitor (not the Black Pick Up wire).
Tony's also has some information. The trick is to find the minus side of the decoder rectifier output to connect the stay alive minus to.
https://tonystrains.com/news/how-to-add-current-keeper-to-soundtraxx-tsunami-decoders/
The diagram shows the Soundtraxx Current Keeper but others will wire in the same way.
Hope that helps, Ed
I've got a Soundtraxx TSU-1100 decoder and a TCS KA-2 keepalive on hand, and I would like to use the two of them together. Is it as simple as connecting the KA-2 across the TSU-1100's decoder connections, or are more modifications needed?