Help - I'm thinking of making the switch from DC to DCC on my small N Scale layout (3'x6') I don't anticipate running more than 3-4 locos at a time, and I expect to be the only operator. I know that a number of suppliers make entry level systems that would fit my needs, Here's the question - is there any advantage or disadvantage to choosing NCE over DigiTrax over MRC? Pricewise, they're all about the same. Is any one brand easier to use than the others? Also, how do I know if my Atlas locos are DCC ready?
NCE / Digitrax were the go-tos for starter systems when I got mine (NCE Powercab). I don't think MRC was in the "starter" game yet at that point (been nearly 8 years now ... wow, how time flies).
In terms of raw operation (select loco, direction, get it moving), they're all going to be identical with the exception of what you use to change speed and direction.
At the time I was looking, a LHS had both NCE and Digitrax systems on their test oval; so I got to play with both. Honestly, I preferred the feel of the Digitrax system, as it was more akin to a DC powerpack, but the somewhat 'dead-end' nature of the DCS50 and it being a big brick (as I recall, about the size of two MRC Tech IIs side-by-side) ultimately caused me to decide on the NCE system, even though at the time it was more "limited", as NCE didn't yet have anything that paralleled the Digitrax "Loconet" system (at least without buying one of their ProCab systems). Though with the release of the Smart Booster, and the USB interface, those two shortcomings don't exist anymore either.
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
Wait - did you just use "dead end" and "Digitrax" in the same sentence? How did you come to that conclusion? The heart of my system on my last layout is STILL my original DCS50 Zephyr. There are maybe one or two components Digitrax has made EVER that are not usable on a modern layout with their latest system - mainly the Loconet Adapter (LA-1 I think it was) for their earliest system. Old boosters still work witht he newest command stations, old throttle still work (I have a DT100 I use regularly).
At the time, MRC's upgrade path was "buy a whole new system", it wasn;t until the current Prodigy series that you could start with the smaller one and upgrade to the features of the bigger one (though STILL with an annoying change in the button layout of the throttle).
And at the time of the introduction of the Zephyr, NCE didn;t have a 'starter' set like the PowerCab. You went whole hog or nothing.
The Zephyr is maybe 3/4 the size of the Tech IV I have for DC testing.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
deadeye43Also, how do I know if my Atlas locos are DCC ready?
Deadeye poses a good question and since I found out how little I know about N scale DCC in another thread, I am not going to confuse him more, except to say if they are really old, like 30 years or so, they probably aren't.
I know the popular answer in HO is to just replace the circuit board, but do N scale locos come with a plug that you can just plug in a decoder if you aren't up to replacing board?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Perhaps 'dead end' was the wrong word.
The LHS owner was a Digitrax guy, and I was strongly leaning that way, but I honestly couldn't get over the thinking that if/when I started adding things to my little switching layout, the DCS50 would ultimately find itself unused, due to being all-in-one, although looking back, I suppose if I had gotten it, and if I had ever expanded it could've found itself relegated to program / test track use instead of "unused".
DCC systems are all built so well and operate so well that it's like choosing between a Toyota, a Honda, and a Mazda. Close your eyes, pick one, and then learn how to drive what you done picked. I chose Digitrax and haven't looked back. Did I have a learning curve? Uuuhh..yeah. Does a new user of gimp have to do some learning? Uhhh...yeah. Does someone who wants to open a loco and install his own decoder have some learning to do? Uhhh...
If there is a train store or a MR show near you, you ought to hold each system in your hand (except the zephyr) and see how it feels to you.
deadeye43 Help - I'm thinking of making the switch from DC to DCC on my small N Scale layout (3'x6') I don't anticipate running more than 3-4 locos at a time, and I expect to be the only operator. I know that a number of suppliers make entry level systems that would fit my needs, Here's the question - is there any advantage or disadvantage to choosing NCE over DigiTrax over MRC? Pricewise, they're all about the same. Is any one brand easier to use than the others? Also, how do I know if my Atlas locos are DCC ready?
deadeye,
Both Digitrax and NCE make very good starter systems (i.e. Zephyr and Power Cab, respectively) and everyone has their opinion/preference. MRC came a little later to the party with their Prodigy Express but it has it's followers, as well.
