Ah, got it! Thanks guys!
Wire in parallel to the switch motor, it's electrical, not a mechanical connection., When you throw the switch, the snap relay changes which contacts are connected. Bonus, the Snap Relay has TWO sets of contacts, not just one. So you cna power the frog AND run signals, or whatever.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I’m not sure I understand how these work in conjunction with the Peco pl10 switch machines?
TophiasSo, my question is, is there an alternative way to send signals to LED’s?
I use one to light position indicating signals. Could also use the extra contact to power the frog on an electrofrog/unifrog set-up.
Mike
I wish I had that option. Oh well, I’ll just go at it and hope for the best. If I break a clip or two and it doesn’t hold I’ll just replace it. Another $13. Hopefully not many accidents!
I've always mounted the switch machines and aux switches to the turnouts on the bench, along with all the wiring. It was very straightforward.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
[quote user="MisterBeasley"]
I agree with Randy. My Peco motors mount to the turnouts, and the aux switches mount on the underside of the motors. The connections are metal tabs, and no glue is needed.
Joe, thnx very much for that tip. Hopefully it will make an impact for me.
Randy and Mr. Beasley, I picked up a Peco PL15 aux contact switch today. It would appear (though I haven’t attempted to mount it on the layout) It attaches to the pl10 switch motor with 4 plastic tabs as you both mentioned earlier and does not require an adhesive (like CA). So my apologies for questioning your earlier responses. That said, a pl13 does require an adhesive. So I guess we are all correct, we were just referencing different Peco products. As always, thnx again.
Yes, we get under the layout and use a spray cleaner (or sometimes WD-40), with the straw, and spray into the slot that slides back and forth under the accy switch. Spray one side, then slide the nubbin to the other side and spray it.
That procedure usually takes only 5-10 seconds and lasts for many months.
Good Luck, Joe
Joe, can you spray the contacts effectively AFTER they have been installed under the layout? Like maybe contact spray applied with one of those micro diameter straw nossle that come with the can?
We've been using Peco turnouts, switches and accy switches for over 35 years on our club layout. We've had very good luck with the turnouts, as I can only remember replacing 2 in that time period. One of those was due to a river leaking epoxy on a hidden turnout. The switch motors have also been fairly robust until some of our more portly members lean into the switch panel, hold a button down and let the smoke out of the motor.
However, the accy switches have been problematic from day one. We use Wathers Goo as an adhesive, then wire wrap both ends of the accy switch to the switch motor. That holds them in place very well. We have the same issues as you with the contacts inside the switch. our solution has been to spray a cleaner inside the switch to help remove any residue that builds up on the contact strips.
Joe
Thnx for the input Randy, but I think you are confusing the mounting tabs of the switch motor (pl10) which connect it to the turnout. You definitely need some adhesive to mount the pl13’s aux contacts to the pl10 switch motor.
BigDaddy, you are correct, I was referring to trying to attach some other aux contact switch (other than a Peco pl13’s) to the pl10 switch motors.
in hindsight if I were to start from scratch I would certainly use a tortoise (by Circuitron ) or a servo product. I just don’t feel like replacing everything now, especially where the peco switch motors and turnouts work so we’ll.
i will try shooting some contact spray to see if that helps anything.
thanks for your comments, I always appreciate any help I can get
rrinkerNot sure what you mean about wiggle room to attach a different type of point motor
I read that as attaching a device other than the PL 13 to the switch motor.
All I know about Peco switch machines, I learned after reading this thread and doing some Internet research. Having revealed the depth of my expertise, it looks like the connection between the PL 13 and PL 10 is only mechanical, via the actuating bar. The sole function of the PL 13 is as a switch to control led's, in this case.
The OP's problem is the PL 13 has become unreliable.
In another forum, I found at least one unhappy camper regarding the durability of the PL 13.
I would suggest a spray of some sort of contact cleaner, deoxit, or CRC 2-26
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I don't think you are supposed to glue those on, they have little metal tabs that fold over to lock the contacts to the switch motor. So perhaps they have just shifted a bit - the relatively viloent action of the solenoid can and will break a CA bond after enough cycles.
Not sure what you mean about wiggle room to attach a different type of point motor - Tortoises and Servos mount under any material and just need a hole under the throwbar for the actuating wire to poke up. 1/2" plywood with 1/2" homasote is a fairly standard combination and requires no special handling or installation. I've used servos mounted under a total of 4" of extruded foam plus 1/4" plywood, and then cork roadbed under the track with no problems at all.
I have approximately 50 Peco turnouts powered by Peco pl10 switch motors. They have performed flawlessly (knock on wood) for 15 years+. Last year I started installing Peco pl13’s auxiliary switches on some turnouts for turnout position indication to LED’s. I glued them to the pl10 switch motors using CA. They have been secure. Now the BUT- some have become ”iffy” in regard to sending a signal to the LED’s. One lights the LED’s until a consist runs over the turnout and then the appropriate LED goes out (so no longer a proper “throw”). Two others just won’t send a signal consistently, sometimes it lights when I throw the turnout, sometimes not. In all cases the turnout performs correctly, it’s about the pl13’s having good contact to send a signal to the LED’s. So, my question is, is there an alternative way to send signals to LED’s? Or is there a way to improve the Pl13’s to make the PL 13’s make a solid contact? FYI, the switch motors (pl10’s) and Peco turnouts are mounted on the layout that is 1/2” plywood with 1/2” homosote on top, so there is little “wiggle room” to attach any other devise other than the pl13’s. Thnx all.