Islandrail ....................but will check out the gears etc. And see if I can make it run.
....................but will check out the gears etc. And see if I can make it run.
When converting to DCC, that's important. If a loco doens't run on DC, converting it to DCC won't make it run. Also, a poor performing loco on DC, may be even worse on DCC.
Terry
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
Big daddy that is the exact board I am seeing. Now I know it isn’t DCC. Thank you and thanks to all who have been helping. I paid nothing for this loco but will check out the gears etc. And see if I can make it run.
mbinsewiThe loco you show, so your supposed to cut where the X is, and then solder the decoder to the pads on the board? If you did it that way, the board probably doesn't support LED's, without a resistor, just that bulb.
That was a LL GP7 although the board says GP9 and you are correct. Adding a resisitor to an LED is not a major problem. I cut leads on both short and solder the remaining leads side to side with helping hands to hold them next to one another.
In this case, I took out the whole board.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy Terry I wasn't calling anyone out, just offering a belated welcome.
Terry I wasn't calling anyone out, just offering a belated welcome.
Wasn't offended, no harm no foul.
I did miss his second message that it would not run on a DC layout.
I did see a RS11 on the TCS decoder site install but not quite like his loco and has light bulbs.
Better to rip it out if he is new to DCC. Just follow the NMRA specs. Only seven wires. I did it some years ago.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
So thats where the 255 is coming from. An error message.
The loco you show, so your supposed to cut where the X is, and then solder the decoder to the pads on the board?
If you did it that way, the board probably doesn't support LED's, without a resistor, just that bulb.
Just wondering.
If thats the case, no wonder it's easier to rip it out and hardwire the decoder.
Mike.
My You Tube
Rich, don't know about that, he said it would not run on a DC layout.
According to the NCE zendesk
2. When trying to read a decoder and you get a manufacturer ID of 255 and / or multiple readings of 255 from the decoder for other CVs too, that is an error message.
Just for grins, I put my DC 44 tonner on the DCC track, it immediately has a high pitched buzz, which softens when I switch to program track. It reads manufacturer 255. No decoder is in this engine. However mine runs on DC. The OP's does not.
Islandrail Some Ebay locos are advertised as running and some are advertised as "not tested" If you purchased this as a running engine or a DCC engine, you have a valid complaint and should at least ask for some money back, if not a return.
Very nice.
If he could connect a nine volt battery to the tracks it probably would run.
Islandrail this is what a not DCC ready Lifelike circuit board looks like; there is no plug. Rather than cutting the X and soldering a decoder to that board, all of us would take the board out and solder directly to the wires.
Gear problems were common in Lifelike locos and there are Athearn gears that are a direct replacement. Replacement is not at all difficult. I don't know the part number off hand but there have been lots of threads on it.
If cracked gears are your problem, I would replace those, then try it on DC. The rule of thumb is a loco that runs bad in DC, runs bad in DCC.
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Islandrail Thanks for all replies. I cannot Post a pic at this time but the motor has a small board on top with four wires coming out each end going to lights and motor etc. When I try programming it it shows short address 255 and I put cab number in for long address. Would this indicate a decoder? I do know this motor did not operate on a dc only layout. Thanks for all help so far
Thanks for all replies. I cannot Post a pic at this time but the motor has a small board on top with four wires coming out each end going to lights and motor etc. When I try programming it it shows short address 255 and I put cab number in for long address. Would this indicate a decoder? I do know this motor did not operate on a dc only layout. Thanks for all help so far
The top of the Model Railroader General Discussion forum tells you how to post a photo but you do not have a decoder in the loco. Below might be how it would look if a decoder is in.
http://www.digitrax.com/products/mobile-decoders/dz126ps/
Some decoders are quite small, about the size of a PC board and plug in to the eight pin socket.
Some locos have a nine pin socket.
Definitely not a decoder in that loco. If it didn't run on DC, you have TWO problems - one is no decoder, two there is a wiring or motor problem that keeps it from running on DC. Or jam in the drivetrain that is keeping the motor from turning, since if it buzzes on DCC then the power is getting to the motor.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BigDaddy Nobody gonna say to the forum?
Nobody gonna say to the forum?
Sorry, I replied from my obsolete iPhone 5s and doesn't show the persons number of posts or when they became a member. Usually I see that on a desktop.
there, feel better
Thank you for the replies so far. I don’t know for sure that is had a decoder or not. I do know this particular engine wouldn’t operate on a dc layout. It has a small board atop the motor with four connections coming out each end going to lights and motor etc. When I go to program with the nce it shows a decoder of 255. I assume this means it’s a decoder but again I am new to this and this particular loco came with no information. Thanks
Welcome.
I have the Power Cab. Sounds like no decoder and the DC adapter is plugged in. The AC component in the DCC signal is buzzing the motor. The Power Cab cannot run a DC loco.
It may have what is called a dummy plug. If you aren't sure, take a picture and post it. Posting pictures aren't straight forward in this forum, there is a sticky on how to do it.
Buzzing can also be a sign of broken gears and a motor that won't turn.
Buzzing noise is clue the locomotive is not decoder equipped.
Islandrail, If information with locomotive indicates it is DCC Ready, then it is DC and cannot be run with DCC, yet. You need to install a DCC decoder
DCC Ready is short for DCC decoder installation ready.
Aside.
NCE Power Cab cannot run a DC locomotive using address 00. It does not support Zero Bit Stretching.
An address of three would be entered as 3 not 03. Leading zeros not to be used for two digit address in NCE DCC systems. That is a Digitrax thing.
RR Baron
PennCentral99thanks, I'm not familiar with Powercab. I still think we need to verify if the loco even has a decoder.
I agree. P2K's are DCC ready, take the hood offand see if one has been installed.
maxman PennCentral99 Try running the loco under address "00" and see what happens. I don't believe that you can do this with a PowerCab.
PennCentral99 Try running the loco under address "00" and see what happens.
I don't believe that you can do this with a PowerCab.
thanks, I'm not familiar with Powercab. I still think we need to verify if the loco even has a decoder.
The "Lifelike RS18" isn't important. What's under the hood matters. If it has a decoder, what brand?
PennCentral99Try running the loco under address "00" and see what happens.
Islandrail "older life like rs18"
"older life like rs18"
are you sure the loco has a decoder? Try running the loco under address "00" and see what happens.
if you think it has a decoder, try resetting it and run it on address "03"
New to DCC and have received an older life like rs18. I have a nce power cab and programmed loco but all I get is both lights staying on and buzzing noise. It will not respond to any commands. Any suggestions to what I can do or might be doing wrong? Thanks