When these style came out, I started using my Harbor Freight meter. Saved a lot of guessing. At one time when I made a lot of circuits I had a meter set up at the work bench just for this purpose. The meters are cheap enough. I still have four of these meters.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Well, it can't be 1700, that's not a value in ANY standard tolerance group. 1100 is dead on for a 5% or 2%. Even though they look different, I think the first two bands are both brown. So it's brown-brown-red-gold, 1100 ohm, 5%.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BigDaddy Mark R. When in doubt, stick your meter across the leads and measure the restance. You're giving me a Homer Simpson moment doh! It measures 1100, light brown, dark brown?
Mark R. When in doubt, stick your meter across the leads and measure the restance.
You're giving me a Homer Simpson moment doh!
It measures 1100, light brown, dark brown?
1100 ohms would be brown / brown / red. Your resistor colors don't look to be the same brown on the first two bands. The meter don't lie though.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Most of the leaded resistors coming from China use colors so pale it's next to impossible to distinguish some colors from others, so I don't even try any more. When strips of them are taped together, it's easy enough to write on the tape, but once they've been pulled off, all hope is lost. I just use my meter.
BigDaddyDecade box, new to me, does that decade box have resistance built into it?
Old school decade box, with all the dials across it:
DC_test by Edmund, on Flickr
Dial in the resistance you want. There are newer, smaller ones (cheaper) like the one that uses the jumpers I linked to. It is a half-watt, there are quarter watt ones even cheaper.
I have a lab power supply and dial up 12 volts (my lighting buss) or 13 volts, most of my DCC lighting decoder outputs. I select the LED I want to use, start with the highest resistance and gow down until I get the brightness I'm looking for then match a resistor to those results.
I probably wouldn't have known about them either but since they were tossing one out at work, I grabbed it and immediately saw how handy it would be for the model railroad electronics "lab".
Cheers, Ed
I ran downstairs with a resistor in my hand looking for a meter that worked. After I found one, tested the resisitor, I went to put it back in the package and the package is gone. Retraced my steps 3 times and still no package.
Decade box, new to me, does that decade box have resistance built into it?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The metal-film resistors are the ones that get me
Against a deep blue background it is anybosy's guess what color the bands are.
An auto-range ohm meter is the way to go. Another handy tool I have is a decade box. I have a huge one I dragged home from work but recently got a handy one that uses jumpers to set the resistance.
I can "fine-tune" the resistance I want, or the brightness of an LED I'm looking for.
https://tinyurl.com/ycsjyqv6
Good Luck, Ed
Mark R.When in doubt, stick your meter across the leads and measure the restance.
Look like brown / violet / red to me .... 1700 ohms. The gold indicates a 5% tolerance.
When in doubt, stick your meter across the leads and measure the restance.
Resistors have bands, that indicate their ratings. I can find the charts, my problem is I can't tell what colors I am seeing.
From right to left I see gold, red, maroon and brown, except maroon isn't a real choice. Maybe it's brown and orange?
Help me out, thanks