The tool looks a lot like the wood carving tool I used. 4 out of 4 -- I could not insert it with finger pressure. It was 14 ga wire and it was not the insulation either. Once they are together they work well.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I have crimped thousands of these and have found the insulation is usually what is holding up the insertion of the contact into the housing. Stripping a little further back helps but I am not fond of that because of corrosion that develops on the bare conductor behind the contact.
When we developed the RP for NTRAK, we found that the 12 ga landscape cable's insulation was thicker than normal. We tapered it down with an exacto knife so that the contact would slide into the housings. It is a PITA, but works quite qell. Anderson also makes removal/insertion tool that helps push the contact in. I have used a small jewelers screwdriver to push them in.
Martin Myers
Honestly, I just keep mixing and matching metal parts and plastic parts until I find a pair that works. No rhyme or reason, I guess.
That vertical plastic bar on the bottom and the curve of the contact is where things stopped moving.
A woodworking tool and an hammer solved it, but I would have thought it should require the bigger hammer theory of assembly.
I like they way you can gang them together
It is possible I suppose to crimp the wire so it is too wide to fit in the plastic, but that was not my problem
Not exactly sure what your talking about, but does this cross section show anything like what you have?
Mike.
My You Tube
There is a metal connector with a hook. The wire is crimped into the connector. That is inserted into the large end of the plastic piece with the curved part of the metal connector pointed down toward the solid plastic bar on the mouth of the connector.
What is the secret to inserting the metal connector until it seats? Mine goes in about 1/2 way and stops not engaging the metal bar in the plastic piece