Thank you all for the help.
I started some of the wiring and this is how I decided to do it:
My digitrax DCS51 located in the middle, with two wires leading from it to a terminal strip in the middle of layout. Then have a bus line from the terminal strip to power the main loop, and then another bus line that will power the central part of track on my layout. I created jumper wires to connect the two adjacent strips on my terminal strip (so that I can have the wire from the DCS51 branch out to 2 separate bus lines), I attached the bus wires with fork connectors with I crimped to the wire. I am soldering the feeders to the bus, for better conductivity and a stronger connection (I am comfortable soldering- it is easy for me and the layout is small). I am planning to isolate some of the little branches / yard lines on the track, that way I can use a toggle switch to turn it off when a loco is parked there - so it doesn't draw current. The loop is going to be open.
-Kien
My vote would be for screw terminals and crimp connectors, especially since this is your first layout. This will allow you to easily disconnect and reconnect for troubleshooting. Use jumpers to turn them into bus bars, and use one set for red, one set for black. Place strategically to avoid longer runs.
Kien I believe it is 26 ga. stranded based on fitting in wire strippers. Here is some information if needed; I used 22 gauge and 26 guage feeders to every piece of track (not relying on joiners), running DCC
They both look stranded to me. Most find solid wires preferable to attach to the track and 22 ga is more common to use than 26. Suitcase connectors come with various specs for wire sizes. 26 ga may not be one of them.
I'm guessing you chose different size wires because that is what you had on hand. I don't know if it makes a big electrical difference but wire on Ebay is relatively cheap in all sorts of colors and guages.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Kien,
1) The layout is small enough that unless you plan on adding detection for signalling, blocks really aren't necessary. A single bus around the layout should be fine, although you may want to branch off it for the trackage in the center of the loop.
2) Contrary to what some folks say, on a layout that size a closed loop track bus isn't a problem. After all, unless you insulated the joints, your track is already an electrical loop.
Someone did the actual calculations once, and you'd need a loop big enough to circle a (US) football field in order to introduce enough propagation delay to affect the DCC signal.
That said, the ideal way to wire it would be to have an unclosed loop with the Zephyr located in the middle. Personally, I would wire it with three single-ended branches coming off the centrally-located Zephyr: One going half-way around the loop in one direction, another going half-way around the loop in the other direction, and a third feeding the trackage in the center of the loop.
However, if you add a LocoNet (throttle) bus around the layout, that absolutely MUST be an open loop!
3) I have no experience with Peco turnouts so I can't help you with this one.
4) I wouldn't use suitcase connectors on a race car or an airplane, but when properly done they are fine for a layout. Soldering is bulletproof, however (again, when properly done). Pick which one works best for you.
P.S. Good to see a HS student enjoying the hobby! Good luck with your studies.
Kien:
I would suggest running wires from your power source to the centre of your layout ending at a screw terminal. Then from the terminal strip to each rail will be a feeder wire of less than 5 feet. Shorter feeder wires are better.
Dave
A single bus wire, unclosed loop should suffice for your small layout. I used 3M suitcase connectors. I have read some others have problems with the lower quality knock-offs. I have no experience with Peco Insulfrogs, but I suspect all will be well even without soldered rail joints. You can always solder the joints or add feeders if you have problems.
Dante
Hello all,
I have a few questions concerning some wiring on my layout. This is my first train layout so just want to make sure I do things properly. The layout is 7' x 3', n scale, I am embedding a picture to give an idea of its size and track amount. Also putting an image of my feeders just incase. The smaller one didn't say the size on the packaging but I believe it is 26 ga. stranded based on fitting in wire strippers. Here is some information if needed; I used 22 gauge and 26 guage feeders to every piece of track (not relying on joiners), running DCC, and am using insulfrog turnouts. All my feeders are less than 8" in length, they are all stranded wire. The layout has no reverse loops. I am a bit of a noob when it comes to the electrical work. Here are my some of my concerns:
1. I am about to install the bus wiring, for this layout should I split it into "blocks" and have the bus wires join at a screw terminal and then relay with two wires to my Digitrax Zephyr control system? Or should I just run a single bus wire for each rail along the whole layout since it is a small tabletop layout?
2. Are the bus wires for each rail supposed to form a closed loop with itself, or do they just run under the feeders and end without making a closed loop?
3. With the peco insulfrog turnouts, would you all recommend for me to do some wiring for them? I saw online that some people solder feeders to the stock and closure rails, or if I solder the rail joints then the electrical conductivity through the turnout should be strong enough, right?
4. I am planning to solder feeders to my bus wire (which is 16 ga.), is this a good idea or should I just make it easier with suitcase connectors?
Sorry for all these questions, I just don't want to mess up anything on my first layout. I'm actually a HS student so don't have the widest knowledge concerning some of this practical stuff.
Thank you all for helping,
Kien