"Easier" is a somewhat subject term. I prefer to use the word "intuitive". I've operated with Digitrax and Power Cab throttles and I find the Power Cab much more intuitive to use and program with.
As others have suggested, your best plan for choosing a DCC system that is right for you is to find an LHS that sells them so that you can get "hands-on" experience operating one. If you are interested in a somewhat dated review of the Power Cab and/or some of its excessories, click on the signature link at the bottom of my post and go to the Reviews page on my website.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Hello all,
I too converted my 4'x8' pike from DC to DCC.
The system I chose is truly a dead-end system.
Had I to do it over again I would have chosen the NCE system.
The main reason for my original choice was the wireless/infrared throttle(s). I added a 5 amp booster, and other than more throttles, as the saying goes "That's all folks!"
I'm a lone wolf modeler so using a system that is compatible with others layouts and/or club is not a concern.
This system works for me, but I do regret not going with NCE.
Hope this helps.
Post Script: Prior to converting to DCC all my turnouts were DC powered through a wall and Capacitive Discharge Units. I Kept the turnouts all DC and just converted the control to DCC. H.T.H.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I picked up a new, never used Bachman DCC system at a MR Flea Market, for $25. To be fair, the OEM is Lenz, but $25 is about what it is worth. I just got it for use testing decoders on a test track, because beyond simple operations, it is a dead end.
I'll stick with Digitrax for the layout.
Larry Puckett's website - The DCC Guy - may be helpful too.
https://www.dccguy.com/
Kerry
I started off with a DCS50 Zephyr but ended up switching to an NCE Powercab because I wanted the walk around capability and did NOT want to expand the Zephyr. The Zephyr is now dedicated to programming locomotives, although i am thinking of an small N scale switching layout where the Zephyr will be the power and control system. Either system will work for you. I have no familiarity with MRC
I suspect that your layout does not need to be divided into power districts, nevertheless you might want to consider the cost of a circuit breaker as part of your budget.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
deadeye --
Before you make a final decision, go to YouTube and watch a few videos on the Roco z21. All you need to do to run it is to be able to handle your smartphone or tablet. Works with iOS and Android. Runs over wifi (using its own modem). You can download the app and try it in demo mode (from the App Store or Google Play).
The "white" z21 (little "z") is all you need.
You might also try to attend a train show as the various attending module clubs are bound to use at least a few of the available systems. As previously stated, all of the current systems work quite well so the biggest variable is your physical interface with the system, mainly the throttle you hold in your hand. Some will feel good in your hand while others won't. Check the ergonomics and where the most common controls fall under your fingers. Can you read the display? Can you operate the throttle with one hand (important when you are trying to uncouple cars or shuffle paperwork during operations)? Ask the module club members if they could demonstrate the brand/model of throttle they are using and ask to hold it and possibly operate a train with it yourself (don't be shy as they are there to talk "trains"). You'll likely find that you prefer one throttle to another and that is really what it boils down to today.
Hornblower
BigDaddyI know the popular answer in HO is to just replace the circuit board, but do N scale locos come with a plug that you can just plug in a decoder if you aren't up to replacing board?
I'm in HO, not N, and have converted plenty of locos that were not DCC-ready (i.e. have did not have a plug) using "generic" decoders rather than board replacements. In fact, on my P2K GP30s, which were DCC ready, I found it easier to rip out the board and wire in my decoder, as using the existing plug left too little space to close up the shell.
Wiring up the decoder is basically a matter of identifying three sets of wires -- track pickup left and right, motor plus and minus, and lights -- then connecting them to the proper wires on the decoder (or decoder wiring harness). You also need to make sure the motor is isolated from the frame if the frame is used as ground (a simple matter of some Kapton tape). The lights may require a resistor but there are charts to tell you what you need. All of the decoders I've bot have had useful charts explaining what wire goes where. I had literally never picked up a soldering iron in anger when someone taught me to install decoders, and I've had a pretty easy time of it. I have deep-sixed a couple of decoders with bad installations, but at $12 apiece, no big deal. :)
Granted, in N you have a lot less space and may need to grind away bits of the frame to make room. That complicates things quite a bit.
