I just need to get at the harness when you move it the engine stops any ideas?
had that happen with one of mine , it was the black wire on the motor.
dh28473 I just need to get at the harness when you move it the engine stops any ideas?
I believe the harness can be inserted in the tender. IIRC, if you pull it will come out. DC has a wiring plug that can be removed for a DCC decoder.
Or are you talking about under the boiler? In that case, Doctorwayne has a tutorial on removing the boiler.
EDIT: Had it copied somewhere. Can't find it on Big Blue:
First, disengage the boiler braces from the sides of the smokebox, then remove the long screw that goes up through the cylinder block. Disengage the lower ends of the cab handrails, and then, using a small flat screwdriver, carefully spread, from the inside, the bottom front corners of the cab, and lift off the cab. Next, squeeze the lower rear end of the boiler between your thumb and forefinger, in order to disengage the tabs that protrude through the firebox, then lift. Continue lifting the rear of the boiler until it is high enough to clear the top of the motor (this is a tight fit). Now slide the boiler forward until it clears the front of the main boiler weight, and set aside. To remove the weight/motor/idler gear unit, remove the screws from both sides of the boiler weight (above the lead driver), and the screws from the motor terminals (bottom rear area of the motor). Lift off the entire assembly, feeding the "pigtail" through the slot at the rear (the small circuit board on the end of the pigtail must be removed to obtain enough clearance).
Gary
Thanks for including that quote, Gary.
The thread is still on Big Blue, but because the website was "upgraded", the photos illustrating the rebuild (to add weight and increase the loco's pulling ability) are in reverse order, so the captions and dialogue don't match the photos.
All of my threads there with attached photos suffered the same problem, and I've fixed only a couple of them, as it's a time-consuming process.
EDIT: For the benefit of dh2847, I'll re-build that thread, and when it's done, post a link to it in this thread. If you get your Mike running, dh2847, you may want to read of how I made mine into decent pullers.
Wayne
doctorwayne Thanks for including that quote, Gary. The thread is still on Big Blue, but because the website was "upgraded", the photos illustrating the rebuild (to add weight and increase the loco's pulling ability) are in reverse order, so the captions and dialogue don't match the photos. All of my threads there with attached photos suffered the same problem, and I've fixed only a couple of them, as it's a time-consuming process. Wayne
I searched for the thread on Big Blue but couldn't find it.
I copied the instructions from the old Zealot forum...
Hah! I went to re-build that thread, and noticed that the data for the photos was still listed in the proper order, so all I had to do was erase the code numbers within the text (which represented the wrong photos) and replace them with ones from the ordered list....only five minutes-or-so to replace all 20 photos.Here's a LINK to the thread, which contains the info about that pigtail, which Gary quoted, and photos and the procedure for improving the pulling power of those otherwise nice-running original Genesis steamers.
Sorry, but my link mentions the "pigtail" only once, and notes that I removed it completely. My layout is DC only, so I was able to re-wire the locomotive in a simpler manner, and also added power pick-ups to the tender for more reliable operation.I also removed the wiring for the headlights: I don't do any "night running" on my late '30s-era layout, and in those days, headlights were not required during daylight hours.Perhaps a DCC operator who has this locomotive can explain the yellow wire's purpose.