I've damaged a couple by overheating them while soldering, but I've only had one actual failure. I use a small, variable heat iron with a fine tip point.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
On my last shelf layout, I used the Miniatronics mini-toggles for turnout control and that were also hooked up to LEDs on the panel for turnout direction indicators. They're a quality product and work so well that I've decided to re-use them for my next layout. As other members have said, using a heat sink is a must. I use an alligator clip and that gets the job done for me without any problems.
Russ
Modeling the early '50s Erie in Paterson, NJ. Here's the link to my railroad postcard collection: https://railroadpostcards.blogspot.com/
I have over 100 mini-toggle switches on various control panels on my layout.
They are all Miniatronics, and some are now 15 years old. I have never had even one failure.
Rich
Alton Junction
I have been using MiniaTronic and Radio Shack miniature switches not subminiature for switches a good fifteen or more years, maybe many more years, I'm getting old. I do not remember when the last time one failed. I'd bet the venders have no idea where the products that they are selling really come from. In this day and age and quality of electronics, test the switch before install, replace as needed. Until I have a MiniaTronic switch fail out of the gate I will not buy elsewhere. How hot is your soldering gun? But I also have not bought a switch in the past year so I'm not sure of the quality anymore. Be sure you have clean wire and terminals, a little flux for electrical work, get the iron on and off the work as quickly as you can make the connection. I do not remember ever using a heat sink on my switch/wire connection. You guys that are melting your so called ''plastic'' switches, I don't see how. I just tried a test. The miniature switches I use do not melt with a 100 watt iron placed against the blue or red case. I made the connections with the 100w iron (I DO NOT RECOMEND USING A 100W IRON EVER ON THESE SWITCHES). Then I opened the switch case and tried to melt the inside rod/rocker tip, nothing happen. Reassembled the switch and it still works. Maybe there is sub quality products on the market now a days. I think you should use a heat sink as mentioned above by RR-mel and gmpullman. I do read that you soldered using mini and not sub-miniature. Maybe the sub-miniatures are made of a lowtemp plastic. My miniature's caseing will break before melting, if it will ever melt. If I ever use sub-miniatures I will be sure to use a heat sink.
Edit: If I repeat what is posted above, the above two replys where not posted when I started my reply. Something went wrong, the wheel kept turning and then "This page can't be displayed, website is not responding'' so I left the site and came back and my reply was here.
The first couple ones I messed with (these were sub-miniature toggles) I got the solder joint too hot and probably distorted the plastic. After a little practice, and using a heat-sink, I was OK with them and never had any more trouble.
Are yours soldered?
Also I have had a few in-series LEDs go bad. These were usually bi-color ones used with a Tortoise. The surplus LEDs we get at our end of the supply chain are not always "first-quality" and I've had a few go bad.
When that happens in series with the Tortoise supply you will not get current in one direction.
Good Luck, Ed
About a month ago, I installed nine new toggle switches on my control panel for Tortoise control of Shinohara turnouts. Each is also wired to two LEDS, one for indicating mainline direction, the other for the divergent route. All the wiring is securely soldered to the poles of the switches and to the other related wiring.
Recently - and after having operated flawlessly for several weeks - one switch began moving the turnout only for the mainline route and lighting up the respective LED. When toggled to the divergent route, nothing happens. No movement, no LED.
For another switch - which I replaced after the first one didn't work at all - I have to jiiggle the toggle handle just a bit to get it to move the turnout to the mainline route and for its LED to light up. It works fine for the divergent route.
I bought most of these switches from All Electronics, others from Megatone Electronics, an eBay store. On a previous layout I used Minatronics switches for three years or more and never had a problem.
I'm hoping I don't have to remove them and re-install Minatronics switches, but will depending on the feedback I get from the collective brain trust out there.
Update: Just before sending this, I decided to take another stab at that inoperative switch. When I flipped the toggle, the mainline LED lit up (the turnout was already pointing in that direction), but it still did not work for the divergent route. Until, that is, I pressed down vertically on the toggle handle and - voila! Turnout movement and a lighted LED. I've tried it several times now, and it's still going strong. But for how long?
Are these switches then just of inferior quality, leading to the internal contact mechanism failing to make physical contact with the respective pole and, thus, the absence of electrical flow?
How common - or uncommon - is this problem? A bad batch? Maybe. Likely not though. And are Minatronics simply that much better than the ones I am using?
Kerry