Hi guys I been wanting to upgrade to wireless but looking at the NCE site it would cost like $219 for a wired throttle and $189 for the base station. So that would be over kill and to much for my room I think. My room is 12 by 22ft around thr room shelve layout with a lift out at the door. My current Power cab had a 7ft cable. Do they make longer cables' I think I saw that they make a 12ft and 40 ft cable. If so the 12ft would be perfect and let me get to all parts of my layout since I use caboose hand control switches. Thanks for any help.
I
Check with Litchfield Station in Avondale Arizona. You may need a bigger power pack with the longer cable.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
The supplied cable for your Power Cab needs to be plugged in all the time as the Power Cab throttle is the 'brains' of the system. Make sure any longer cable is for the Power Cab. The other cables do Not have the two power leads.
Another option is to get the USB adapter and attach a PC to your cab bus. Running JMRI on your PC and a wireless router will allow you to use your Android or iPhone as a wireless throttle.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I'm sure we discussed this before:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/271855.aspx
The socket wiring, the female end, is identical between the panel and the NCE handpiece. I mean the #1 left most pin on the socket needs to connect to the #1 left most pin on the handpiece. That means the cable is reversed, The left most wire in the cable on one end, has to be the left most wire when it gets to the other device.
You can buy the connectors, the cables and a crimper and roll your own.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Bigjim7Thanks' I just saw that their cable are not for the power cab hand unit. So I guess the supplied cable is all that can be used. Unreal that a longer cable cant be used or no one makes them. The USB and all that is a no go for me also. Thanks though.
The 6 wire FLAT cable for the Power Cab contains full track power and the wall power from the 2 amp power supply. The cable used for the Power Cab is a one of kind cable specially made thicker and heavier for this purpose. You cannot substitute ANY other type of cable. Longer cables or coiled cables are not available.
A second cab like a Cab06 CAN be added with a longer cable. You can also add a second panel for the second cab to be used in a second location. The Power Cab will still need to stay in the original panel and location using the flat cable.
So, it looks like the Cab06 could be the solution to your problem. But, that said, I use the ProCab system, and I am not that familiar with the Power Cab or the Cab06. So, someone more knowledgeable than me may want to comment on the appropriateness of the Cab06.
Rich
Alton Junction
This has been discussed before, although I haven't seen it mentioned recently. The problem is that the power goes through that cable twice in each direction:
1. Positive from the power supply to the CS in the cab;
2. Negative (return) to the power supply;
3. Rail A to the track (source and supply since it's square-wave AC);
4. Rail B to the track (also source and supply since it's square-wave AC).
For that reason, NCE had to make some design choices: How much power do we want this unit to be able to supply to the rails, how long and how flexible do we want the throttle cable to be, what is acceptable voltage drop, and how much heat from wire resistance is acceptable.
So sure, you can assemble and use a longer cable, but you risk upsetting the balance that I'm sure NCE put a considerable amount of engineering thought into.
EDIT: Rich and I must have been typing at the same time. His quote from NCE backs up my anecdotal recollection. Thanks, Rich!
Bigjim7,
I highly suggest taking a second look at the JMRI/NCE usb route, unless money isn't an issue. The NCE usb is about the cheapest usb interface on the market, and extra wireless throttles are free verses having to keep buying them to cater for more operators. Besides, JMRI offers a very simple to use programming system, which is much faster and more convienent than NCE throttles. This, or the withrottle, server, is the icing on the cake depending on how you look at it. Either way, being an NCE user myself I am glad I have not gone with the the wireless throttles.
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
If you are planning to run more than 3 sound locos at once you will need a SB5 booster (Don't ask how I know). With that installed your hand held controller can be moved from plug to plug around the layout as the booster takes over the constant controls.
Not sure what extras you need to get the wireless to attach to this system, but being able to move the hand held may satisfy your mobility needs.
Have fun,
Richard
Stevert EDIT: Rich and I must have been typing at the same time. His quote from NCE backs up my anecdotal recollection. Thanks, Rich!
Since, I gather, you already have a Powercab, you can upgrade your existing Powercab to wireless for about $80-100 plus shipping. I have upgraded both (2) of mine and am very pleased. You still need to get the wireless antenna, but then you will have true wireless capability and the cab can be taken anywhere without the need to plug it in anywhere.
You can just buy a Cab06 and plug it in to the second socket on the PowerCab Panel. No extra equipment needed. You can also use a really long cord on that one. Or hook up a standard cab bus panel on the other side of the layout - but only the Cab06 would be able to plug into that one, the PowerCab has to stay plugged in to the original panel for the system to work. Another benefit is the Cab06 can't do loco programming, so random button presses won;t result in your locos suddenly being uncontrollable because the address got changed. It's made for running trains, not doing all the other stuff (which is what the PowerCab itself is for). The PowerCab alone has plenty of power to run 2 locos at once.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
So let's try to make it a little easy for the OP. In order to go wireless with a Power Cab you would need:
SB5 Booster
RB02 Antenna
Upgrade the Power Cab to Wireless from NCE cost as of 30 days ago was $90 plus $7 shipping.
