In the end I got a 40 watt Weller medium duty pencil iron from Amazon. I did what I needed to do finish soldering in the switch for my programming test track. One thing I learned is that it does make a difference replacing a 25 watt iron with a 40 watt iron.
Seems perfect for the small amount of soldering I do.
Joe Staten Island West
Just don't try to solder electronics with it!
Lots of peopel rave about resistance soldering outfits, but I don;t build brass models and I've never had a problem solding track joints or even rail to PCB ties with my Xytronic. And mine's only rated for 40 watts, the replacement model that's closest to mine is a 60 watt element, so it should be even better.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
though costly i would look at a restance soldering unit with a clamp style handle and also a carbon holder handle.
joe323I need to buy a new soldering iron for general use around the layout and workbench. Not sure how many watts I need. Any thoughts?
A lot depends on what you're soldering, but most of the replies so far are for fairly low-wattage, good for layout wiring and small details.I have soldering irons in wattages of 25, 40, 60, 80, 100, and 200, and, for bigger jobs, a propane torch.
While the torch is mostly for plumbing jobs, it was the only choice when this locomotive...
...got a new cab...
The cab is comprised of brass castings, so the torch was the only thing that could put out enough heat to solder the cab together (I pre-tinned all of the pieces, then assembled them, using wire to hold everything together and in place, followed-up by heating the assembly until the solder melted). The torch was also used to solder the cab to the locomotive, using lots of heat sinks.
Soldering isn't one of my better-developed skills, but I can get by.
Wayne
I have a couple of the 35w variety, kind of like what Ed posted. That's enough for me.
Mike.
My You Tube
Randy Rinker recommended an earlier version of the this Xytronics station a couple years ago. I got one, I am happy, just ordered a chisel tip for it.
https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/by-manufacturer/xytronic/lf-399d/xytronic-lf-399d-mini-type-80-watt-soldering-station/
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
tstageI went with and would definitely suggest a solder station (vs just a soldering iron) for good, general-purpose soldering around your layout.
When I'm on my back or rolling around on a creeper/stool under the layout, having a simple pencil iron is much less restricting than having all the hardware to deal with. Same thing when I have to solder something in a scenicked area on top of the layout and there simply isn't any place to set that box down. A small, lightweight pencil iron does just fine. Sometimes I route the cord over my shoulder so I don't snag any signals or line poles.
I agree that having a lab-quality station is a plus but if I only have one soldering iron, the simple pencil covers the most territory. OP asked about wattage and the 35 seemed to be pretty versatile in my experience.
Works for me, anyway.
Happy Modeling, Ed
Joe,
I went with and would definitely suggest a solder station (vs just a soldering iron) for good, general-purpose soldering around your layout. I have and have been very happy with my 60W Weller WESD51 station, which is ESD safe for fine electronic soldering:
Expect to pay at least $100+ for a good, temperature-controlled soldering station. XYtronic would be the acception and Randy (rrinker) and a few other forum members have really liked their quality for the price.
I would also highly recommend purchase one of those brass-wool soldering pads for cleaning your soldering tips. They're inexpensive, last a long time, and you don't have to keep them damp with water - like you do with a sponge.
Whatever brand you end up getting, Joe, make sure it comes with replaceable, plated soldering tips. I've had my wedge-shaped tip for years and it's still nice and shiny with no pits. That may have something to do only leaving the soldering iron turned on when I'm actually soldering and habitually turning it off if I'm not going to solder in the next 5 mins or so. If the latter - or storing it away for later use, I always melt a blob of solder at the tip to protect the plating from oxidizing.
And, unless I'm soldering track, I generally keep the temperature of my soldering tip in the 650-700F range. You'll get an exponential increase of oxidation on your tip if you keep it up above 800F.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have used the Weller WLC-100 40 watt soldering station for some years. It came with a wedge tip but I also ordered a fine tip conical tip for PC board work. I use to do a lot of electronic projects at one time You can easily find it on line.
The station has an adjustment for heat. The tips are plated. No filling of tips. That went out many years ago. Once in a while a few still talk about that.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I bought one of these 35W. Wellers many years ago (1995 maybe) I used it for just about every track feeder, rail joint and wire joint up to about 14 gauge.
https://www.newark.com/weller/wp35/temperature-controlled-soldering/dp/34F1023
You can shop around for a better price. Been so long I forgot what I paid, but it was worth it.
I replaced the original line-cord with a very flexible, longer cord that I had on hand as I wanted a long cord without the plug interfering while working on track work.
I've since bought a bench-top soldering station for the shop work but this old Weller is still my go-to for layout "field" work. 35 watts seems to be a nice compromise, not too hot, not too cold.
Good Luck, Ed
I need to buy a new soldering iron for general use around the layout and workbench. Not sure how many watts I need. Any thoughts?