I tend to conclude that a new non-brass Atlantic is most unlikely to be produced this century. So I am interested in comments on what typically available used DC locos might involve regarding conversion to DCC.
Looking at EBay, I see non-brass Roundhouse, Mantua & GHC (I think I had that one in Jr High). In brass, there are several, Westside, etc. Of course the detail varies, and might be improved. And I do not want to spend more than $150 or so.
I have done a number of conversions to DCC, mostly with diesels, some with steam, the latter getting more involved with headlight wiring, etc. I am familiar with motor isolation but unfamiliar with motor replacements so on that would need some research or specific suggestions.
I did have one attempt on an MDC Roundhouse 4-6-0 kit that did not work out because of faulty driver wheelsets (out of center hopping) so I recognize that basic quality can be an issue.
Any comments are most welcome. I would enjoy doing one of these if not of extraordinary difficulty.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
a lot of things -can- be done, but don't -need- to be done ...
must do list..
isolate motor
add decoder
-can- be done list
change motor to a can type or change to rare earth magnets
add extra power pickups
add extra weight
etcetra
It is not too hard to convert a conventional DC brass steam locomotive model to operate on DCC.
.
Remove the motor from the frame, file away as much of the brass frame as necessary, and reinstall the motor so it is electrically isolated from the frame.
Then run a wire from the locomotive frame into the tender shell where the DCC decoder will be installed. Your two track inputs to the DCC decoder will be the tender frame and the locomotive frame.
Then run one of the motor outputs from the DCC decoder to the motor wire that previously attached to the tender lead, and the other decoder output to the motor frame.
If you want lights and sound, that will be a lot more work.
My best running steam locomotives are from Samhongsa and were imported in the late 1980s. Both Key and Sunset imported these models.
These are very rugged and well made, but a bit light on detail by modern standards. They are not very desirable amongst collectors, so price is not excessive.
I would install the decoder when the locomotive is already apart for painting.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I assembled a Roundhouse 4-4-2 a few years back. The one without the valve gear. It was easy, and I changed the motor without difficulty. Silicone caulk works well to attach the new motor on the frame. The motor is easier to install if you build an angled plastic seating. You will need to remove the worm gear from the original motor and install it on the new one. NWSL sells all the parts online. I use CA to attach the gear on the shaft of the new motor. NWSL also sells a gear puller to remove the gear. But you can also keep the original motor. If it is the old open frame motor, you will definitely need a 1 amp decoder...
Simon
About ten years ago I did an all metal MDC Roundhouse 4-4-2. I sent it to NWSL for a new motor. The old motor needed about 1.5 amps at 12 vdc. Open frame. I did not want to mess with it.
I put in SoundTraxx Tsunami in the tender.
Also, NWSL has the gear set for MDC locos. 45 to 1 and 72 to 1. An intermediate gear set allows for the motor to be horizontal.
I did a couple other locos brands this way. Nice feature. The motor is not available from Athearn anymore. It was a small open frame with skewed armature and flywheel. Quite nice. I have some Athearn Roundhouse locos with this motor.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I have converted several Bowser, MDC/Roundhouse, and Mantua steam locomotives to DCC. Motors do not need to be replaced. I have upgraded the motors with supermagnets, but that is not necessary. The brushes must be isolated, however. Bowser has a replacement brush plate made out of fiberboard:
Other brands I use insulation between the "springs" and the brushes.
Most kits pick up power from the right rail through the loco frame, and from the left through the tender frame. Red wire is tied to the frame, and black wire to the tender frame. Orange and gray I solder right to the motor brushes. There are three wires running to the loco. I use .1" connectors so I can separate the loco and tender, so I wire the red lead in the middle so I can't screw it up, and orange and gray on the outside. If the loco runs backwards I just reverse.
Gary
Thanks, all, for the explanation and suggestions! I will look closer at options to see which one I want to watch for availability. I do have a definite preference for a 4-4-2 with valve gear, since that was pointed out.