Then you can add another radio cab or non-radio cab to your system and be set. Other than the NCE upgrade directly from NCE you can find good deals on EBay or other quality online stores for the other items.
Bigjim7Darn you guys are good. Going the cab06 sounds like the cheapest and best way to go. Plus I will have 2 throttles for 2 people. The other way with upgrading the power cab to wireless and buying the wireless station and booster will be at $300. My power cab is in the middle of my layout so I get 7 foot both ways now ' leaving only about 4 feet where I have to put the cab down to reach the switches in those area's. Not worth going wireless for that. Will look into the cab06. Thanks
To me, wireless becomes essential on (1) larger layouts or (2) smaller layouts with multiple operators.
On larger layouts, tethered cabs become a real pain as the operator walks up and down the layout, removing the cable from one UTP and inserting it into another UTP.
On smaller layouts with multiple operators, say more than two, the longer the tethered cables, the greater the chance of the cables getting tangled up with one another as the multiple operators move in opposite directions.
Yes, Cab06 and Cab06P have cables, Cab06R and Cab06PR are radio versions.
Difference between the two, the Cab06 has an encoder knob, it works like the thumbwheel on the PowerCab, it doesn't just turn so far and stop. The Cab06P has a potentiometer and it works like a DC power pack, it turns somwhere around 270 degrees from a dead stop to full speed with physical stops to keep it from turning more.
I was in the same situation as OP with my old 13 x 35 foot layout. Had a switching district at each end and wanted a cab at each end.
NCE makes a 40 foot power cable. I connected one end to the right side plug of the UC panel (left side had the power cab command/throttle plugged in) and the other end to the left? side of another UC device and stapled the cord to the fascia.
I then used a Cab06 at the other end to control that district.
I then upgraded that to wireless by getting a Cab06R and the base station and antenna, and removed the 40 foot cable. No need for the SB5 since I only ran one to two locos at a time.
It has been 2 years since I had the system up, so this is from memory. I distinctly know that I never purchased the SB5 to get the Cab06R to operate and only used the standard power cab and UC panel. I believe when I went wireless, the wireless base unit was plugged into the right side of the UC panel where the 40 foot cable was.
So, IIRC, all you need to solve your problem AND go wireless for your one or two locos is the wireless base unit and the Cab06r. The Power Cab remains plugged in and is used as the "power" source and programming device, and an extra throttle for the kiddies.
You can also call or email NCE and they can confirm this.
- Douglas
Doughless I was in the same situation as OP with my old 13 x 35 foot layout. Had a switching district at each end and wanted a cab at each end. NCE makes a 40 foot power cable. I connected one end to the right side plug of the UC panel (left side had the power cab command/throttle plugged in) and the other end to the left? side of another UC device and stapled the cord to the fascia. I then used a Cab06 at the other end to control that district. I then upgraded that to wireless by getting a Cab06R and the base station and antenna, and removed the 40 foot cable. No need for the SB5 since I only ran one to two locos at a time. It has been 2 years since I had the system up, so this is from memory. I distinctly know that I never purchased the SB5 to get the Cab06R to operate and only used the standard power cab and UC panel. I believe when I went wireless, the wireless base unit was plugged into the right side of the UC panel where the 40 foot cable was. So, IIRC, all you need to solve your problem AND go wireless for your one or two locos is the wireless base unit and the Cab06r. The Power Cab remains plugged in and is used as the "power" source and programming device, and an extra throttle for the kiddies. You can also call or email NCE and they can confirm this.
NCE is very good at responding to user questions. I recommend calling, as someone typically answers the phone.
Yes, to get wireless all you need is an RB02 and a Cab06r. People at the beginning of the thread were talking about getting the radio added to the PowerCab - to use it that way you would need an SB5 and an RB02 plus have the PowerCab upgraded with radio. Much more expensive solution. And overkill if the max is 1 or 2 locos running at a time.
richhotrain NCE is very good at responding to user questions. I recommend calling, as someone typically answers the phone. Rich
rrinker Yes, to get wireless all you need is an RB02 and a Cab06r. People at the beginning of the thread were talking about getting the radio added to the PowerCab - to use it that way you would need an SB5 and an RB02 plus have the PowerCab upgraded with radio. Much more expensive solution. And overkill if the max is 1 or 2 locos running at a time. --Randy
Having done both the long cable and tethered Cab06 route, then the RB02 and Cab06r route, the wireless way is definitely worth the extra $150 (approximately) difference.