Sound installations require a bit more space, and how you install the speaker dictates sound quality. THat's a bit I'm still learning about. :)
Good luck and welcome to DCC. Me, I love it. :)
In my case with a small HO layout it came down to a visit to Trainland on Long Island and I asked what DCC system they recommended for a beginner and they said NCE Powercab I went with that. I had some initial installation issues with the PCP panel mainly that its connector was too small for my 14 guage buss wire so I soldered 16 guage ends After that and mounting the PC no more issues. Have used it for about 2 years now.
Joe Staten Island West
A few years back, I needed to purchase a DCC "starter kit." I too model in n scale and this is what I learned.
Most starter kits do the same thing and will be sufficient for what you need. I went with Digitrax because I knew I would expand in the future and they have a very easy system for making this happen. I also like that Digitrax allows you to run a DC loco on its system at address "00", however, it makes the annoying buzz that we all hate and I don't imagine that being to good for the loco.
One thing I knew but did not think would matter was the fact that the Digitrax starter kit I purchased does not allow you to read back CV,s. No big deal if you are just running trains in a circle, but as I am utilizing my DCC more with programming functions and customizing speed steps, lights, sounds and so on, I find that I wish I had this feature. I do chart everything in an operations notebook and that works.
About locomotive decoders, plug and play is great, but n scale is tiny and sometimes modifications are needed. Kapton tape and a Dremel tool are your best friend. Also, shop around. Some decoders offer you more features. I bought a digitrax decoder for an H15-44 and it worked great for directional control, but the NCE version did all of that plus the special lighting features that make that loco so unique... for the same price.
Many non DCC locos can be hard wired with a soldering iron, and a little practice.
Also, I recomend an isolated programming track. It will just make your life easier down the road. Trust me.
Model railroading is progression, not perfection. Lots to learn. Good luck.
OldEngineman deadeye -- Before you make a final decision, go to YouTube and watch a few videos on the Roco z21. All you need to do to run it is to be able to handle your smartphone or tablet. Works with iOS and Android. Runs over wifi (using its own modem).
Before you make a final decision, go to YouTube and watch a few videos on the Roco z21. All you need to do to run it is to be able to handle your smartphone or tablet. Works with iOS and Android. Runs over wifi (using its own modem).
The upside to ability to use smartphone or tablet is if you already have them, it's like getting a free throttle.
The downside, which to me is major, is you have to look at the screens to see where the controls are to control the train. In otherwords, you have to take your eyes of the train to see if your finger is on the throttle part of the touch screen or something else.
If find it too easy to make mistakes or hit the wrong virtual button or whatever with touch screens and strongly prefer a "real" knob.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
tstagedeadeye, Both Digitrax and NCE make very good starter systems (i.e. Zephyr and Power Cab, respectively) and everyone has their opinion/preference. MRC came a little later to the party with their Prodigy Express but it has it's followers, as well. "Easier" is a somewhat subject term. I prefer to use the word "intuitive". I've operated with Digitrax and Power Cab throttles and I find the Power Cab much more intuitive to use and program with. As others have suggested, your best plan for choosing a DCC system that is right for you is to find an LHS that sells them so that you can get "hands-on" experience operating one.
I prefer to use the word "intuitive". I've operated with Digitrax and Power Cab throttles and I find the Power Cab much more intuitive to use and program with. As others have suggested, your best plan for choosing a DCC system that is right for you is to find an LHS that sells them so that you can get "hands-on" experience operating one.
I agree that Digitrax and NCE are both excellent systems with a large feature set.
I bought a Digitrax Chief system many years ago because my local club used it and because it seemed a better "bang for the buck" at the time when read up on Digitrax vs. NCE. I have since found that the controls are, for me, not intuitive, and every time I've gone to use it at modular meets to run trains, I have to be fed with a spoon and someone does all the consisting etc. etc. for me. I'm strongly looking at a different system for a planned future layout unless finances don't allow for it - otherwise I'll have to deal with the learning curve.
Point being, satisfy yourself that the system you buy is one that works for you.
Hello, if it helps, I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my NCE Pro Cab system. I just switched over to DCC and I have had some issues. Mostly updating the system as I define my needs. I bought a power booster so I can have a programme track etc. Over all I am super happy. Hope that helps be well, be happy.
Freelancing MCRR/NYC Northern Division - Angelo