Hey guys, another question from the electrically challenged. Walthers Cantilever Grade Crossing Signals are LED's. So instead of using the Crossing Signal Controller 949-4359 and it's optical sensors, is it possible to hook the signal lites into a Woodland Scenics Sequencing Light Hub instead?
Sensors are what controls the signals as a train approaches. You don't get that with sequential
Sequential means that the WS lights Channel A, then Channel B, Channel C and Channel D in some sort of timed basis. The whereabouts of the train, has no bearing as to what the signals will be doing.
https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/instructions/JP5680inst.pdf
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I just put my crossing signals on a toggle switch, as sometimes I stop a train just short of the crossing, waiting for another train to clear. Just keepin it simple. Sometimes I forget to turn off the signals after the train passes. Then we call out the maintainer.
I've got my grade crossing signals controlled by Rob Paisley circuits. They work for both my Oregon Rail Supply flashers and my Tortoise based gates.
They come with photo sensors that work very well in normal light and pretty well even in dimmer light.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I should have been more specific. I don't care if the signals "sense" the proximity of the approaching train. I typically only operate a single train in that area and just want to be able to manually activate the crossing signal without having to drill holes in my ballast and install optical sensors. No gates, just the Walthers 949-4330 or 4332.
Jeff1952 I typically only operate a single train in that area and just want to be able to manually activate the crossing signal
I think that makes more sense than what what some spend to automate signals. After all, money means something, and most of us don't have too much.
The sequential hub is not what you need. It turns lights on and off, as the name says sequentially, not when you necessarily need to.
The parts you mentioned are supposed to be used with a Wathers grade crossing controller. Two things are not mentioned.
If flashing is important, and the LED's don't flash, you are going to need help from the Arduino experts.
It they do flash, or simply on is good enough, all you need is a wall wart, maybe a buck voltage regulator and a SPST switch.
The Walthers controller takes 18 v of AC input, it is not putting out 18 v nor is it putting out AC, so you need to know what voltage you need or poof go the LED's