I recently detected that the points on some of my Atlas custom line #6 turnouts are not getting power & the DCC signal to the points. When using an un-powered frog, and the points are dead, engines of just the right wheel base will die on the turnout. Since I run only four axial trucks this becomes more of a problem. In the picture you can see that the points are powered through a small eyelet and metal pad that is suppose to touch the closure rails, or through the end of the points touching the stock rail on the through side. Neither of these is reliable. I’m hoping to find a better, more reliable power-signal transfer method. Suggestions & solutions requested.
Capt. Brigg FranklinCEO; Pacific Cascade railway (in HO gauge)
I soldered small lengths of fine flexible wire from the point rail, around the rivet and onto the closure rail. Solved any contact troubles.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
RR_MelIt doesn’t take much, I use a ½” long #36 stranded wire on the outside for the rails at the rivet with a slight outward bend for flexing.
That must mean you have a very fine soldering tip to get to the outside of the point rail.
Could the wire run underneath the track, assuming the OP hasn't installed the turnout?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
thats what i used on atlas custom line # 6's in HO .. a small wire across the rivet before installing ..
been good for five or more years now
BigDaddy RR_Mel It doesn’t take much, I use a ½” long #36 stranded wire on the outside for the rails at the rivet with a slight outward bend for flexing. That must mean you have a very fine soldering tip to get to the outside of the point rail. Could the wire run underneath the track, assuming the OP hasn't installed the turnout?
RR_Mel It doesn’t take much, I use a ½” long #36 stranded wire on the outside for the rails at the rivet with a slight outward bend for flexing.
Does anyone know of a picture of a soldered points to closure rails? I'm a visual learner.
Here is my process ....
If your soldering skills aren't as good as Mark's, you can do this:
There are advantages and disadvantages to doing it this way.
+ Less precise soldering skills required.
+ Can be done with shakey hands.
+ No wires showing (no big deal when you look at Mark's painted jumpers).
+ Stock rails, closure rails and point rails are all connected. Only one set of feeders required (plus the frog).
- Roadbed has to be hollowed out to make clearance for the jumpers.
- Turnout has to be removed if it is already in place.
This is a Peco turnout but the Atlas turnouts can be done exactly the same way.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Capt.BriggWhere did you buy the silver conductive grease?
Mark, don't your solder tacks on the inside of the rail get in the way of wheel flanges?
Capt. Brigg
Capt.Brigg Mark, don't your solder tacks on the inside of the rail get in the way of wheel flanges? Capt. Brigg
Wheel flanges don't come anywhere near the solder point.
On Code 100 rail that shouldn't be a problem, unless you are running old Rivarossi pizza cutter wheels. Code 83, I think I'd want to solder underneath or on the outside, but the Code 83 ones don;t have a big rivet like that. I never had a problem with point contact with the Code 83 ones, and that area where it links the points, stock, and closure rail, I thoroughly covered in paint when painting the rail so none of the shiny bits showed through.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Mark are you using stranded wire like Mel? In the picture the wire appeas to be solid.
Capt.Brigg Mark are you using stranded wire like Mel? In the picture the wire appeas to be solid. Capt. Brigg
I use solid 24 guage phone wire .... that's why I put the double wave in it, so it would easily flex and never break.
I interpreted Mel's "outside the rails" as being on the opposited side Mark showed us. That's why I wanted to know what tip he used.
Thank you Mark for the great pictures. You should publish an article in MR on this wiring technique.
I have settled on your method of soldering a jumper wire from the closure rails to the switch points to assure good contact. Now I just need to do a better job of not melting the ties around the solder points. On one side I used loose stranded wire, on the other I soldered the whole wire. I like the second way better.
Capt. Brigg FranklinCEO Pacific Cascade Railway
Mark, what kind of tool do you use to get such a nice smooth curve around the rivet in the jumper wire. When I use needle point pliers, I get lots of kinks.Capt. BriggCEO; Pacific Cascade Railway
Capt.Brigg Mark, what kind of tool do you use to get such a nice smooth curve around the rivet in the jumper wire. When I use needle point pliers, I get lots of kinks.Capt. BriggCEO; Pacific Cascade Railway
I just use a tiny screw driver and just keep poking and prodding at it until it fits where I want. I find the solid wire is much easier to work with and get tucked into place.
Capt.BriggI have settled on your method of soldering a jumper wire from the closure rails to the switch points to assure good contact. Now I just need to do a better job of not melting the ties around the solder points.
Despite the fact that you melted a couple of ties a bit, I'd say you did a pretty good job! I'm sure you can avoid the melted ties with a little practice.
I generally try to solder to the outside of the rail to avoid interference with the flances, just to be conservative.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983